And I realized there was no "stop" I screwed it out about 3.5-4 turns ccw then started working it back in cw from there. I did what was stated put it in wood and turned it cw till it cleaned up but after I checked it and it was only out about a half turn from all the way in. I don't know maybe I'm over thinking something it runs good and seems to be cutting good. I was just trying to get the most out of it I can and learn along the way. I don't feel I did any harm at this point.. but the more I can learn and the better I can get it to run and maybe not run as hot(to lean) and last longer because if it is fine by me. Sorry for any confusion and thanks for all the help
Thoughts on echo chainsaw
- Thread starter Smock2015
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Jon1270
Minister of Fire
As long as it still four-strokes / sounds rougher when you're revving it *out* of the wood, i.e. when running WOT without a load, then you're probably fine. You don't want it to run "clean" when it's not under load, and you also don't want it to clean up under minimal load, i.e. when you're cutting very small stuff. The four-stroking should only go away when you're making a fairly heavy cut.
jatoxico
Minister of Fire
I don't want to keep adding new thoughts, it will just get confusing if everyone is talking at once.
Suggest now that you have the limiters off and are starting to "get it" that you watch and re-watch the videos and read and re-read the info you have and it will all make more and more sense.
One other note is always count your turns on the screws. So you might want to turn the H side in from your current setting while counting until it stops (gently). Then return it to the setting. I would guess if you're in the ballpark it will be 2-2.5 turns out or so.
Suggest now that you have the limiters off and are starting to "get it" that you watch and re-watch the videos and read and re-read the info you have and it will all make more and more sense.
One other note is always count your turns on the screws. So you might want to turn the H side in from your current setting while counting until it stops (gently). Then return it to the setting. I would guess if you're in the ballpark it will be 2-2.5 turns out or so.
Timberwolf530
Member
I don't want to rain on this parade, but if I were you, I would not use that saw again until I took it to a dealer and had them tune it for me. No offense, but you obviously don't know what you're doing with tuning a saw. Since two cycle engines rely on the oil mixed into the gas to lubricate them properly, if you're not getting enough gas, you're not getting enough oil, and bad things happen if that's the case. Modding is great if you know what you're doing......and you're willing to void your warranty, which you've already done by altering your caps. I mod all my saws, BUT I run 10 -12 tanks through them first to make sure there are no defects. If there is a defect, and I've modded it, I'm screwed. Just have a dealer to get it running right, and learn how to use it, then start modding it. The CS590 is a nice saw, and you'll be happy with it as it is. If you get the mod bug AFTER you know how to tune properly, then have at it. If you just have to learn right now, buy an old junk saw and practice on that. If you screw it up, who cares.
Jon1270
Minister of Fire
Tuning a saw too lean causes problems because it drives combustion temps high enough to melt the piston, not because of lack of lubrication.
Timberwolf530
Member
I stand corrected, though I've always heard it's both. The bottom line is that a novice user is messing with something he's not familiar with, and there's a good chance he's going to ruin it if he's not careful. It's great to be enthusiastic about something new, until you wreck it and find out you voided your warranty in the process.
jatoxico
Minister of Fire
Personally I'm comfortable doing it but what Timberwolf said is a good thing to keep in mind. If I find that any adjustment is grossly different than what the manual says I'm real careful until I'm sure. Two turns out as a starting point should be pretty safe. After running for a bit and making a cut or two check the plug for color. Tan=good, white =bad.
sportbikerider78
Minister of Fire
Lean...quite lean.
You want it dry...a little brown ok. Any deposits, short term is an issue.
Better to run slightly rich than to run slightly lean. Plugs are cheap and it takes a while to fould them. Even when I run mine a little rich, I get a year (20 tanks of fuel) to foul a plug. .
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You want it dry...a little brown ok. Any deposits, short term is an issue.
Better to run slightly rich than to run slightly lean. Plugs are cheap and it takes a while to fould them. Even when I run mine a little rich, I get a year (20 tanks of fuel) to foul a plug. .
jatoxico
Minister of Fire
^^^ Zactly. White is too lean and if you have any doubt you're better to run a bit rich. Even more so while breaking in a new saw.
Looking at the plug is a good confirmation of what your ear and feel in the cut is telling you. I'm sure more better tech's don't need to but I like to check the plug as I go along since I'm not that expert.
Looking at the plug is a good confirmation of what your ear and feel in the cut is telling you. I'm sure more better tech's don't need to but I like to check the plug as I go along since I'm not that expert.
sportbikerider78
Minister of Fire
Worst case you blow it up and you're out $100. Then you learn how to rebuild the engine. Another valuable skill. 
There are other forums where people have much more experience doing this, and do it to every echo they get.
Just saying
Just saying
A too lean condition can and will cause damage however it's probably going to take a fairly sustained use at a relatively lean condition to do so.
If your saw is running so lean that it will cause damage within a quick time frame, your going to notice it immediately. The saw will have no power in the cut. It will bog under heavy load and it should be obvious something's wrong within minutes. A slightly lean condition, from poor tuning or perhaps a small air leak, will take a fair bit of time to cause damage. Your plug condition should give you some good direction.
Back when I rode 2 stroke dirt bikes we would keep jet kits with fatter or leaner carb jets for tuning in the tool box. That's how we tuned by changing the jet. Motocross races were sometimes 20 minutes. Plenty of times it would seem a 2 stroke motocrosser ( worth way more than a saw ) was running way too lean, but I always kept riding / racing for the next 20 minutes. Never had a motor blow up from being too lean. But it can happen but you would have to ignore some fairly obvious warning signs ( no power, bogging under heavy load, etc )
My point is don't worry about it. Just get it tuned correctly. If your not sure how to tune the saw seek help and ask them to show you how so next time you can do it yourself. If it's severely lean that it's gonna cause immediate damage you will know as soon as you put the saw to wood. It will have very little power.
Just my 2 cents and gut instincts.
If your saw is running so lean that it will cause damage within a quick time frame, your going to notice it immediately. The saw will have no power in the cut. It will bog under heavy load and it should be obvious something's wrong within minutes. A slightly lean condition, from poor tuning or perhaps a small air leak, will take a fair bit of time to cause damage. Your plug condition should give you some good direction.
Back when I rode 2 stroke dirt bikes we would keep jet kits with fatter or leaner carb jets for tuning in the tool box. That's how we tuned by changing the jet. Motocross races were sometimes 20 minutes. Plenty of times it would seem a 2 stroke motocrosser ( worth way more than a saw ) was running way too lean, but I always kept riding / racing for the next 20 minutes. Never had a motor blow up from being too lean. But it can happen but you would have to ignore some fairly obvious warning signs ( no power, bogging under heavy load, etc )
My point is don't worry about it. Just get it tuned correctly. If your not sure how to tune the saw seek help and ask them to show you how so next time you can do it yourself. If it's severely lean that it's gonna cause immediate damage you will know as soon as you put the saw to wood. It will have very little power.
Just my 2 cents and gut instincts.
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I think with all the information I've gathered I can comfortably tune my saw. I feel I can find the line between too lean and too rich and just a little more to the rich side.. and if I feel at any point that it isn't right I can accept defeat and will take it to be done before it gets to a point of destruction. Thanks again
Don't want to rain on the parade but I would of waited on any mods. I believe your warranty is now void if you would happen to have a catastrophic failure. I held off 3 years before I messed with my 341.
The muffler mod for a 490 is nothing, remove two screws that hold the spark screen, under the screen is a plate with a tiny tube in it. Remove the plate, reinstall the screen and deflector.
Cut the limiters and retune
https://store.chainsawr.com/blogs/tuning-and-repairs/1126042-adjustment-and-tuning-of-a-chainsaw-carburetor
I love my modded 490, I use it for the small stuff, and sometimes to finish up if my 590 runs out of gas or needs to be sharpened for the last few cuts.
Cut the limiters and retune
https://store.chainsawr.com/blogs/tuning-and-repairs/1126042-adjustment-and-tuning-of-a-chainsaw-carburetor
I love my modded 490, I use it for the small stuff, and sometimes to finish up if my 590 runs out of gas or needs to be sharpened for the last few cuts.
Agreed. It's like they intended for you to muff mod it. The external deflector/baffle is even perforated where you can dremel it.
