Thanks to all that post here...

[Jags]

I can "accurately" use my cook top/single wall pipe thermometer on top of my stove and pretty much trust the degree reading?

Yes - BUT - that is based off of your thermo being somewhat accurate to begin with. To clarify - if you have an accurate thermo - it doesn't matter if you stick it to your stove top or pipe - it will still give an accurate reading. WHAT you are reading makes the difference. Seeing 650F on a stove top - no biggie. Seeing 650F as a surface reading of your stove pipe.... Time for action.

 

[Christopix]

Yes - BUT - that is based off of your thermo being somewhat accurate to begin with. To clarify - if you have an accurate thermo - it doesn't matter if you stick it to your stove top or pipe - it will still give an accurate reading. WHAT you are reading makes the difference. Seeing 650F on a stove top - no biggie. Seeing 650F as a surface reading of your stove pipe.... Time for action.

What if you regularly see 700-750 (according to the thermometer) on the stove top but when the secondary tubes and baffle are examined, there isn't any worrisome glow? I have an IR thermometer on order that will let me know if my stove top thermometer is accurate.

 

[Jags]

700-750 don't scare me a bit, but I ain't skeered of 'nuthin.
Not that I would recommend continuous operation at that range, but I regularly hit those numbers as a peak temp.

 

[Christopix]

700-750 don't scare me a bit, but I ain't skeered of 'nuthin.
Not that I would recommend continuous operation at that range, but I regularly hit those numbers as a peak temp.

Okay. So, do you think my thermometer is off if I cruse at that temp for 35-45 minutes or so? Or do you think I have too much draft or something? Chimney is 3 stories (stove is in the basement).

 

[Jags]

I can only speculate on the accuracy of your thermo - but to state it a different way...Do I think that peaking at 700-750 for half an hour before it settles into a nice long burn at a lower temp out of the ordinary? No - very possible. If this is concerning to you, start cutting your primary air down a little sooner in the burn, but it sounds like pretty normal operation and good, dry fuel.

 

[Christopix]

I can only speculate on the accuracy of your thermo - but to state it a different way...Do I think that peaking at 700-750 for half an hour before it settles into a nice long burn at a lower temp out of the ordinary? No - very possible. If this is concerning to you, start cutting your primary air down a little sooner in the burn, but it sounds like pretty normal operation and good, dry fuel.

Okay. I won't stress then!

Do you or anyone reading this thread recall any posts on How to properly burn an EPA Non-Cat stove? I'm pretty sure I have it just fine but I'm wondering if I'm allowing a little too much air for fear that I will be smoldering. I was always told that there MUST be some bright active flame. Yes? I compulsively check my chimney and I only have smoke during reloads - rarely during start up as I do the Top Down and get the secondaries going before the main load gets going.

 

[Jags]

I was always told that there MUST be some bright active flame. Yes?

No! Not true. I am often cruising with the "logs" glowing and the flickering secondaries with little wispy, slow dancing, lightly rolling flames. Nothing that I would call "active", I would describe it as more "gentle" or even "mesmerizing". Like liquid fire cascading down.....errrr...you get the idea.

Look at your chimney - no smoke = good burn.

 

[Jags]

Heck, for that matter, a good fire may have very little activity at all. Nothing says the secondaries have to be rolling to be "working".

 

[Christopix]

No! Not true. I am often cruising with the "logs" glowing and the flickering secondaries with little wispy, slow dancing, lightly rolling flames. Nothing that I would call "active", I would describe it as more "gentle" or even "mesmerizing". Like liquid fire cascading down.....errrr...you get the idea.

Look at your chimney - no smoke = good burn.

Well, I guess I've been burning too hot for fear of creosote, and not burning pollutants. So, even if I only have a little flame (your analogy of liquid flame is a good one) that is just fine then? My question then is how does the stove continue burning the coals, and remain hot/warm after the outgassing if there isn't enough air?

 

[Christopix]

Heck, for that matter, a good fire may have very little activity at all. Nothing says the secondaries have to be rolling to be "working".

Wow! Really? I totally didn't know that!

My only experience burning wood is with an old All-Nighter NON-EPA cert stove. This is my first modern stove. Clearly I'm burning too hot and with too much air.

 

[Christopix]

I think the other reason why I burn hot is that I've noticed that my stack temp seems to drop to the 300's if I let those lazy liquid flames ride.

 

[Jags]

Ahhhh....the learning curve. There is no ONE answer. Every stove, every install will have something unique to it. That is where a little time under your wings will prove out the real answer. The first year with a stove will almost inevitable be the year that wastes the most wood.

 

[Jags]

I think the other reason why I burn hot is that I've noticed that my stack temp seems to drop to the 300's if I let those lazy liquid flames ride.

Can I assume 300 surface temp on single wall, or is this probe temp?

 

[Christopix]

Ahhhh....the learning curve. There is no ONE answer. Every stove, every install will have something unique to it. That is where a little time under your wings will prove out the real answer. The first year with a stove will almost inevitable be the year that wastes the most wood.

Yes. I'm at the level where I'm aware of the fact that there is a lot that I still don't know!

 

[Christopix]

Can I assume 300 surface temp on single wall, or is this probe temp?

Single wall.

 

[Jags]

Single wall.

Single wall at 300F is ~600F internal. Very much in the safe territory. No reason to be concerned with that temp.

Yes. I'm at the level where I'm aware of the fact that there is a lot that I still don't know!

That is not a negative. Being aware that there is more to safe burning than throwing burnable stuff into the stove and striking a match tells me that with a little time with your stove, you will be one of the "good" guys. Heck, just showing up to this site and asking questions is leaps and bounds above many.

We can help to shorten the learning curve, but we cannot eliminate it. Your stove will still be a little unique and that can only be "learned".

 

[Christopix]

Thank you Jags!

And to the OP, I feel as though I highjacked your thread… Sorry about that.

 

[Jags]

Thank you Jags!

And to the OP, I feel as though I highjacked your thread… Sorry about that.

Well, I think we both did. But I guess that was the point of the thread. People posting to help people.

 

[Warm_in_NH]

And I continue to be educated. I found it almost disturbing how little info came with my stove. Other than the break in fire procedure it didn't tell me squat about how to run the stove, loading, temps, ideal fire etc..

My gf has a jotul and he instruction book was a little better than my heartstrings book, but neither came close to the info on this site.

 

[cableman]

I just checked the manual and it doesnt give you any #'s like the online one does! When i emailed them last year they sent me this!

 

[Paulywalnut]

jags. what im hearing u say is that a thermometer is a thermometer. Theres no predetermined "handicap" or set-back on them depending on where theyre intended to be placed? I can "accurately" use my cook top/single wall pipe thermometer on top of my stove and pretty much trust the degree reading?

What's your avatar? A badger?

 

[Warm_in_NH]

Lmao...it's a humiliated Rottweiler, apparently gf thought he needed to wear her hat. Badger, lol...

 

[ort5]

...

Ort5, From a contractors point of view, it's easy if you take the time and read and re-read everything prior to starting. Also a good stove shop with good people with make sure you have what you need to get it done. I went to three shops before I found the one I dealt with and where I live, that's a lot of driving to go to 3 of them, but it was well worth it to have the owners, who are the salesmen, who are the installers, talk me through it all prior to selling me piece one. The Burning Bush Home Center in Warren NH, was a huge help in this and in making the pipe work out the way it did as well as being WAY below other dealers prices. (shameless plug, but worth it)

Thanks for the great pictures and detailed description. It seems somewhat straightforward, but I would certainly work with a stove shop to make sure it was done right. Your installation looks very solid and neat, well done.

Enjoy the warmth! I miss my old wood stove in my new home, but there are days when just flipping a switch and having instant, unlimited flame in the gas fireplace are nice!

 

[Jags]

At 7 Degrees you are probably looking at steam. Look at how it dissipates once it left the stack on a calm day. Smoke doesn't disappear, steam does.

 

[dyerkutn]

Smoke doesn't disappear, steam does.

yes it disappears after about 10 feet--but wow there is a lot. Is this like seeing your breath on a cold day? And if so, then this is not any indication of seriously adding to creosote build up since it if not real smoke?