AS above stated, I have used a brass punch and no rope in the cylinder to remove a clutch on a chainsaw. You just need to shock it loose, as soon as it moves it will spin off.
Something seems wrong with chainsaw (clutch)
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Somebody who I think ought to know told me not to use an impact / hammer and punch / whatever to loosen the sprocket nut or clutch. Said it can bend or shear the key to the flywheel on the other side, changing the timing or resulting in no timing at all if the flywheel spins.
Do I still sometimes use my impact anyway - yes, but very gently, and usually when I've cut enough wood that day to have no interest in futzing around.
Just throwing that out there. Actual results are probably very dependent on the particular saw, and the particular mechanic.
Do I still sometimes use my impact anyway - yes, but very gently, and usually when I've cut enough wood that day to have no interest in futzing around.
Just throwing that out there. Actual results are probably very dependent on the particular saw, and the particular mechanic.
I use an impact to remove clutches all the time,leave the spark plug in.
I never use rope in the cylinder as you can damage stuff if you aren't careful.
The flywheel thing is a new one for me, i have never heard that or had it happen.
If i don't have the tool for the clutch i make one. For your clutch i would find a socket in my junk sockets that has the same outside diameter as the inside diameter of the three round slots in the clutch, cut 3 pieces of round stock that fit in the slots and weld them to the outside of the socket. then remove the clutch
I never use rope in the cylinder as you can damage stuff if you aren't careful.
The flywheel thing is a new one for me, i have never heard that or had it happen.
If i don't have the tool for the clutch i make one. For your clutch i would find a socket in my junk sockets that has the same outside diameter as the inside diameter of the three round slots in the clutch, cut 3 pieces of round stock that fit in the slots and weld them to the outside of the socket. then remove the clutch
And to put the clutch back on; just a few burps with the impact, put the bar and chain back on, run the saw, hit the chain brake a couple of times while wound up a bit. Done.
Or else just put it in the wood and go...
This "special tool" clutch bs is annoying. Lots of old saw's clutches just have a hex head for a socket, complete with a dead-end ramp for a punch and hammer. It's a plot to sell "special" tools, I tell ya..
Powersaws (especially Huskys) could be rebuilt in the bush on the endgate of the pickup. And regularly were. In a couple of hours. Topend in far less than an hour. At staging waiting for the helicopter. Not any more.
Or else just put it in the wood and go...
This "special tool" clutch bs is annoying. Lots of old saw's clutches just have a hex head for a socket, complete with a dead-end ramp for a punch and hammer. It's a plot to sell "special" tools, I tell ya..
Powersaws (especially Huskys) could be rebuilt in the bush on the endgate of the pickup. And regularly were. In a couple of hours. Topend in far less than an hour. At staging waiting for the helicopter. Not any more.
Just a question....I Have ordered a clutch and new hub, as well as 3 new springs. Is it critical that the springs hook in the same manner (from the underside of the plate) or could a guy hook a spring from the top side? Only asking because if I did reverse the way the spring hooks, I wouldn't even need to remove the old clutch and I'm backnin business....possibly. If I pull the old clutch I figure I may as well just put the new clutch on and repair the old clutch to keep in stock for the next 9 years.
Time flies, the saw is older than I remembered. 2014 I purchased it. That would put about 50 cord of wood with that clutch. (5x128cuft cord a year)
Time flies, the saw is older than I remembered. 2014 I purchased it. That would put about 50 cord of wood with that clutch. (5x128cuft cord a year)
I have a lot more than that on my orginal clutch from about 2002, 7900. Had to plull the clutch on a 6401 home depot cast off as the oiller assembly was melted . just made a derlin plug that threaded in the spark hole to hold the piston at tdc . another piece of derlin rod and a hammer to bump clutch loose. same trick I have been using for years on small engines flywheel bolts and such.
Just replace the whole clutch with the new assembly. Or you'll be struggling with another broken spring jamming up the works.
Personally i have changed springs in clutches.
Changing all three is the best, but i live 100 miles from any saw dealers so sometimes you make due with what you have and change the missing spring with a used one.
Pretty simple devices really,just make sure that any pieces from the broken spring are not inside the clutch area to cause any further destruction seeing it's an inboard clutch.
Changing all three is the best, but i live 100 miles from any saw dealers so sometimes you make due with what you have and change the missing spring with a used one.
Pretty simple devices really,just make sure that any pieces from the broken spring are not inside the clutch area to cause any further destruction seeing it's an inboard clutch.
I rolled the dice and just changed the springs...the new clutch came with the springs attached from the top (easy) side, so I removed the old ones and put the 3 new springs in. I looked pretty hard for the broken tail of the the spring that broke and I didn't recover it. I'm going to keep my fingers crossed that it came out during the dismantle and clean up and I didn't see it because I wasn't really sure what I should be looking for. If things go bad because of it I should have most the parts in hand now. I'm hoping to do some more cutting tomorrow and will test out my fix.
Thanks to all of you that gave me a hand in figuring this out.
Cheers
Matt
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Thanks to all of you that gave me a hand in figuring this out.
Cheers
Matt
Yep this was a spot on diagnosis.
Why the drum was so difficult to get off was because the clutch plate had jumped out of its nest and was jammed against the drum. Persistent wiggling was what eventually loosened the hub, and revealed the broken spring and clutch plate that had "jumped" out of its spot.
EbS-P
Minister of Fire
he plays to the utube crowd for his benefit
If you want real information go to OPE or Arboristsite
Getting it back now
If its a clear day it's sunny from 9:30 AM to 5:15 PM now
compared to dec 12:00 PM to 1:30 PM
I've never "followed" anybody. I have gleaned a tip or two from buckin' billy. His long windedness is tiresome. I usually just skip through to find a tidbit or two.
He sure beats those who don't have a clue, but try to teach. And there's a lot of that going around these days.
He has a clue or two, and teaches some things pretty well, imo.
This mention of him in this thread prompted me to check him out for the first time in over a year. Nothing of interest to me at this time..
He sure beats those who don't have a clue, but try to teach. And there's a lot of that going around these days.
He has a clue or two, and teaches some things pretty well, imo.
This mention of him in this thread prompted me to check him out for the first time in over a year. Nothing of interest to me at this time..
all night moe sums it up nicely
I watched a few minuets and that was enough
Better things to do like watch paint dry
IMO
I watched a few minuets and that was enough
Better things to do like watch paint dry
IMO
EbS-P
Minister of Fire
I was able to give the saw a good workout today. It seems all is fine and changing the 3 $1.50 ea. springs was all it needed. I hope to give it another couple tanks tomorrow as well. I might be able to start bragging again about the quality and reliability of this Dolmar 6100 saw. $4.50 for clutch springs and a $25ish air filter after 9 years of use (50+ cord) is pretty darn good and hard not to advocate. Oh and it was about 30% less purchase price than the equivalent 2 major brand saws.
