Think this wood will be ready for winter burning?

[brenndatomu]

Open fireplace, recreational burning, if that means anything.

That does help a little...at least you won't be fighting the stove to make heat with wet wood (doesn't work well) but you still don't want to burn wood much over 20% MC...it will cause more smoke, and creosote buildup in the chimney.
Water doesn't burn, it puts fires out...think of it this way, if you put 40lbs of wood in the FP, (admittedly a good size fire) and the wood is 20% MC, that means there is about 8 lbs of water in there...or almost a gallon!
Look for some soft maple to cut/split/stack (CSS) ash, poplar, boxelder, pine, cherry, even beech dries fairly fast. CSS it right away, split it smaller if you want it for this winter, and top cover as has been discussed...then keep going, get next years wood CSS'd too.
Oak is probably the slowest drying common firewood there is! (its a grain structure thing)

 

[spudman99]

I doubt your wood will be ready this winter. This past Saturday I bucked a few 42" rounds from a Pin Oak that I had cut down last year. So it was on the ground full sun for 1 year, but that really does not do much for a big truck.

For kicks I tested the wood freshly spit, registered 46% and smelled like the telltale horse piss. Sometime in October last year I tested the very same wood that had 7 months of fully covered, cut and split seasoning in full sun. It was just about 33% on a fresh split at room temp. I am not that far away from you so my results can be relevant. Minimum 2 years is my recommendation for the oak.

Here is a pic of my wood rack. Costs about $30 to hold 1 cord. 2 years later and still going strong.

 

[Marconis]

I doubt your wood will be ready this winter. This past Saturday I bucked a few 42" rounds from a Pin Oak that I had cut down last year. So it was on the ground full sun for 1 year, but that really does not do much for a big truck.

For kicks I tested the wood freshly spit, registered 46% and smelled like the telltale horse piss. Sometime in October last year I tested the very same wood that had 7 months of fully covered, cut and split seasoning in full sun. It was just about 33% on a fresh split at room temp. I am not that far away from you so my results can be relevant. Minimum 2 years is my recommendation for the oak.

Here is a pic of my wood rack. Costs about $30 to hold 1 cord. 2 years later and still going strong.

View attachment 296315

Thank you! Good reference point. I’ve got close to a cord now, two faces here and one in the backyard. I’ll report back in August what the MC is because I’ll have to make a decision at that point to order some seasoned wood.

 

[Caw]

Thank you! Good reference point. I’ve got close to a cord now, two faces here and one in the backyard. I’ll report back in August what the MC is because I’ll have to make a decision at that point to order some seasoned wood.

View attachment 296380

If you're considering ordering wood I'd just pull the trigger and get it now. Most "seasoned" wood you buy isn't really seasoned. It was likely split now-ish or stored in a big pile. Giving it the summer stacked properly in your yard will up your chances of having good wood this year. Then if you don't end up using it you're ahead of the game for next year and can focus on scrounging your own. It's all about being as far ahead as you can be (without the wife yelling that you're taking up too much yard space 😉).

 

[brenndatomu]

(without the wife yelling that you're taking up too much yard space

Less yard space = less grass to mow = less $5/gall gas used in the mower and less time using said mower...win-win-win-win!
And X2 on buying the wood now 1. while its available 2. before the price goes up for the winter...and because 2022 "stuff" 😐👎

 

[Caw]

Less yard space = less grass to mow = less $5/gall gas used in the mower and less time using said mower...win-win-win-win!
And X2 on buying the wood now 1. while its available 2. before the price goes up for the winter...and because 2022 "stuff" 😐👎

Oh yeah I'm on board but I'm not the one that needs to be convinced. Sometimes it's like talking to a brick wall, you know how it is lol.

To get around this I've actually spent time clearing brush behind my stacks. I now have room for 4 additional 1 cord racks without encroaching on the yard. That'll push my capacity from 12 to 16 cords of storage which will allow me to have 4 years of wood on hand. Nothing like burning 3-4 year old bone dry oak!

 

[EbS-P]

Thank you! Good reference point. I’ve got close to a cord now, two faces here and one in the backyard. I’ll report back in August what the MC is because I’ll have to make a decision at that point to order some seasoned wood.

View attachment 296380

If you really want heat this winter and are buying wood i suggest just get a pallet of bio bricks/logs provided you can store them inside. You will start with the driest stuff thinking the rest will have more time to dry but it won’t dry enough come the end of January you will be out of dry stuff and then a cold snap I February you will be cussing at the stove. (At least that was my first winter buy extra seasoned 400+$ a cord fire wood. ).

 

[Marconis]

Unfortunately not sure I really have much more room for another rack, at least that my wife will allow - ha. I also really am not too keen on spending money on it this year considering that the price of everything else has gone through the roof. Wood ain't cheap around here when you factor in delivery. And, further, because I don't need it as a heat source I can scale back on my leisurely burns.

All that being said, I did burn a handful in our firepit with some good kindling. Once the pit got hot (and it was battling some heavy breezes), the wood actually lit fairly quickly. Lot of smoke, but nothing major. Figure it may be easier to get rolling in the fireplace. I may just consider mixing it in with some super dry kiln dried wood on occasion, and doing a top-down burn. I'm having my chimney cleaned later in the summer as well so my creosote concerns will be minimized to a degree.

I've got some thinking to do. Tell me more about these bio bricks!

 

[EbS-P]

Compressed hardwood sawdust. Usually cost more than cord wood, take up 1/2 the space but can not be left outside. BTU per pound is higher than cord wood due the near zero moisture content. I burned 10 packs my first winter. Can be a bit stubborn to light. Got my 6 pack Redstone bricks at tractors supply.

I went from recreational burning to heating with wood. Drolet 1800i insert. Now qualifys for the tax credit. Just throwing that out there. Pretty fire great heat, no smoke smell.

 

[Caw]

If cost is a concern and you're up for a good workout may I suggest investing in a chainsaw, some axes/mauls/wedges, or if you want to real luxury a splitter. Make friends with local tree guys and get logs delivered right to your driveway or yard. I get anywhere from 2-5 cords a load twice a winter usually around $100 each. Sometimes free and I just tip them they are happy to ditch the wood. Others may say no or charge more. Can't hurt to call and ask or pull over and ask tree guys working locally.

Pros:

1. Way safer than felling your own trees. Ive cut my fair share of trees but it's just too dangerous for my liking anymore. Too much can go wrong. I'll do it when necessary but otherwise I leave that to the experts. Chainsaws are extremely dangerous but with the logs on the ground it's much safer to operate.

2. Cheaper. The upfrint cost is high (see cons) but thats a one time thing and pays for itself in a year or two easily. I get a few cords of log length wood for around $100 dropped right in my driveway. Green wood delivered where I live is around $275 a cord so you can see the value. I also enjoy using local resources.

3. Great work out. Bucking, moving big rounds, splitting, and stacking will get you in shape! Especially the hands, arms, shoulders, and back. I always feel great after a month of processing. It's great stress relief and I can skip the gym.

4. You get to have your wood exactly how you like it. The right length, split size, shape, and species can be sorted for drying purposes. I like to keep the oak separate since it takes the longest by far.

5. Much less reliance in fossil fuels. Sure you're using some to operate your tools but that's peanuts compared to the fuel used to heat your home. Pairing wood burning with solar + a heat pump is the ideal scenario imo. We have it here and it's awesome.

Cons:

1. It's dangerous. A big round can weigh hundreds of lbs. Chainsaws are dangerous tools no matter how many hours you use them. Swinging an axe or operating a splitter too. You can mitigate a lot of the danger with proper preparation and education but not all of it.

2. It's time consuming, loud, and very messy. It takes me a few weeks to a month to process a load start to finish since I'm doing it between work/parenting young kids. Chainsaws are very loud. You haven't seen a mess until you've bucked 3 cords lol. I recommend a good leaf blower! Then there's the chainsaw maintenance etc. You can sharpen a chain pretty fast once you get good but it takes practice. The wife usually doesn't like this part but when she saves $600 a month on oil she gets over it fast!

3. Up front cost is high. A good chainsaw will run you a minimum of $300 but I think its worth getting a larger engine/bar model so more like $500-$600. A maul, axe, and pickeroon will run you $50 each. I'd recommend a trailer for your lawn tractor to aid moving splits, or if you don't have one, a good wheelbarrow. That'll be another $150. A splitter is $1500 new for anything worth getting (I believe in vertical hydraulics I'm not a fan of the smaller electrics). So you're looking at at least $600 to get in but more like $1000 base for good, proper tools, then add a splitter if you want.

I'm obviously a huge fan of doing it myself but I realize it's not for everyone. It's a lot of work but I did it very rewarding. Happy to share any of my experiences, as I'm sure others are too. Lots of us here DIY our wood.

 

[EatenByLimestone]

You can also scrounge. I’ve picked up a lot of free wood over the years.

 

[Caw]

You can also scrounge. I’ve picked up a lot of free wood over the years.

Do both!

 

[fbelec]

got to admit everytime i see that picture i smile.


View attachment 296427

 

[Caw]

Wood porn

 

[FTG-05]

If cost is a concern and you're up for a good workout may I suggest investing in a chainsaw, some axes/mauls/wedges, or if you want to real luxury a splitter. Make friends with local tree guys and get logs delivered right to your driveway or yard. I get anywhere from 2-5 cords a load twice a winter usually around $100 each. Sometimes free and I just tip them they are happy to ditch the wood. Others may say no or charge more. Can't hurt to call and ask or pull over and ask tree guys working locally.

Pros:

1. Way safer than felling your own trees. Ive cut my fair share of trees but it's just too dangerous for my liking anymore. Too much can go wrong. I'll do it when necessary but otherwise I leave that to the experts. Chainsaws are extremely dangerous but with the logs on the ground it's much safer to operate.

2. Cheaper. The upfrint cost is high (see cons) but thats a one time thing and pays for itself in a year or two easily. I get a few cords of log length wood for around $100 dropped right in my driveway. Green wood delivered where I live is around $275 a cord so you can see the value. I also enjoy using local resources.

3. Great work out. Bucking, moving big rounds, splitting, and stacking will get you in shape! Especially the hands, arms, shoulders, and back. I always feel great after a month of processing. It's great stress relief and I can skip the gym.

4. You get to have your wood exactly how you like it. The right length, split size, shape, and species can be sorted for drying purposes. I like to keep the oak separate since it takes the longest by far.

5. Much less reliance in fossil fuels. Sure you're using some to operate your tools but that's peanuts compared to the fuel used to heat your home. Pairing wood burning with solar + a heat pump is the ideal scenario imo. We have it here and it's awesome.

Cons:

1. It's dangerous. A big round can weigh hundreds of lbs. Chainsaws are dangerous tools no matter how many hours you use them. Swinging an axe or operating a splitter too. You can mitigate a lot of the danger with proper preparation and education but not all of it.

2. It's time consuming, loud, and very messy. It takes me a few weeks to a month to process a load start to finish since I'm doing it between work/parenting young kids. Chainsaws are very loud. You haven't seen a mess until you've bucked 3 cords lol. I recommend a good leaf blower! Then there's the chainsaw maintenance etc. You can sharpen a chain pretty fast once you get good but it takes practice. The wife usually doesn't like this part but when she saves $600 a month on oil she gets over it fast!

3. Up front cost is high. A good chainsaw will run you a minimum of $300 but I think its worth getting a larger engine/bar model so more like $500-$600. A maul, axe, and pickeroon will run you $50 each. I'd recommend a trailer for your lawn tractor to aid moving splits, or if you don't have one, a good wheelbarrow. That'll be another $150. A splitter is $1500 new for anything worth getting (I believe in vertical hydraulics I'm not a fan of the smaller electrics). So you're looking at at least $600 to get in but more like $1000 base for good, proper tools, then add a splitter if you want.

I'm obviously a huge fan of doing it myself but I realize it's not for everyone. It's a lot of work but I did it very rewarding. Happy to share any of my experiences, as I'm sure others are too. Lots of us here DIY our wood.

View attachment 296427

A whole bunch of words, to just say: Wood burning for heat is not an energy source - it's a lifestyle! Choose wisely!

 

[Caw]

A whole bunch of words, to just say: Wood burning for heat is not an energy source - it's a lifestyle! Choose wisely!

I like words lol

 

[Woodsplitter67]

How's everyone doing?

So my father in-law has been taking in trees from tree companies for the last year. He bought a splitter and his guys have been splitting in the greenhouse on rain days; he's accumulated a ton of wood, and I've been eyeing it since I moved in to my house last year. His first load was actually split wood he bought from some guy, and he claimed the wood had been split 3 months prior. So, I thought it was a good time to go and stack it because it's been split for approximately 12 months at this point. Thing is, the wood wasn't really stored in a way that is conducive to proper drying. Was pretty much in a pile...a sunny pile, but still a pile. But that's the wood I took since I knew it had been split before all the other stuff he has.

I built two racks yesterday and started stacking the wood today. Each rack is a face cord so I've probably got half a cord right now. I split 5 pieces and they are reading between 28-40%. Felt light to handle, and this is after heavy rains the last two weeks, but I thought it would at least be mid-twenties. Both racks are located where there is generous sun, at least 4-6 hours of direct rays per day. I know it's based on a lot of factors, but in your experience, do you think these will get down to 18-20% by the time November rolls around? It's a mix of maple and oak, to my knowledge. I'm on Long Island so it stays hot pretty much through the middle of October...hoping they'll have some good time to bake.

Open fireplace, recreational burning, if that means anything.

Thanks for your input!

View attachment 296119 View attachment 296120 View attachment 296121 View attachment 296122 View attachment 296123

You can wrap the racks and make kilns and the wood will be alot drier.. probably close enough to where it will burn correctly.. but you running out of time

 

[Marconis]

Alright so I have been splitting some to make them smaller for burning and it’s a mixed bag, but lower in MC than I thought they’d be. 18-37 lol. I’m going to keep splitting and keep the dryer stuff on top so I know what’s what, and then will plan to pick up some kiln dried wood (as in, the bagged stuff) just to pop one or two on to get things burning hot. Also need to get a new moisture reader because I broke a pin on this one.

 

[fbelec]

get use to the weight of a split and you'll know if it's dry enough just by picking it up

 

[Marconis]

get use to the weight of a split and you'll know if it's dry enough just by picking it up

Yeah for sure, starting to get a feel for that!

 

[stoveliker]

First see if you can buy new pins..many models have replaceable pins

Second, kiln dried wood is often a misnomer. It is not dry. It has been heated to kill some bugs. It likely won't be good enough to help with wet wood. Instead buy sawdust bricks. Make sure they have no additions (was or whatever) but are pure sawdust. Tractor Supply has them.

 

[Marconis]

First see if you can buy new pins..many models have replaceable pins

Second, kiln dried wood is often a misnomer. It is not dry. It has been heated to kill some bugs. It likely won't be good enough to help with wet wood. Instead buy sawdust bricks. Make sure they have no additions (was or whatever) but are pure sawdust. Tractor Supply has them.

Oh, cool didn't know they have replaceable pins I'll take a look. As for the kiln dried, what I was referring to was that Simple Simon wood; that stuff to my knowledge is truly kiln dried and burns just by breathing on it. Used it early on last year before I had a wood source. I bought a brick of supercedar for the starters; I'll certainly look into those bricks. Thanks!

 

[ericm979]

get use to the weight of a split and you'll know if it's dry enough just by picking it up

Even better, if you knock two spits together the sound can tell you how wet they are. Dull thud means it's wet. A hollow clank is dry.

 

[fbelec]

if it's dry it will sound like bowling pins

 

[Isaac Carlson]

I'm doing a test on a cord of fresh maple I cut a few days ago. It felt really heavy, but sounds pretty dry. No water squished out when splitting it either. I weighed two pieces and put one back on the pile , marked with the weight, and the other is drying on a grate on the wood stove. It started at 9 lb 6 oz and is down to 8 lbs right now, so it has lost 17% of it's weight. I just want to have an idea how wet it was, because I tried the multimeter trick and the results were all over the place, from .05 megohms to 1 megohm. I'm not going to buy a moisture meter, I'm just curious.