The Buck stops here; 91 Bay Heater install under way!

[Woody Stover]

I think it would be a strange install to just pipe it to the liner? I dont know what would hold it in place?

Also i have the gold door and windows. We did not think we would like it at first. Wife hates gold/brass. I does look sharp though. And its real gold leaf as well, better than brass as you dont have to polish it. I think it adds hundreds to the price of the stove when new. I think Stoll quit making the gold door but when i bought mine the company still made then then and i think my stove as it sits was sold in the showroom for a bit over $2500!!

Yeah, at the stove shop, the Plain Jane like mine was $3000, but with gold was $3300+...can't remember if it had the bay window trim and the ash lip trim.

If you don't have a lot of pipe/liner, just the screws would hold it I would think...

Here's how I understand the connections (I've been known to be wrong

Positive, Direct, Slammer.

Woody,
mine has a large heavy duty cast, if I remember correctly, connector and gasket that fits flush to the top of the stove.
It connects with 3 L brackets that are inside of the connector down inside the stove and out of sight. Good looking fit.

My bay windows blackened up the first fire and have been that way ever since. I tried to clean them but they are a b#*$% to get to....lol.

My cat temps will exceed 2000 degrees but the Buck rep guy @ Bucks plant told me not to worry that they were good at far greater temp than that......now I just let her eat.

David

Sounds like you have this one that is shown in the manual (shows it on a free-stander, but...)
"optional NBC cast chimney connector"
Finally figured out, NBC=New Buck Corp.

[Having trouble pasting image] Pg. 17 of online manual.
(broken link removed to http://www.buckstove.com/buckfiles/manuals/Buck-Stove-Model-91-Manual-%28Rev-10102008%29.pdf)

When I saw the stove for the first time I noticed that the front window was clear, but the bays barely transmitted light...figured that was the way it was going to be (which is too bad because seeing the fire from the side would be cool.) I guess that besides no air wash, there's probably not enough radiant heat in those corners to keep 'em clean...

As far as the combustor temps, I'm going to try to keep them below 1800 but several owners have said that it will go to the moon pretty easily. I'm going to try to control off-gassing by using big splits, loading methods, air control etc.


Well, I finally got back over there and chopped and trimmed the brick out of the back with hammer, chisel and masonry wheel on an angle grinder, and also got some of the creosote out of the smoke chamber of the masonry chimney. It was pretty rough. I had to fashion a booth out of a bed sheet taped to the fireplace to contain the dust. I put a box fan in a window to try to force air up the chimney faster. That kind of worked but I ate a lot of dust, even with the mask and glasses. I was going to cut a sealing strip for the mask out of my goatee, but in the end didn't go that route.
I went after the creo with a cable-tie wire wheel, up to the level where I will install the Roxul "block-off plate." If I had it to do again I would just knock off the flaky stuff with a wire brush; There was so much creo dust that I thought it would get sucked into the grinder and I would have a tool fire on my hands. When I hit the glazed creo, hot balls of that stuff embedded in the skin of my arms. After thinking about it, I've decided to go back over there with a chimney brush and rods, and get all the flaky stuff I can reach, far above where the Roxul will be. I'm thinking that most of the stink is coming off the flaky stuff when it is humid out, not from the glazed stuff (could be wrong on that.) If I get the insert in there and still can smell that creo smell on occasion, I'm going to be annoyed. Detracts from the wood-heat experience...so I'm going to try to get rid of as much of it as I can (short of using chemicals.) I will wait a couple days because it's cool today, don't want to be cooling off the house with the window fan. Plus, I need a couple days to recover from Round 1.

Tried to call Buck yesterday to get some answers on these parts, but no answer. Will try again today.
We have a couple of days in the upper 70s to begin next week, and not too bad after that. I should have this torch installed by the time some cool days get here...

 

[clemsonfor]

When my "slammer" is running there is no smell at all! But on the humid days or temp inversions or something in the summer there are certain days whey you get a "smoke" smell. Not sure if its from all the creosote that was from open fireplace or its coming out of the stove itself (inside has some crosote buildup on walls) but its just noticeable. During stove operation there is Zero smell.

 

[Woody Stover]

When my "slammer" is running there is no smell at all! But on the humid days or temp inversions or something in the summer there are certain days whey you get a "smoke" smell. Not sure if its from all the creosote that was from open fireplace or its coming out of the stove itself (inside has some crosote buildup on walls) but its just noticeable. During stove operation there is Zero smell.

I think in my case it is coming out of the chimney, under the conditions you describe. I'm trying to avoid that smoke smell; There is a preponderance of women in this family, and they don't like that chit. I don't think anyone does...

 

[clemsonfor]

i honestly like the smell of fire. As a forester who is around burns from time to time its a fairly common smell. Cant say i would like it 24/7 but every now and then reminds you that you burn wood.

My Aunt on the other hand, burns an open fireplace. After plenty of chimney fires they finially had one to crack the tiles and outer brick. They had some profesisonal place line the chimney so they can still use the fire place. It draws terrible, it never drew good but now its awfull! They have a dark charred area over the opening where the smoke spills into the room. It smells like smoke all winter while burning and you can actually see the haze on bad days in the vaulted area? I tell them its awfull and she dont think so. My eyes water and i say that cant be good in a closed house!! I try and convice them they needa stove, as most of the heat is from the fireplace in the small 800sqft home. But she dont want one. She use to heat with wood in an old craft when first married so i dont know why??

 

[central_scrutinizer]

Here is the 8" chimney connector for the Buck 91, top and bottom. More than likely you will need an appliance connector from whatever manufacturer you choose to get your liner from. The cast collar will accept rigid pipe directly, usually, but the flex liner needs it's own connector. The female end of the connector will fit directly into the cast collar.

 

[Woody Stover]

Thanks for digging up the pics, central scrrrrrrrootinizer. When I talked to the guy at Buck, he told me that is the only connector they have...no clips. I went ahead and ordered it. I doesn't look real tall, which is good for me. I haven't looked yet but if the insulation is very near the top plate, I won't have room to lift the liner much to clear the collar.

I've been chipping away at prepping the fireplace when I have time. Now I'm waiting for stove parts to come in.

Here's a pic of the top bricks removed and the next row trimmed back.
(broken image removed)

I cleaned up some of the creosote that ran onto the floor of the fireplace when the old insert was run with the slammer install. That's gotta be contributing to the occasional creo smell with a chimney down-draft. I used Rutland Glass Cleaner and it did pretty well. You can also see some failed mortar joints that the creo corroded. I had an open tube of mortar patch and grabbed it without thinking it through. Later it occurred to me that if this is ever used as an open fireplace, that stuff might not hold up too well. I didn't go too deep...there is mortar under the patch material. Anyone think I need to rip it out and use furnace cement?
(broken image removed)
(broken image removed)

 

[mellow]

I would worry about that if it ever gets converted back to an open fireplace, I am sure this buck will be in there for many years.

 

[Woody Stover]

If my MIL leaves, the Buck is leaving too...and probably the liner with it.

Another thing I've got to address on the install is a hearth extension. I'm not sure and will check first, but I think 3/8" Duroc covered with tile will be Kosher?

Then I've got to figure out how to get the color to match on the new tile.

 

[mellow]

I have the same tile and same issue, still mulling it over what I want to do. If I extend the hearth that ugly tile is gone, just not really got that warm fuzzy feeling to go cut up my wood floors. I would check with Buck to see what they want for R value for the hearth.

My thread on what I am thinking about doing: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/beefed-up-hearth-rug.92724/

 

[Woody Stover]

I have the same tile and same issue, still mulling it over what I want to do. If I extend the hearth that ugly tile is gone, just not really got that warm fuzzy feeling to go cut up my wood floors. I would check with Buck to see what they want for R value for the hearth.

My thread on what I am thinking about doing: https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/beefed-up-hearth-rug.92724/

Wow, that tile looks identical to what is at my MIL's...6" tiles of the same color. I think I may only need one additional row of tiles to get the clearance I need. I'll check into the R-value required and contact Buck if need be.
If you decide to tear your hearth out and redo it, can you send me some tiles?
There is carpet on the floor there, also. It looks as though the height might match up without cutting into the wood flooring...

 

[Woody Stover]

I took that mortar patch out and put in some furnace cement. It was a pain to remove; Stuff adhered to the bricks pretty well. That's what I get for not thinking.

(broken image removed)

FedEx brought the last of the parts I was waiting for. I took the flue collar and 30* elbow and dry-fitted them to the flex. Very close to the amount of drop needed to get to the top of the stove. Might have to lift the liner just a hair. Perfect, since I don't have any slack at the top in case it didn't reach all the way down to the top. The pieces are falling into place.

 

[David Tackett]

Well, did you get it installed? What does it look like? How does it perform?

 

[Woody Stover]

Well, did you get it installed? What does it look like? How does it perform?

Yes...yes, I did.
It went surprisingly well, which was spooky. Not used to that. I lucked out getting the stove to the hearth, too. I had decided to take the stove over to MIL's house and see if I could recruit some help moving it in. If not, I was prepared to leave it there, on the trailer, until I could line up some help. Then I found out that three of my wife's cousins were in town visiting and I caught them in transit, very close to MIL's house. We strapped the stove to a dolly and wheeled her right in.
Somehow, I lost the pic I took of the finished liner; It goes flex liner, 30* elbow, cast flue outlet.

(broken image removed)

With that connected, I was able to raise the liner a couple of inches with someone below manning the floor jack and me above, lifting the liner from the top. Then I moved the top clamp down to hold the liner in the raised position. My nephew and I laid down some sheet metal (thanks, begreen) and slid it into position pretty easily. I'm a few inches short on mantle clearance, and a hearth extension will also have to be addressed...
I'll start an operation thread shortly and hopefully I'll get some helpful hints from some of the folks who are running this stove.

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[corey21]

Nice work looks nice.

 

[David Tackett]

Well, made and put legs on my 91 today. Gonna make and weld a collar to it and hope to install it this week sometime. I am using it as a freestanding. I have great expectations for this stove, I hope I am not let down.

 

[Woody Stover]

Nice work looks nice.

Thanks, Cory. I like the look of that stove (although these last two pics aren't the greatest.) I'll put the surround on in a couple days. I ordered gold spring handles and the gold trim that goes around the ash lip or "hearth" as they call it. The surround has gold trim and the room has a "gold thing" goin' on, as you can see...

 

[corey21]

Thanks, Cory. I like the look of that stove (although these last two pics aren't the greatest.) I'll put the surround on in a couple days. I ordered gold spring handles and the gold trim that goes around the ash lip or "hearth" as they call it. The surround has gold trim and the room has a "gold thing" goin' on, as you can see...

I agree gold trim would match that room.

 

[Woody Stover]

OK, I found the pic of of the collar and elbow installed on the liner.
I sealed the joints with Rutland Hi-Temp Stove and Gasket Cement. Heard it sizzling when I lit a fire. Maybe should have built a small fire, or sealed with the 1000* silicone I found at the stove shop...

(broken image removed)

 

[_CY_]

thanks for sharing

 

[Woody Stover]

thanks for sharing

You're welcome, CY. If you're considering this stove, I've got a couple other threads on it; You can search "Buck 91" in the Hearth Room and find them.

 

[_CY_]

installed Buck 91 yesterday ... been trying to figure how to get this stove to burn hot ... finally got it to go 1500f last night using hard Oak.
today could barely get it pass 800f ... seems inside is full of glowing embers plugging fresh air inlet. ...much better after unplugging front inlet for shotgun air.

where does the two primary air dumps into inside firebox?

my fireplace is just Massive! shields barely covers opening.

 

[_CY_]

sorry didn't take any pictures ... basic electric motor refresh instructions:

1. remove front lower cover plate held in by two screws
2. unplug fan motor ..
3. there's four screws that hold down fan blower assembly. unscrew ground screw (green wire)
4. unscrew left two screws which hold down screen that holds blower rheostat
5. carefully remove screen .. remove two wires going to thermofan switch, position doesn't matter. center wire stays
6. unplug black wire from motor to thermofan switch
7. unplug white wire from motor to rheostat
8. now carefully remove entire blower assembly .. should easily slide out
9. remove three screws holding down blower motor to fan housing .. make mark to ID where to put back
10. take motor/fan out .. then remove fan taking care not to disturb weights .. one sae allen locks fan to shaft
11. your motor is now isolated ... there's two long bolts holding motor together .. unscrew
12. then carefully pry to separate motor housing.... blow out all the dust bunnies ...
13. be careful ... stretch wires only far enough to allow removal of rotor.
14. clean rotor shaft then repack with high temp moly grease... careful don't use too much.
15. motor uses bushings, not bearings .... wipe excess grease...
16. reassemble in reverse ... fin