Will this wood be ready for me this year?

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Airflow is IMO the most important. You want the prevailing winds blowing through your shed or stacks.
Don't get me wrong, I was saying the key to building a solar kiln is full sun. In that case you are basically minimizing airflow (still having enough to extract the humid air) so as to build up heat inside the stack which drives the moisture out of the wood.

Lacking a sunny location, I agree it's best to have a shed with open sides so the stacks can breathe. That's what I have here since my whole yard is pretty shaded.

[Hearth.com] Will this wood be ready for me this year?
 
In my experience, dead standing ash the branch wood is ready to go but not the trunk or bigger branches. It will also burn OK if 22-23% MC but not nearly as well as sub 20%. Don't try that with many other woods.

Ditto @stoveliker's comments regarding moisture and will add that the steam from boiling out the excessive moisture inhibits secondary combustion and keeps flue temperature down longer giving additional time for creosote formation.

Creosote forms at temperatures under 250 degrees with the presence of moisture and volatiles. Excessive moisture content inhibits the ability to get above creosote forming temperature and adds one of the components necessary for creosote formation. I figure there is heat loss in warming up the flue so on startup I expect top of the flue is under 250 until the flue probe is giving me 450. Coaling stage there's no moisture and no volatiles, so it's not as much of a concern if the temperature drops below that as long as combustion is complete (all wood fibers are burned). Smouldering a fire by having the air choked back too far or excessive moisture can cause creosote because the temperature drops too much before combustion is complete.
 
Don't get me wrong, I was saying the key to building a solar kiln is full sun. In that case you are basically minimizing airflow (still having enough to extract the humid air) so as to build up heat inside the stack which drives the moisture out of the wood.

Lacking a sunny location, I agree it's best to have a shed with open sides so the stacks can breathe. That's what I have here since my whole yard is pretty shaded.

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Very nice shed! I live next to a creek and small pond so for now I’ve been doing single row stacks and crossed stacks on pallets. All my platforms are elevated on patio bricks. Also have a long row of wood along my retaining wall of my driveway. Looks very neat. I do have a spot for a shed now since I had 7 trees removed from my property last Fall.
 
In my experience, dead standing ash the branch wood is ready to go but not the trunk or bigger branches. It will also burn OK if 22-23% MC but not nearly as well as sub 20%. Don't try that with many other woods.

Ditto @stoveliker's comments regarding moisture and will add that the steam from boiling out the excessive moisture inhibits secondary combustion and keeps flue temperature down longer giving additional time for creosote formation.

Creosote forms at temperatures under 250 degrees with the presence of moisture and volatiles. Excessive moisture content inhibits the ability to get above creosote forming temperature and adds one of the components necessary for creosote formation. I figure there is heat loss in warming up the flue so on startup I expect top of the flue is under 250 until the flue probe is giving me 450. Coaling stage there's no moisture and no volatiles, so it's not as much of a concern if the temperature drops below that as long as combustion is complete (all wood fibers are burned). Smouldering a fire by having the air choked back too far or excessive moisture can cause creosote because the temperature drops too much before combustion is complete.

100% agree. I try to get a fast burning top down fire on all my cold starts. Will be interesting to see how my flue and chimney looks this spring since my sweep said I could skip a year.
 
What heating alternatives to wood do you have? At 650/ cord it is the equivilent to running an oil furnace at 3.18/ cord according to Efficiency Maine’s chart and calculator. But that also is surely figuring well seasoned wood. I’d remove every other board on the side and back of the shed or better find a sunny spot, if you can, that could catch a breeze to stack and cover that 30% wood.
 
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I understand. A few years ago when I build this shed, I'd been getting this kiln dried stuff for a couple years and was very happy with it. I was also very turned off by other people who sold "seasoned firewood" that they'd always lie about just how seasoned it was. And once it's delivered, it's not like you can return it if you're unsatisfied. So I built the shed under the understanding that further seasoning wouldn't be necessary and didn't incorporate any ventilation.

The side and rear 1x12 planks were butted against each other and I'm guessing they wedged in nice and tight at this point. Otherwise, I'd consider installing hinges on them and swinging them up during the warmer half of the year.
Firewood guys are the new used car salesman. Very few are honest these days. When I respond to an add someone selling “seasoned” firewood they reply immediately with price. As soon as you ask how long it’s been split, or if you can go check it with a meter they ghost you. Never hear from them again. The silence says a thousand words.
 
That's why I always get my wood very early in the year.

My biggest complaint over the years and many different wood dealers was being shorted in the amount. I always order 4 cords. And after stacking it amounts to 3.25 or 3.5 cords. Then you get the excuses. About 6 years ago I finally found an honest dealer. A kid actually. Think he was 18 when he started. He delivers and tells me after stacking call with any shortages and he will bring more, no charge. That's the way it should be.
 
Firewood guys are the new used car salesman. Very few are honest these days. When I respond to an add someone selling “seasoned” firewood they reply immediately with price. As soon as you ask how long it’s been split, or if you can go check it with a meter they ghost you. Never hear from them again. The silence says a thousand words.
I wonder if they just honestly don’t know. If one never did research and had wood in log length for a couple years then split it figuring that’s what every other tree guy did and call it seasoned maybe they think that’s what’s right. Just like people say burning pine will immediately burn your house to the ground. Now if you do your research one will find that’s not the case. I think a lot of tree guys just don’t know.
 
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I wonder if they just honestly don’t know. If one never did research and had wood in log length for a couple years then split it figuring that’s what every other tree guy did and call it seasoned maybe they think that’s what’s right. Just like people say burning pine will immediately burn your house to the ground. Now if you do your research one will find that’s not the case. I think a lot of tree guys just don’t know.
Ignorance is not an excuse. If your in business selling to the public you have the responsibility to know exactly what your selling. Especially tree guys. They know the difference.
 
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Ignorance is not an excuse. If your in business selling to the public you have the responsibility to know exactly what your selling. Especially tree guys. They know the difference.

Why do tree guys know the difference? If they don't heat with a modern stove and have dealt with wet wood how would they know the difference just because they cut trees down? There business is cutting down trees, not selling firewood.
 
Ignorance is not an excuse. If your in business selling to the public you have the responsibility to know exactly what your selling. Especially tree guys. They know the difference.
Ignorance is everywhere in mfg/private sector/retail etc. It’s not right but it is abundant. In a perfect world everybody would know their job. But yes you are correct.
 
My local tree company processes 100’s of cords they also produce mulch. Both vital parts of their business.
 
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My local tree company processes 100’s of cords they also produce mulch. Both vital parts of their business.

Yes and the mulch and firewood bring in a small fraction of their money. The majority comes from cutting down trees. Mulch and firewood is just how they get rid of waste.
 
Yes and the mulch and firewood bring in a small fraction of their money. The majority comes from cutting down trees. Mulch and firewood is just how they get rid of waste.
Well I know the owner and they made a huge investment in two commercial splitters and a tumbler. Don’t think you know the scale of their business. They also sell wood to other sellers. Im a small customer.
 
My wood guy gets all his wood from the tree cutters who don't want to deal with processing firewood. He buys some and some he gets for free as they just want to get rid of it. He starts cutting and splitting in early Spring which is when I order it. Since I get it early I get a discount. Most customers wait till early Fall.
 
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Well I know the owner and they made a huge investment in two commercial splitters and a tumbler. Don’t think you know the scale of their business. They also sell wood to other sellers. Im a small customer.

Ok, but that doesn't sound like a typical tree guy. At least not near me.
 
Ok, but that doesn't sound like a typical tree guy. At least not near me.
Agree not a typical tree guy. They are a big tree service. Crane, 2 bucket trucks, chippers, log truck. Big capital investment in equipment. They also make and supply black mulch to garden centers and retail customers. I ordered 6 yards 2 years ago and it still looks great. Excellent product @ $27 a yard.
 
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Why do tree guys know the difference? If they don't heat with a modern stove and have dealt with wet wood how would they know the difference just because they cut trees down? There business is cutting down trees, not selling firewood.
Your argument holds no water, and circumvents the point. If a tree guy is selling Firewood he has the responsibility to know weather the woods is green or seasoned. If he is not selling wood that’s a different story altogether. The conversation here is firewood sellers and believe me tons of tree service guys process firewood.
 
Your argument holds no water, and circumvents the point. If a tree guy is selling Firewood he has the responsibility to know weather the woods is green or seasoned. If he is not selling wood that’s a different story altogether. The conversation here is firewood sellers and believe me tons of tree service guys process firewood.

I would say most tree guys sell firewood. But selling something does not make you an expert. If the guy that sells you the stove doesn't know you need dry wood why does the guy selling you the wood have to know the stove needs dry wood? Dealers selling just about anything often don't know what they are talking about and are just trying to make money, why should firewood be any different? It's up to you to operate your stove correctly, not the person selling you wood.
 
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Your argument holds no water, and circumvents the point. If a tree guy is selling Firewood he has the responsibility to know weather the woods is green or seasoned. If he is not selling wood that’s a different story altogether. The conversation here is firewood sellers and believe me tons of tree service guys process firewood.
I can agree. In the same token, many woodstove owners are not responsible enough to know what truly seasoned firewood is. Many think a year will suffice, as do some producers. Tree service or not. Another factor is the change of stoves. Those of the pre early 90s and those of the modern variety. Semi seasoned wood isn't going to perform as easily as it used to. Us seasoned vets know the difference and, yes some wood is great within a year......some. Some sellers are used car salesmen, and will sell anything. Some want to sell a good used car at a good honest price.

If one is selling firewood, and knows what's proper, market it as such. Reputation is key. If it's green wood, be informative and sell as such. There are tree services that are selling wood that has been cut and split 6mons to a year, all species, and think it's seasoned. They may be used to older practices. I am a tree service/contract climber. I've been around quite a few outfits. None that I have known, know the difference. They're in the business of tree work. Firewood helps pay bills in the off season. They process in the spring, early summer and think all's well by fall.

In the end, it's up to the consumer to be informed. If one is buying firewood or a car, IMO that's where the importance lies the most....be responsible to be informed.
 
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Over the last 44 years I've been burning wood I've dealt with many wood dealers. I don't know any that sold truly seasoned wood. My current dealer is about the closest. He splits his wood early in the spring. All the others split it just around the time you order it. Sure, they have the logs cut but only after you order it do they cut and split. It's up to you to order it well in advance to know how seasoned it really is.
 
The bottom line is figure any wood you buy should be considered not ready to burn and should be stacked and seasoned properly by the homeowner. I do have an issue with large tree companies advertising seasoned wood when it’s not. Licensed Arborists know the species very well and know some types season much quicker than others. Believe me they know oak takes time while others not as much.
 
I would say most tree guys sell firewood. But selling something does not make you an expert. If the guy that sells you the stove doesn't know you need dry wood why does the guy selling you the wood have to know the stove needs dry wood? Dealers selling just about anything often don't know what they are talking about and are just trying to make money, why should firewood be any different? It's up to you to operate your stove correctly, not the person selling you wood.
 
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I would say most tree guys sell firewood. But selling something does not make you an expert. If the guy that sells you the stove doesn't know you need dry wood why does the guy selling you the wood have to know the stove needs dry wood? Dealers selling just about anything often don't know what they are talking about and are just trying to make money, why should firewood be any different? It's up to you to operate your stove correctly, not the person selling you wood.
No use even trying to make sense here. To think a guy that makes a living cutting trees doesn’t know the difference between dry wood and wet wood is ludicrous. Especially if he sells firewood. You’re certainly entitled to your option. I’m done here. Good luck!