Started new install for FP30 (Pacific Energy)

Rogerius

New Member
Jan 15, 2019
26
Grey County, ON
I just started this weekend the install of a FP30 fireplace in our undergoing build. The house is 1800sqft with just main floor finished and no planning to finish the walkout basement for now.
We brought the unit from the dealer and stored in my neighbor garage as I wasn't able to drive up the steep driveway (still snow on the ground). I was able to start the rear framing and the fire stopper over this weekend. I'll use Selkirk 6" chimney approved for FP30. We are planning to use the both heat kits to move the heat in the basement and in the master bedroom which is right behind the fireplace.
As I didn't have the unit in the house, I unpack the heat kits and I was quite surprised the poor quality. I attached couple pictures just to see the gap between the blower duct and the faceplate, unpainted parts, sharp corners, etc. Also, surprise to see the type of the screws which are be used. Not sure why they are doing this? I was lucky to find a torx bit in order to adjust the side brackets. Here are some pictures for reference.
I never installed a fireplace so I really appreciate any comment, suggestion, advice. We are building this house 100% ourselves so any change is in our hands.
Thank you.
upload_2019-4-15_16-9-33.png upload_2019-4-15_16-9-53.png upload_2019-4-15_16-10-3.png upload_2019-4-15_16-10-30.png
 
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saydinli

Burning Hunk
Nov 6, 2016
233
Near Fergus Ontario
Dont worry too much about the looks of casing for the remote fan, you don’t see any of it as it is in the wall. The louvred covers hide the metal case and the gaps. The screws are adequate for their purpose.

Also you might want to lower the remote duct to as close to the floor for best performance.








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Drewman

Member
Aug 10, 2015
80
Ohio
Welcome to the forum!! We love to see pictures so thanks for posting those!!

Some have mentioned a rattle when the remote kit fans were on, perhaps that gap will prevent that. We have two kits and both look similar, a bit of a gap on 3 sides and we don't get the vibration issue others have mentioned. Fireplace is much better quality :)

Are you installing an outside air kit (oak)? I am not sure the OAK is a must, but I did not see any line for that yet.

Good look on the undertaking! I could not imagine building my own home.
 

Rogerius

New Member
Jan 15, 2019
26
Grey County, ON
Finally we brought the fireplace inside the house. Quite a challenge to handle the 600lbs "beast" but we did it. Also, I got a chance to start the frame.

The question which I have is about the adaptor plate. I bought the chimney adaptor plate from the supplier but doesn't work because the pipe is raised above the top of the fireplace and it will create a gap so not possible to seal. Looks like I need to use it together with the adaptor plate which came with the fireplace. Is this correct? Do I need to use cement I assume in order to have a perfect seal? Here are a couple of pictures.

upload_2019-5-1_23-36-53.png upload_2019-5-1_23-37-19.png upload_2019-5-1_23-37-52.png upload_2019-5-1_23-38-21.png
 
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Rogerius

New Member
Jan 15, 2019
26
Grey County, ON
I found in the instructions that I need to use stove cement cement, so I used. In term of adaptor and anchor plates I couldn't find any info so I took the chance and installed as I mentioned above.
I run the heat kit on the left side as in the right side I left the room to run the chimney from the basement fireplace in case the future generations want an additional one there. Here are couple pictures.

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A big dilemma for me after looking at the chimney labels: I see the arrow on the label upside down. Doesn't make sense for me. I just added the rain cap and this is the way how the chimney parts fit together.
upload_2019-5-5_22-43-39.png

Also, looking at the chimney pieces, I see that the part on top has the inner pipe extend in the part below. Also, this doesn't make sense to me. The design have to be viceversa, the bottom piece to extend in the top piece, in direction of flow, no?

upload_2019-5-5_22-46-17.png upload_2019-5-5_22-47-6.png

Appreciate any comments.
Thank you.
 

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Ludlow

Minister of Fire
Jun 4, 2018
1,080
PA
Your pipe is going the correct direction. Think of the flow of wet creosote and how it can be kept from leaking out of the joints. Negative pressure in the chimney will take care of the smoke leaks that you fear but wont happen.
 

Rogerius

New Member
Jan 15, 2019
26
Grey County, ON
Your pipe is going the correct direction. Think of the flow of wet creosote and how it can be kept from leaking out of the joints. Negative pressure in the chimney will take care of the smoke leaks that you fear but wont happen.
I was hoping the arrow on the label will indicate the smoke direction or install direction.
 

begreen

Mooderator
Staff member
Nov 18, 2005
78,568
South Puget Sound, WA
The chimney pipe appears to be mislabeled. Are all the chimney sections labeled with UP towards the bottom? If so, give a call to Selkirk support and let them know.
For Technical Service - 1.800.748.0392 (press option 5)
 

begreen

Mooderator
Staff member
Nov 18, 2005
78,568
South Puget Sound, WA
Here are a couple images from the Supervent installation instructions. Note the orientation of the pipe.
Screen Shot 2019-05-06 at 10.31.42 AM.png Screen Shot 2019-05-06 at 10.31.19 AM.png
 

Rogerius

New Member
Jan 15, 2019
26
Grey County, ON
I was able to work a little bit at the install, so I added more chimney pipes. Looks good, but I see the fireplace top plate is deflecting quite a bit, almost 3/8". In order to prevent this, I installed one of the angle chimney support after the first piece, so the top plate will take the weight from just 1.5 pieces.
Also, I insulated the air ducts and build the frame around. Unfortunately I have to bring the air from the second level but will be in spec. The spec calls to be at minimum 5 ft from the end of chimney, Mine will be at 9 ft. Here are couple pictures.
upload_2019-5-26_23-0-38.png upload_2019-5-26_23-1-28.png upload_2019-5-26_23-2-23.png upload_2019-5-26_23-2-47.png
 
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Drewman

Member
Aug 10, 2015
80
Ohio
Looks real clean, nice work! It seems that most of us have ended up restricting our air intake so maybe being further away will help? Mine is only about 2 foot from the unit and I have metal tape over 2/3 of it, chimney terminates about 23 or 27 feet away. It was simply playing around with it the first season to see what worked best as far as taping over some of the outside air kit.

It seems like you are doing everything right the first time. Have you checked electrical yet to make sure your fans are working as you intended? My installer did not connect the main fan for some reason or rather disconnected it somehow. I requested a simulation before we stoned up the fireplace so he put a lighter but the thermo control switch to make sure it would kick on. My difficulty with the fans was that I wanted a switch it both rooms where the remote ducts terminated AND right beside the unit itself. So I have a bank of 3 switches by the fireplace, one for the main fan and two for the remote kits. Then I have a switch by both remote terminations that I can use as well. If you use aftermarket switch just be sure you get a fan switch instead of light switches!
 

Rogerius

New Member
Jan 15, 2019
26
Grey County, ON
Need some advice about wire/cable management for blowers and TV.
- Are you guys using the reqular NMD90 12/2 wire to feed the blowers? Looking at the spec, I see that the wire is rated up to 90C(194F). Is that enough? I don't have a feel what is the temp inside the chase enclosure.
- I saw couple pictures with PVC duct used inside to bring the cables for TV above the mantel. Is the PVC not considered combustible material? It'll start softening at 121C(250F).

Appreciate any suggestion.

Thx.
 

Pertzbro

Feeling the Heat
Aug 2, 2016
297
NW Iowa
You could always do steel conduit with flexible steel conduit inside the solid bar and then the wire. Might be overkill. I'd look at roxul insulation around wires and the junction box/wall boxes as well.
 

Rogerius

New Member
Jan 15, 2019
26
Grey County, ON
You could always do steel conduit with flexible steel conduit inside the solid bar and then the wire. Might be overkill. I'd look at roxul insulation around wires and the junction box/wall boxes as well.
Thanks Pertzbro for idea.


Spent more time at this install and have some questions.
- I was following the instructions and I can't see any comment about the gap between the bricks. After lay down all the bricks I see almost 1/4" gap between the bricks. Do I need to fill up that with sand or the ash will do it?
- The instructions also doesn't have any remark about the piece shown in the picture. Is it that installed correctly?
 

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Pertzbro

Feeling the Heat
Aug 2, 2016
297
NW Iowa
Thanks Pertzbro for idea.


Spent more time at this install and have some questions.
- I was following the instructions and I can't see any comment about the gap between the bricks. After lay down all the bricks I see almost 1/4" gap between the bricks. Do I need to fill up that with sand or the ash will do it?
- The instructions also doesn't have any remark about the piece shown in the picture. Is it that installed correctly?

No need to mess with sand. Ash will fill cracks.

That piece is called a boost manifold. I found that in a different stove manual but both manuals dont provide much details. I wouldnt have an idea but anyone w/ a PE stove/Fireplace should be able to provide some guidance.
 

Pertzbro

Feeling the Heat
Aug 2, 2016
297
NW Iowa
No need to mess with sand. Ash will fill cracks.

That piece is called a boost manifold. I found that in a different stove manual but both manuals dont provide much details. I wouldnt have an idea but anyone w/ a PE stove/Fireplace should be able to provide some guidance.

On second look, try putting the boost manifold up higher so the 6 holes in the stove line up to the 6 holes in the stainless steel? Possibly those 2 pegs hold it more in place?

maintenance4.jpg
 
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Mike.O

Member
Dec 20, 2017
111
..
On the last pic, the orientation of that piece is correct. I believe it should slide up and closer to the door, on top of that centered shelf. Two pegs should be there, one on each side and the piece should go on the door side of the pegs
 

begreen

Mooderator
Staff member
Nov 18, 2005
78,568
South Puget Sound, WA
On second look, try putting the boost manifold up higher so the 6 holes in the stove line up to the 6 holes in the stainless steel? Possibly those 2 pegs hold it more in place?
That's right, the bump in the front of the firebox is the boost manifold. The stainless boost manifold cover goes over this with the holes facing the back of the firebox. I think the 2 black pins are to hold it in place.