Stainless cover vs full chimney cap over masonry crown

[Kvic]

Brick Matching 101 – Masonry Magazine

www.masonrymagazine.com

I thought this was an interesting article.

Thanks, I have read through that. I knew I was in trouble when Rule 1 starts with "Begin your search as early as possible" instead of wait until you remove brick and realize they don't make that kind anymore.

 

[armanidog]

If you find some matching bricks that are a little too long, you could cut them to the right length.

 

[bholler]

If you find some matching bricks that are a little too long, you could cut them to the right length.

You could yes but you really don't want to

 

[Kvic]

You could yes but you really don't want to

I was wondering about doing this, but the only size that would work is a norman size which would most likely be a special order and not cost effective.

 

[Kvic]

Not having any luck on finding matching brick. Walked through a big yard last weekend, and saw a display in the yard that looked similar to our brick, but it was pavers. They are the same length and height, but 4 inches wide, just not sure if they would work in a vertical wall application, and would need enough space all the way around to set them in. Everything was modular, queen, a few norman, and pavers.

So here are what I see as my options, but if anyone has any other thoughts, I'm all ears.

1. Completely tear down the top 4 rows and reuse the best ones to fill in the holes and finish the fifth row. From there:
A. Find a similar color in modular brick and adjust the layout to complete the top 4 rows.
B. Use pavers (if acceptable for the application) for the top 4 rows. Will need to clean out some of the crap inside to make room.
C. Use a transition row of concrete colored brick/block that would overhang 1/2" all the way around, then use modular size set back 1/2" to complete the top 3 rows. I'm thinking the overhang of the poured crown would blend in the transition row. Saw some split face stuff at the yard that seemed like it would work. It was in longer pieces about 3" high and 4" wide. I can see it in my head, but need to draw it out, or find a free design tool.

2. Least favorite idea. Tear down to flashing and rebuild with similar color modular size brick. Or tear down to row at highest point of flashing and build up with modular size from there.

 

[armanidog]

"A" is what I would do. New brick will have a different color anyway due to the weathering and soot on the older brick.

 

[Kvic]

"A" is what I would do. New brick will have a different color anyway due to the weathering and soot on the older brick.

This is probably the way I will go.
After thinking about it, I realized that the pavers would throw off the design as well since they are 3/8" wider, which would require making the joints narrower for the brick to fit without trimming some down. That would throw off the joints lining up with the lower courses just enough to drive me crazy.

 

[clancey]

Interesting article --thanks...I think I would chose A too but i know very little about brickwork just to say its looks "strong" and "lasting" and gives good protection...I know what you mean by something being even a little off and it would drive you crazy--me too--but my whole house is a little off--lol old clancey

 

[bholler]

This is probably the way I will go.
After thinking about it, I realized that the pavers would throw off the design as well since they are 3/8" wider, which would require making the joints narrower for the brick to fit without trimming some down. That would throw off the joints lining up with the lower courses just enough to drive me crazy.

There are absolutely times I have to do an accent band of some sort then change brick so it looks right. There are times there just is no other reasonable option.

 

[Kvic]

Interesting article --thanks...I think I would chose A too but i know very little about brickwork just to say its looks "strong" and "lasting" and gives good protection...I know what you mean by something being even a little off and it would drive you crazy--me too--but my whole house is a little off--lol old clancey

I didn't know much about brickwork either when I started this, and still don't, but learning a lot during this crash course in chimney repair.
Definitely thankful for all the insight and advice from the forum. Going to need a lot more before it's all done I'm sure.

 

[fire_man]

I didn't know much about brickwork either when I started this, and still don't, but learning a lot during this crash course in chimney repair.
Definitely thankful for all the insight and advice from the forum. Going to need a lot more before it's all done I'm sure.

Your asking good questions and I'm looking forward to when you pour the crown!

 

[Kvic]

Finally have an update. After looking for matching brick (that I wouldn't have to order build a house) for way too long, on advice from one of the brickyards, decided to find something that could be stained to match. Realized that the brick I already had was same base color, so after all that, went with what I already had. Looked terrible when I placed it in the space where I had removed a cracked brick last year, but was time to finish it up. Removed the top 3 courses of old brick and was able to salvage enough to fill in the rest of the 4th course, and all the spots where I removed cracked brick. Took some trial and error working with the river sand mortar that didn't lay like the mortar in the youtube videos, but finally got it done.

Repointing took way too long. Wasted 2 days and a lot of mortar trying to use a mortar bag. River sand was just too coarse without adding way too much water. Videos recommended adding more portland to the mix, but was concerned it might be too strong of a mix for the brick. Used a concave pointer to repoint from there, but realized a little too late that I should have used a flat pointer to fill the gap and the concave to finish it off. Using the concave pointer was messy, and with the rough texture, got a lot more mortar on the edges of the brick. Tried to clean with water and stainless brush, but wasn't very effective, so did a final clean with the Klean Strip Green muriatic acid. Still left some mortar residue along the edges, but in the end it actually helped to blend/hide some of the gray sealant previous owner had used to seal cracks that wouldn't come off.

If the old brick were not covered with some type of sealant which has given a slight sheen and dulled the color, I think it would actually match better than it does.

Pouring the crown was easier than expected, especially with help from some friends. Used heavy mil plastic for the bond break, and should have cut it off at the drip edge, but let it overhang and placed side boards of the form over it. Created some rough edges, but not terrible. Used a hammer drill with blunt tip to vibrate the sides as recommended in a video, but still have some pock marks, but no major honeycombing.

Big thanks for all the advice and encouragement.

 

[vbu]

Just read through your whole thread. Kudos to you for seeing it through, looks great!