1st floor5.5" might be ok. Is this a basement or 1st floor install?
5.5 costs more than 61st floor
@bholler - yes, I read that and was just wondering if there is an advantage to one size or the other. In theory 5.5" should be a bit cheaper than 6" (less material) but is there an advantage to having a 6" I'm not aware of? 20% more volume in the flu - less resistance, etc? I know a few people in this thread have had draft issues and just want to make sure I'm not missing something.
Thanks very much for the advise! I'll check it out.That's not too far off from normal. Cat temp 481 after 4 hours isn't horrific. Go inside the firebox, there is a metal hood in the bottom center, closest to the door. Loosen (not remove) the 2 bolts, and see if there is a small metal plate that you can pull up and out. If there is no metal plate at all, you can remove the metal hood to be 100% sure. If you truly don't have the metal plate, then contact your dealer for one. 2600's didn't have it at first, and then later on got them. It reduces the air. I'd say this is worth verifying.
Is the digital thermometer on the cat or the flue? If on the cat, the temp range will be from 500º to 1600º. Close the bypass when the cat gets above 500º.Hey guys. I have the i2700. What should be my operating temp? What is to hot for these inserts to be working at? I have a Digital thermostat. I just want to make sure I’m operating safely.
Glass cleaning products for wood stoves are a scam. Just take some of your wood ash and add water. That's the only 'paste' you need to clean your glass.Switched to a Rutland paste type product, fingers crossed.
I think this is below-average performance for this stove.I'm only getting a 4 hour burn time. That is from the time the stove is packed, the bypass is closed and the damper is set to 0%, it's only 4 hours before the cat time drops back below 500 and there is little left in the stove.
No need to worry about the cat as the fire is dying down. The fire is all coals by that point and the coals burns very clean, so no need to worry about any soot build-up on the cat. Just close the bypass above 500F and you can leave it closed.Hi wood burners. Happy new year, I hope everyone is doing well and staying safe! It's been a while since I was last on the forum so I have some catching up to do but I do have a couple of questions I'm hoping some one can answer.
I have a couple of seasons usage now on a CI2600 and I'm fairly happy with it's performance and appearance but I have a catalyst question. I know Regency recommends not closing the catalyst bypass until the fire temp has reached 500°F or more but is there a low end temp. (below 500) at which the bypass should be opened. The reason I ask is that frequently morning temps. can be 350-450 or even below. Will temps below 500 damage the catalyst?
Last, how often do you all clean your chimney?
Thanks in advance for any responses and if any other information is necessary please let me know.
PS: As I said, it's been a while since I've been on here so I'm not sure I'm posting this properly so sorry for any improper posting!
As above: coaling stage does not really need the cat. Letting a fire die with the cat engaged is fine.
I use a soot eater mid season and have an end of season sweep by a prof (because my insurance likes that).
No need to worry about the cat as the fire is dying down. The fire is all coals by that point and the coals burns very clean, so no need to worry about any soot build-up on the cat. Just close the bypass above 500F and you can leave it closed.
You should definitely open the bypass if you open the door to refuel. That inrush of cold air when the door opens is not good for the cat (the rapid temperature change can crack it).
Clean your chimney once per year. I have mine cleaned in spring (Apr or May) because those guys get really busy in late summer and in the fall.
In my experience they aren't necessary. Once a year cleaning is all that's required. The cat (if working and used properly) does a really good job of keeping the chimney creosote-free.Do you think the logs are ok to use?
Creosote logs should not be used in cat stoves - according to my manufacturer.
The soot eater can be done from the bottom up. Disconnect the stove pipe, tape a bag on the bottom of the chimney with a hole in it for the rod (and stick the first one with the brush in the bag before taping), then use your drill and feed additional rods.
I'm not going up my 2.5 stories with the chimney on an outside wall and solar panels leaving only a small strip at the edge to walk on...
See e.g. here
Any chance your chimney is blocked? Bird or squirrel made a nest?Hello Again,
My less than 3 month old CI2700 has developed a new problem and I was wondering if anyone else has experienced the same themselves. Two mornings ago I had trouble getting the stove going, weak draft and lot’s of smoke coming into the room. I came home from work and the glass was as extremely black. I thought at first it was due to ash build up in the box blocking the draft port, so I proceeded to clean all but about an inch of ash out of the box.
This morning, same problem, no draft and I came home to glass even blacker than the day before. I then decided to get a shop vac and try sucking out the draft port. Same result, no draft, huge smoke buildup in the box. I am new to the whole wood insert thing but what would cause it to be functioning fine one day and not the next?
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