1. No not really but I prefer to. You don't want to do it after repointing.Couple of questions. More to come I'm sure.
1. All the estimates included pressure washing, do I need to do that before I start grinding the joints out?
2. Any tips on removing caulk from brick?
Thanks bholler. I've tried wire brushing some places with caulk, and the regular silicone type comes off with some effort, but they used a gray colored type that doesn't budge.1. No not really but I prefer to. You don't want to do it after repointing.
2. It is a real pain and sometimes simply can't be done.
4 1/2" angle grinder with diamond blade. Picked that up from a post on your thread.What did you use to grind it down to brick? Looks Good.
I just use a sheet of plastic under the crown.Got most of the old mortar off the brick and ground down some of the high spots, is it flat/clean enough?
Do I need to do anything else to the top before prepping for new crown? I was wondering if I should try to clear an expansion space around the whole flue tile, or will it be ok as is? I was considering filling the void next to the flue with rock wool (would do it all the way around if I need to create an expansion) and then using aluminum flashing as the bond break, overlapping two 20" wide sheets. Sill seal around the flue.
After reading through some more old threads, came across one on creosote that made me check inside the flue. I know I haven't had it cleaned in the 2+ years we've been here. When we got the estimate for install, they said they would clean it, and when they came back out to look at the flex liner said the installers would have done it if it looked dirty. Below are the pictures from the top and below. Not looking very clean. Is that creosote buildup on mortar, or all creosote in the close up?
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That's one thing that might actually be easy. What are your thoughts on the flue and smoke chamber?I just use a sheet of plastic under the crown.
It's hard to tell from the pics but it doesn't look very dirtyThat's one thing that might actually be easy. What are your thoughts on the flue and smoke chamber?
A flue tile should absolutely never be mortared in. The cores could be filled but there really would be no benifit.If that was my chimney I would fill all the voids with type n mortar and slick it off before I started on a cap. The holes in the brick as well as the spot between the flue and the cmu. If the mortar seems to be falling into a never ending abyss stuff a little rock wool a few inches down and use it as a backer.
That's just what I would do... Maybe overkill.
Thanks. It didn't look bad compared to some of the pictures I looked up, but when I zoomed in on the middle of the flue, it looked worse. I just don't have any experience so wanted to see what you guys with experience thought.It's hard to tell from the pics but it doesn't look very dirty
I was considering that where the dummy flue was, but didn't know if it was necessary since the crown will cover it all up.If that was my chimney I would fill all the voids with type n mortar and slick it off before I started on a cap. The holes in the brick as well as the spot between the flue and the cmu. If the mortar seems to be falling into a never ending abyss stuff a little rock wool a few inches down and use it as a backer.
That's just what I would do... Maybe overkill.
Just make sure you cut out any bad head joints on the top course before you pour the crown. They are a real pain after.I was considering that where the dummy flue was, but didn't know if it was necessary since the crown will cover it all up.
My plan is to pressure wash the brick next, then grind out all the joints, replace cracked bricks and repoint, and then pour the crown.Just make sure you cut out any bad head joints on the top course before you pour the crown. They are a real pain after.
Maybe expecting too much, but hoping someone might be able to give me an idea of mortar mix based on the pictures from the existing mortar. Based on what I have found online, and affirmed by the sales rep at the masonry supply, it's made with river sand. I asked if he thought type N or O for 1965 home, and he said probably type N because that's pretty much what they use these days. Trying to get this right so I don't have to worry about it again for a long time, and don't want to mess it up by using the wrong mortar mix. From what I've read and watched, short of sending it off to be analyzed, I can't know the exactly. Can't afford to send it off, so hoping the experienced might be able to shed some light, and send me down the right path.
First is a cross section from one of the joints I ground out. Second is the bottom a broken brick I took out to take on my journey to find brick. Third is a close up of existing mortar on the side of the house. Also added a picture of the brick I'll be using.
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Thank you. Some day I may get to that point, looks like lots of rain ahead.Whatever river sand you have available in your area and grey mortar type n
What ratio would you suggest? Searching the web for type n I see the most common ratio of 1 cement: 1 lime: 6 sand.Whatever river sand you have available in your area and grey mortar type n
3 to 1 sand to mortar mix. And yes buy mortar mix not cement and lime.What ratio would you suggest? Searching the web for type n I see the most common ratio of 1 cement: 1 lime: 6 sand.
Is the portland/lime type n mix ok, or better to get everything separate and mix from scratch? And looks like a quarter ton of river sand is the least amount I can get local.
If you have some leftover sand you can make a sandbox, fill some cat boxes, or spread it on ice during the winter. Do not add it to clay soil in a garden , you will end up with brick soil.What ratio would you suggest? Searching the web for type n I see the most common ratio of 1 cement: 1 lime: 6 sand.
Is the portland/lime type n mix ok, or better to get everything separate and mix from scratch? And looks like a quarter ton of river sand is the least amount I can get local.
Thanks for the ideas. Yes, I think I'll have some left over even with extra waste from the learning curve. If my calculations were right I only have about 65 square feet to repoint.If you have some leftover sand you can make a sandbox, fill some cat boxes, or spread it on ice during the winter. Do not add it to clay soil in a garden , you will end up with brick soil.
Thank you again. So much to learn, so little time. I'm thankful for the knowledge base here and willingness to help. If I followed the info I found online I assume the mortar would end up being too weak, and more problems down the road?3 to 1 sand to mortar mix. And yes buy mortar mix not cement and lime.
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