stove won't get very hot

[Dairyman]

Welcome to the madness of a hearthstone soapstone stove. These stoves send way to much heat up the flue. Adjusting the air based of stove top temps is futile. You need to go off flue temps and by the look of the fire. The trick is to get the air control turned down in stages to low as quickly as possible and keep the fire burning well.

I've been hand picking mostly ash splits as they are the lowest reading moisture. Im leaning towards my wood NOT being the problem as even when I burn biobricks alone the stove won't get above 325 degrees as read on my stovetop thermometer. Ive been to a couple of retailers looking for an infrared thermometer but all I'm seeing is units that max out at around 600f. Id like to be able to also use it in an automotive capacity and was hoping to get one with a higher heat range. Are the stovetop thermometers that are made for soapstone more accurate than a magnetic rutland thermometer?

Harbor freight has had one that will read up to 1000°.

 

[Dairyman]

Here's a good thread on operating a hearthstone.

https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/getting-a-hearthstone-up-to-600°.76166/#post-76166

 

[Smoked]

I had one other thought today. The primary air comes in the lower front center (dog House). Make sure your splits do not block that air inlet.

 

[turbotom1052]

I had one other thought today. The primary air comes in the lower front center (dog House). Make sure your splits do not block that air inlet.

I'm very anal about trying to keep the doghouse clear. Im hoping that once things get a bit colder Ill be better able to make this thing pump out some heat.

 

[Highbeam]

I had one other thought today. The primary air comes in the lower front center (dog House). Make sure your splits do not block that air inlet.

That is just one of the primary air sources, actually a minor one, the major source is the air wash above the glass. I miss the clean glass of that heritage, they designed that system well with 100% of combustion air (primary and secondary) fed from the single 3" OAK nipple.

 

[Smoked]

I'm very anal about trying to keep the doghouse clear. Im hoping that once things get a bit colder Ill be better able to make this thing pump out some heat.

Ok, that takes care of that! This weekend should be cooler so maybe a better draft. mine is really easy to get to 400 (except with my bad for whatever reason cherry) and i like to keep it around 500 when in 24x7 mode. This is a decent mystery. No smoke says it is running clean so not too cool, so stove top should be better. I measure mine on the center of the stone in front of the top vent block off. If the baffle is right, it should be running warmer.

 

[Highbeam]

Ok, that takes care of that! This weekend should be cooler so maybe a better draft. mine is really easy to get to 400 (except with my bad for whatever reason cherry) and i like to keep it around 500 when in 24x7 mode. This is a decent mystery. No smoke says it is running clean so not too cool, so stove top should be better. I measure mine on the center of the stone in front of the top vent block off. If the baffle is right, it should be running warmer.

Yes, but remember the fouled glass. The OP's stove is not burning right. In my experience burning good fuel at normal temps was that the heritage window stayed very clean, just white ash to wipe off every few weeks.

I'm still guessing wet wood, large splits, and aggressive air shutoff.

 

[Babaganoosh]

Anyone live near this guy? If so please gather up some dry wood and go over his house, bring an ir thermometer too.

 

[turbotom1052]

Yes, but remember the fouled glass. The OP's stove is not burning right. In my experience burning good fuel at normal temps was that the heritage window stayed very clean, just white ash to wipe off every few weeks.

I'm still guessing wet wood, large splits, and aggressive air shutoff.

he only time my glass gets fouled with soot is if I pack the firebox full and turn the primary air all the way down before going to bed at night. When I wake in the morning there may be a a little soot on the bottom of the glass.

 

[turbotom1052]

Yes, but remember the fouled glass. The OP's stove is not burning right. In my experience burning good fuel at normal temps was that the heritage window stayed very clean, just white ash to wipe off every few weeks.

I'm still guessing wet wood, large splits, and aggressive air shutoff.

I don't mean to sound unappreciative but as I've mentioned in numerous posts on this link that I've encountered the same problem with the stove not coming up beyond 325f even when burning BioBricks all by themselves. Its my understanding that these BioBricks burn pretty hot as they are well below 20percent mc. Im not trying to dispute that my wood may not be at an ideal moisture content ,but that even when burning hot stuff the stove won't get above 325f. Id think that although my wood shouldn't be eliminated as a course of poor heat, it does stand to reason that there may be other issues. Im open minded and appreciative of all the suggestions I've received, but perhaps we can stop beating the dead horse of wet wood as Im reasonably certain that even when the wet wood is removed from the equation the problem persists. If theres one thing of absolute certainty on this website its that WET WOOD DOEST BURN I promise I get it Even my wife only has to tell me one time to take out the trash.

 

[begreen]

I don't think anyone asked this, is the baffle sitting nice an flush down on the tubes and tight all the way to the back of the frame? It should be tied and maybe even glued down but if it shifted forward and you have a gap in the rear, you could be losing some heat there.

I think hearthstone wires the baffle down with stainless steel wires twisted around the tubes.

 

[begreen]

When bio bricks were tried out, how many were burned at one time? Were they burned alone or with wood? Were these Bio Brick brand blocks with the BIO stamped on the front?

 

[turbotom1052]

When bio bricks were tried out, how many were burned at one time? Were they burned alone or with wood? Were these Bio Brick brand blocks with the BIO stamped on the front?

they were the BioBrick brand with bio stamped on it. I tried various ways of burning. 4 biobricks until well lit and then my driest ash splits on top of coaled biobrick. Then i tried a load of 6 biobricks all by themselves. It was the 6 biobricks by themselves that allowed me to get up to 325f. Before that the hottest I could get it was 300f. One guy suggested a stovepipe dampener. Im thinking this may be the best suggestion yet because as far as I can tell my chimney sucks like a coney island whore. I don't think too little draft is the issue.

 

[begreen]

Thanks for being patient with all the questions. With strong draft and a full load of dry fuel, all secondary tubes should be flaming. If you can get a pallet and cut it up that should work for a test. When burning the 6 Bio Bricks were you able to turn down the air control significantly?

Has the dealer been out to check into this problem? A leak is one possibility. That might disrupt airflow through the stove. Sometimes you can spot the culprit by seeing the fire burning unevenly toward one area. Also, visually check the baffle for any cracks or pieces missing, especially toward the back of the stove.

 

[turbotom1052]

Thanks for being patient with all the questions. With strong draft and a full load of dry fuel, all secondary tubes should be flaming. If you can get a pallet and cut it up that should work for a test. When burning the 6 Bio Bricks were you able to turn down the air control significantly?

Has the dealer been out to check into this problem? A leak is one possibility. That might disrupt airflow through the stove. Sometimes you can spot the culprit by seeing the fire burning unevenly toward one area. Also, visually check the baffle for any cracks or pieces missing, especially toward the back of the stove.

No problem turning the air control down with the biobricks ,and just burning my wood splits. Can turn it down to like 20 percent and I have a firebox full of flame as long as I've got a good red hot coal bed. Only the very rear secondary tube lights off steady. Every once in a while the middle tube will put out a few small streams of flame. Never the front tube. I purchased the stove used and reconditioned it myself. All new gaskets, new baffle, Furnace cemented inside seams. Stove is pretty tight.

 

[begreen]

Sounds like you have gone through the options then. Were there any parts left out or that fit unusually? If the combustion is complete then the forward tubes may not appear to have jets of flame coming from them all the time. Not all secondary combustion occurs at the tubes.

 

[turbotom1052]

Sounds like you have gone through the options then. Were there any parts left out or that fit unusually? If the combustion is complete then the forward tubes may not appear to have jets of flame coming from them all the time. Not all secondary combustion occurs at the tubes.

I thank you all for your help. Perhaps when my infrared thermometer gets here I will be pleasantly surprised. If not then I guess something else needs to be done. Im hoping that its not the heat just going up the chimney. Is there a way I can do an easy and temporary reduction in draft out of the stove ,in hopes of keeping more of the heat in the firebox? If this works then I will spring for a pipe dampener?

 

[begreen]

I've read that the Heritage sends a lot of heat up the chimney. A draft damper is inexpensive. It will slow that down a bit but you wan't to be careful not to knock down draft to the point where there is not enough negative pressure in the firebox to pull air through the secondaries.

 

[mrpee]

I just read through this post, I started my Hearthstone Hearitage at 2:00 it is now 3:16 and the air is closed and flue damper at 20% secondaries are fireing. I am burning Bull Pine and outside temp is 54 deg. I forgot to say stove top is 350 deg. And wood is at 15 percent moisture content.

 

[mrpee]

Now at 4:20 the stove top has been at 450 deg for around 45 min. Outside temp 53 deg. Thus is about my seventh fire so far.

 

[quotejso]

Hopefully will be hot enough to heat the house. I don't ever see 600 degrees but there is lots of heat.

 

[Smoked]

I have read they run a hot stack too but for me that has never caused an inability to get a decent STT, just a real easy cleaning job in the spring and maybe a smaller woodpile My 05 model has never had gaskets and had gotten to the point where it was get it going and shut the primary down all the way and the leaks and the secondaries kept it right where I wanted it...I thought. I have new gaskets for it this year because it was finally running a little hotter than I liked with a full load. For the new 11 model, it has been a learning curve again. Can't just shut it down, have to do it in increments and still never all the way and I can already tell burn times are going to be longer. Keep us posted when you get the IR.

Also, where did you use furnace cement? Maybe I should look at that for my 05 model too?

 

[turbotom1052]

I have read they run a hot stack too but for me that has never caused an inability to get a decent STT, just a real easy cleaning job in the spring and maybe a smaller woodpile My 05 model has never had gaskets and had gotten to the point where it was get it going and shut the primary down all the way and the leaks and the secondaries kept it right where I wanted it...I thought. I have new gaskets for it this year because it was finally running a little hotter than I liked with a full load. For the new 11 model, it has been a learning curve again. Can't just shut it down, have to do it in increments and still never all the way and I can already tell burn times are going to be longer. Keep us posted when you get the IR.

Also, where did you use furnace cement? Maybe I should look at that for my 05 model too?

I used furnace cement on the interior seams where they had cement from the factory. I also had the top stones out and re cemented the joints in the top stones. I feel pretty confident that the stove is sealed up pretty tight. I can choke off the air supply pretty low with my primary control if I move it all the way to the right. To the point where I wake in the morning with a bunch of unburned charcoal. Based on my experience with my old leaky Jotul I never woke up to charcoal. This tells me the Hearthstone is pretty tight. Am I wrong in assuming this?

 

[Smoked]

I used furnace cement on the interior seams where they had cement from the factory. I also had the top stones out and re cemented the joints in the top stones. I feel pretty confident that the stove is sealed up pretty tight. I can choke off the air supply pretty low with my primary control if I move it all the way to the right. To the point where I wake in the morning with a bunch of unburned charcoal. Based on my experience with my old leaky Jotul I never woke up to charcoal. This tells me the Hearthstone is pretty tight. Am I wrong in assuming this?

No, I think you are right. Once you get to colder weather and a hotter fire, the secondary flow will sustain itself better and you will likely not be waking up to black coals. It is sort of a self sustaining snowball. Once the firebox temps are really high enough and you get into full secondary burn, you can't shut it down. That s why you see posts about runaway concerns on these tube stoves with no easy way to shut off all air. But the EPA would not let you certify a stove if you gave the operator an easy way to shut it down to a smolder without a cat cleaning it up! This new 2011 model is requiring way more side door help in getting things started for me this year for sure!

 

[branchburner]

I can choke off the air supply pretty low with my primary control if I move it all the way to the right. To the point where I wake in the morning with a bunch of unburned charcoal. Based on my experience with my old leaky Jotul I never woke up to charcoal. This tells me the Hearthstone is pretty tight. Am I wrong in assuming this?

Depending on the load, I would hope to wake up to some hot coals rather than a cold stove, whether it has burned down to ashes or to charcoal. So I'm wondering, how are the burn times on a full load? If you have a box full of flames with the air setting at low AND the wood seems to be consumed at a pretty good clip (even if it leaves some charcoal) perhaps there is a leak somewhere.

My thought is that a leak could be pushing heat up the flue and cooling/diluting the firebox towards the front of the stove, explaining both why the forward secondaries don't fire and why temps aren't pushing a little higher, even with the biobrick.