Switching Jotul F3cb from rear exit to top exit

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Weg

New Member
Aug 18, 2022
2
Pittsburgh Pa
I just purchased a used f3cb set up for rear exit. Seems fairly straightforward to switch it to top exit. Any tips or guidance from anyone who has done this task? Thanks.
 
Should be a quick fix. You have to unbolt the top plate retainer bar & the vent block off plate will come right out. Simply install it the same way on the rear location. IIRC, the exploded view shows a gasket present in the rear exit set up, so you may have to get that from your Jotul dealer.
 
Ive switched over tons during restorations for people.

1. Pop the top- there are 2 set screws on the sides of the stove, right below the lid. Takes a hex head bit to get out. One you remove those, the top will come off.

2. Pull the cover off the top that covers the top flue exit. Its just a single 10mm bolt going through the traverse bar.(If the stove was originally ordered as rear exit, the top will not even be opened, if this is the case you will have to follow the knock out instructions in the manual and use a hammer to break out the top opening. If this is the case you will also have to order the conversion kit for the cover)

3. Remove rear heat shield. Now from here you could have 2 things going on as well, either no rear flue coller or flue collar. If its nothing, just the stove pipe going into the back of the stove, then just remove the stove pipe, clean around the outside edge w a wire brush.

4. Take the cover that was on the top, clean the back where the gasket material was with a wire brush. Use the V125x8mm flat adhesive gasket from Jotul around the outside edge of the cover.

5. Install cover over rear hole, and put the traverse bar on from the inside and hand tighten as best you can.

5a. If you had a flue collar on the back, it should
switch to the top, just clean and replace the gasket from bottom of the collar(same flat gasket), and replace onto the top with the same treverese bar that was securing it to the back. If there was no flue collar, they make an attachment stovepipe you can order that fits right in the top of the stove and sets on the washers attached to the underside of the top flue exit.

6. Replace the whole top gasket with new 3/8LD gasket , I also check and see if the airwash gasket is intact thats right in front as well. Replace that with 3/16 LD self adhesive if needed.

7. Replace top back on top of the stove, and tighten down with the set screws from the sides. As your doing this w the new gasket, you may have to put some pressure on the side your tightening until it “catches” the eye on the top. You will see the top start to sinch down when it catches. When you see that, dont fully tighten and go to the other side and get that set pin in and set, then once that side sinches down, you can tighten both set pins until they are pretty much flush with the outside of the cast.

And then your done. Good luck!
 
One final note, before removing the top, mark the left and right sides with tape so that it goes back on correctly. Also, make sure those little allen screws are properly aligned. If not, the top will lift slightly on top of the screw and that will create leakage that messes up the burn. I found this out by accident. When the top is on correctly it will be perfectly flat and parallel with the stove body. And replace the stove top gasket if it is old.
 
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Wow, there an good old thread, had some good times with good ole Elkimeg lol
 
Yes, definitely early days. It was one of my first postings in the forum changeover back then.