Stove Lighting in 15 days J.A. Jung Sirius wood stove..
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She's doing so good, that I think she needs to keep an eye on her wood supply, in case the "mother of all blizzards" appears this winter 
I'm surprised it hasn't hit yet. Denver has had it easy this year. When we moved west we got stuck in a huge blizzard just outside of Denver in mid-October. It shut down the interstate and we spent the night in a church off an exit. Of course, being Denver, it was sunny and 70º the next day.She's doing so good, that I think she needs to keep an eye on her wood supply, in case the "mother of all blizzards" appears this winter
Those pieces belong above the rockwool insulation below the deflector. Those should have been installed by the installer.
(broken link removed to https://www.jaroby.com/img/boutique/archives/manual_10-000_en_boutique_r14-mb46z.pdf)
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Yea that's how Denver is one day it is sunny and the next day it is a blizzard and its been warmer than usual and by this time we should have had it but not yet..This week Wed. and Thursday I believe it will be in the 70's and dry--I believe--lol....This stove business has a bit of a learning curve here.. Today I put in three 16 inch kiln log splits (1/4th) size and then added two more and now the temperature is about 450 and 500 and cannot seem to get it any higher--so far...I think my blower starts at a certain temperature then reverts to just every half hour it runs after it clicks off --not sure how it works but I like it for it blows warm air out the top of the outside of the stove and around towards the front..Now I can see some people not liking the noise of it but I am used to noise (5g hums-24 hours a day) (could not resist to plug that in-lol)--I seem not to be able to get the temperature up over 500 degrees on the reader and the gauge is on top of the left cooking plate. My fire went out twice and I had to adjust the air supply on the front of the stove about 1/2 to get the flames to come again.. I do not like the handle to this stove and need to get used to working it I guess--terrible design ....I have watch the posting video--very nice one--top down fire I like and also been watching u-tube video's all day--lazy day...I try to put in new wood with no flame because when I open up the door it flames and throws sparks at me--scary..and I get so nervous I try to shut the door and the door won't shut---terrible feeling here...I know that you people have no sympathy for this little old lady but that's how it has been also ...I think this wood is damp because my glass gets dirty and I just cleaned it this morning with oven cleaner and now it is dirty again...thought these stoves kept the glass clean with some stove glass gadget or something? I cannot take a reading of my wood moisture because of needing a double sided type of battery on the meter and have not be able to get to the store as of yet. The next batch I am going to use only environmental logs and see if that makes a difference with the burning after it cools and I clean the glass off again--not pleasant...So I am learning---love my stove so far and learning to do better...But there is quite a learning curve here and all you people are PHD's;;
Thanks for your help and hope it does not snow just yet for I need to go to the store and I do not drive in the stuff. lol Thanks again...old clancey
Thanks for your help and hope it does not snow just yet for I need to go to the store and I do not drive in the stuff. lol Thanks again...old clancey
Ah, insulation weights. Good catch. The insulation is most likely kaowool, ceramic blanket.
Thanks ABMax and I will get my installer out here to fix those and will not light my stove anymore until they are fixed--thanks so much...clancey
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
If the stove isnt leaking smoke with the door open your prob fine not using the weights while waiting for the installer.
Thanks did not know but that woke me up and this is nice to know make me feel better..I am leaving Chris a message now ...clancey
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
Clancey, if you like the compressed wood products better, there is usually a sale during black Friday, even if you can't make it to the store, you can order online and pick up at a later date at most larger retailers.
Also, the stove runs best when you let the wood burn down to coals before you add wood. You mentioned that you are afraid when you open the door and flames and sparks come out. That suggests to me that you add wood a bit too soon. Let it burn down a bit more before you re-load. (and later, slowly, as you get used to the stove and burning, and the air control, increase the load, so that you get longer burns)
That is an idea and I will check on that sale and my stove installer Chris will be here tomorrow about 3pm to fix my stove right...He did not install it one of his other installers installed it--he put up the stack with my carpenter so that we could have it go straight up without a bend that I did not like--like straight things...ha .When I fire up my environmental logs and if I like them I will check into that sale...thanks...I love my stove---also I will discuss this handle with him--just to be able to fuss about something--lol he expects it and i like him but disappointed he did not care about the moisture meter not having a battery so that we could test my wood...He will bring a battery with him tomorrow and a tribet too...Happy camper here..thanks everybody and after my stove gets cold I will clean it pretty again...old clancey
It seemed to be an easy fix and all he did was lay those two steel plates on top of a insulating blanket I believe....I asked him and show the picture from the catalog --"don't you have to screw it i or something and he said "no" just lay it on top of the blanket which he did...I also asked him (full of questions now) how often should a person have their wood heater pipe stack cleaned because of creosote built up and he suggested about once a year or after you burn two full cords of wood. I asked him how I could see it and he said you need to get up on the roof..He then said another way would be to check the screening on the cap and check out how clogged up or dirty it looks and that could be a quick check up ... Now the moisture meter I got is terrible and I cannot even get the steel pins through the wood.. I asked him about environmental logs and he said that they have chemicals in them and they can cause grime in the stove piping.. Took a picture of the moisture meter and it is cheap and I cannot really read it with the wood being too hard for it to go into 5mm like the directions says.. Directions about 30 words of nothing--here is a picture of it and if you have any suggestion on a better one please let me know...My installer said he could feel the wood and it is "dry" and it looked like about 5 or something on the meter--then it changed to 50% then 8 was there too as it fell out of the wood as we tried to look at it--terrible-.I also asked him how I could clean my glass and he said get some ceramic cleaner and that I could also get cold water and wipe it off with some of my fine ash material in the bottom of the wood stove and that would clean it...old clancey
On the box it said:AMTAST Digital MD8 sure range 5%-40% ..Made in China..
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On the box it said:AMTAST Digital MD8 sure range 5%-40% ..Made in China..
Would not they have a better one then this one like maybe one that I could "zap" the wood with? This one is just too hard to push in for me and oak wood is a hard wood I just want a better one....clancey
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
They are all cheap. I have a pin-less meter, but it's not very good either.
Nope. It boils down to making electrical contact. That needs to be good for the measurements to give reliable data (in fact, it will most likely be the highest moisture content you measure that is correct, as the contact issues will lead to a lower reading of the moisture content).
I have a different one, but I have the same issue. Sometimes it's just hard.
I have a different one, but I have the same issue. Sometimes it's just hard.
Well I will just have to make due with "this thing"---can not even take a hammer or something to pound down those little pins into the wood because it is plastic..I notice they gave me extra pins for it.. Such a important piece of equipment for wood fires and so cheap---b----, b---- Thank you for your help and if I can make my electric screw driver tool work maybe i can make do with that..--lol I took a reading of a damp sponge and it told me 50% then it said 8D then 0 then back to 30% and one really does not know which reading is good even my stove installer did not like it...so he said the wood was dry...so I will make do...thank you forum friends had to get it off my chest...old clancey
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
A damp sponge has a totally different electrical resistance than wood in the 15-50% moisture range. Get some 1/16" drill bits for your electric drill driver, that will make the job easier.
1/16 drill bits and I will do that and try it again...With the sponge I just wanted to see what kind of reading it would give me and it was easy for me to push it...This tiny page with the directions for this meter are just not too good..I will fool with it and that wood stove fine ash with cold water worked and cleaned up my glass real good.. I asked him why not just windex and he said it had ammonia in it and this would make the window have stains where the burn wood stains were as a after effect..you could clean them off but one never knows if they will just stay there as a stain in certain light. So he suggested ceramic cleaner at a place like home depot or something..I took a break from stove lighting tonight and it is not cold enough anyway--tomorrow might be in the 70s I think..thanks clancey
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
MEngineer24
Burning Hunk
Glad to see things working out for you! Keep warm by feeding the addiction lol!
There is no need to bury the pins in deep. Split it fresh then push it in 1/8" to 1/4". You can test it by pushing it into your palm. obviously not hard enough to draw blood. but should read around 35%.
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