To most guys buying chain on the roll would seem silly. But if you figure the price you pay for chain based on how much per drive link it doesn't take very many chains for the break even and you still have most of a roll left. I think I'm in ballpark of 8 cents per DL. For 16" bar it comes close to 5 bucks a chain. Sell a few to friends and neighbors and your money comes back fast. Plus I've gotten to the point I don't want shops making my chain. Factory is OK but after learning how to do it I've seen real questionable work. Neighbor had one almost come apart from shoddy work.
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surviverguy
New Member
- Mar 19, 2012
- 99
I've been using the stihl chains for years even with non-stihl saws. I use the normal green safety chains (never tried the other types). I find the engraving on the cutters helpful for filing the correct angle. Lately I've only bought chains from ebay, mostly new, occasionaly used,- always sets of 3-5 chains. I've standardized to use 16" bars (small), 20" (medium), 28" (large),..... 3/8" x .050 always.
With several of each length, I just swap a chain when I notice its cutting slower (if I don't want to stop cutting and have to file) . The removed chain goes into a box for sharpening and a new or sharp chain installs in seconds. Using a dull chain wastes time (slow cutting) and money (fuel+mix+bar oil) and is dangerous. A new sharp chain slips through wood like a hot knife through butter.
With several of each length, I just swap a chain when I notice its cutting slower (if I don't want to stop cutting and have to file) . The removed chain goes into a box for sharpening and a new or sharp chain installs in seconds. Using a dull chain wastes time (slow cutting) and money (fuel+mix+bar oil) and is dangerous. A new sharp chain slips through wood like a hot knife through butter.
Well called the stihl dealer near me and there chains are much more money than Oregon pro chains. Does anybody know of a good site to buy them at a comparable price to the Oregon chains? I do not want to make the chains because it would not be worth my time. I do cut year round but only use maybe 2 chains a year per saw.
Thanks
Pete
Thanks
Pete
surviverguy
New Member
- Mar 19, 2012
- 99
I've bought (3) new Stihl 55 link chains (green safety) for 16" bar for $21.00 or $7.00 each........(4) new 72 link Stihl chains for 20" bar also green safety for $25.00 or $6.25 each.....(3) barely used (never resharpened and damage free) for 28" bar for $45 or $15.00 each.... EBAY....it's worth the wait!
chuckie5fingers
Member
Great question pallet pete: I was wondering the same thing! I just got a husky 455 rancher for my birthday. I cut about 6 large logs and the chain is already dull.. Bummer! I guess I get to practice my chain sharpening skills. LOL1
chuck
chuck
Hey chuck did it come with an anti kick chain ? If it did it is junk you want a pro chain for sure with that saw. I like Oregon pro chains but I am always in the market for a better chain aka this post lol
Good luck with the new saw and be safe.
Pete
chuckie5fingers
Member
yeah pete, it was the safety chain I'm pretty sure. Do you think LOWES carries pro chain or am I just dreaming?
chuck
chuck
I've never seen any there. Was amazed to find my last 2 Oregon 72LGX .050 gauge 20" full chisel at Northern Tool last Fall though.
Nop lowes has non that I know of. You should check online and at your saw shop if you have one near. The yellow boxed oregon chains are not the pro chains mine come in a cardboard box from the local husky dealer and are ten times better. Look at the bar on your saw and you will find the info needed to buy a chain to fit your saw.
Good luck
Pete
Good luck
Pete
chuckie5fingers
Member
chuckie5fingers
Member
This thread made me pick up a Stihl RS chain today for the 361 today. I buy the Oregon chains from Amicks for 14 bucks a piece so I better notice some type of difference by paying 23 bucks for one! 
Sticker on it was 27 but got 4 bucks off due to it being an open house today at the dealer.
Sticker on it was 27 but got 4 bucks off due to it being an open house today at the dealer.
Sharp chain is the best chain 
Selecting a chain for what you are cutting is also important. If we are talking cutting rounds for fire wood:
(Oregon makes Husqvarna chains.)
I'm told the Stihl RS chains hold an edge better but are a little harder to sharpen, chromed teeth, Oregon LGX is the close equivalent.
The Oregon LPX is also a good chain, the one I've used for years with good success, (this year trying the Stihl RS)
I still have some of the safety chains & use them now & then. Great for liming & pruning & small jobs, less kick back.
For cutting fire wood, I use the round chisel. This year I'm trying the Stihl RS, from others here & a local saw shop, I'm told they hold an edge longer.
But again, it depends on what you are cutting, Some chain is made for cutting dirty wood & stay sharp longer when in the dirty stuff.
Even some carbide teeth chain out there, just high dollar & requires special sharpening.
Most Box stores don't sell the full chisel chain, not for home owners who rarely use a saw because they have the potential to kick back more if not operating the saw properly. When I quit buying box store safety chain & started using the round chisel, (Oregon LPX) what a big difference in performance. (Oregon LPX & Stihl RS3 have some kick back reduction with a hump on the drive link yet has a full chisel cutter for fast cutting & when using the tip of the bar they have less kickback. A nice feature for me, I use the tip of the bar allot)
The round chisel is the easiest to sharpen & cuts fast .
According to the tests, the square chisel is the fastest cutting, but it is an art to sharpen them.
No perfect chain for all applications. (But a sharp one is important)
For cutting most logs into rounds for fire wood, a full chisel works the best for me. Kick back is more dangerous with it but for an experienced user, we know when we use the tip for cutting to expect more kick-back energy. Most of our cutting is with the flat part of the bar cutting rounds across the grain& cutting speed here is what we are after.
If your saw bogs down frequently, maybe you need a skip chain, (or a bigger CC saw). Longer bars (over 24" usually) use a 1/2 skip or full skip, to help keep RPM up & clear out the wood chips from the cut. I tried a skip on my 20" & got poor performance, now it's a back up chain.
Some references :
http://www.baileysonline.com/saw-chain-cross-reference-chart.asp
http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/types.html#RS
http://woodcuttersupply.com/Saw_ChainReference-.html
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/article/1507/Chainsaw_Chain_Measurements_Sizes_and_Types.html
![[Hearth.com] The best chain ?](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/65/65501-640657d6fa402619b9c2e6e58000fddc.jpg?hash=rtdWyq_Dxy "[Hearth.com] The best chain ?")
Selecting a chain for what you are cutting is also important. If we are talking cutting rounds for fire wood:
(Oregon makes Husqvarna chains.)
I'm told the Stihl RS chains hold an edge better but are a little harder to sharpen, chromed teeth, Oregon LGX is the close equivalent.
The Oregon LPX is also a good chain, the one I've used for years with good success, (this year trying the Stihl RS)
I still have some of the safety chains & use them now & then. Great for liming & pruning & small jobs, less kick back.
For cutting fire wood, I use the round chisel. This year I'm trying the Stihl RS, from others here & a local saw shop, I'm told they hold an edge longer.
But again, it depends on what you are cutting, Some chain is made for cutting dirty wood & stay sharp longer when in the dirty stuff.
Even some carbide teeth chain out there, just high dollar & requires special sharpening.
Most Box stores don't sell the full chisel chain, not for home owners who rarely use a saw because they have the potential to kick back more if not operating the saw properly. When I quit buying box store safety chain & started using the round chisel, (Oregon LPX) what a big difference in performance. (Oregon LPX & Stihl RS3 have some kick back reduction with a hump on the drive link yet has a full chisel cutter for fast cutting & when using the tip of the bar they have less kickback. A nice feature for me, I use the tip of the bar allot)
The round chisel is the easiest to sharpen & cuts fast .
According to the tests, the square chisel is the fastest cutting, but it is an art to sharpen them.
No perfect chain for all applications. (But a sharp one is important)
For cutting most logs into rounds for fire wood, a full chisel works the best for me. Kick back is more dangerous with it but for an experienced user, we know when we use the tip for cutting to expect more kick-back energy. Most of our cutting is with the flat part of the bar cutting rounds across the grain& cutting speed here is what we are after.
If your saw bogs down frequently, maybe you need a skip chain, (or a bigger CC saw). Longer bars (over 24" usually) use a 1/2 skip or full skip, to help keep RPM up & clear out the wood chips from the cut. I tried a skip on my 20" & got poor performance, now it's a back up chain.
Some references :
http://www.baileysonline.com/saw-chain-cross-reference-chart.asp
http://www.stihlusa.com/chainsaws/types.html#RS
http://woodcuttersupply.com/Saw_ChainReference-.html
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/article/1507/Chainsaw_Chain_Measurements_Sizes_and_Types.html
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