St criox owners please help

[heat seeker]

I try to set the heat level where the stove will idle the least. So, if it's relatively warm outside, I'll use level 3, if it's colder out, I'll use level 4 if level 3 won't keep the heat up where I want it. I never use level 5 - too much for the area I'm heating (2200 sq. ft. colonial).
I have no firm data, but the stove seems to be the most efficient at level 3. Seems to give the most heat for the amount of pellets burned.

 

[TimfromMA]

I keep the stove on 3 all the time. If the outside temperature is in the 20s or colder, Ill use t stat mode since I know the house will cool relatively quickly when the stove idles.

 

[RobertNH]

I have it starting and running pretty well now, on manual..
Had to trim the draft up and open the draft inlet a bit.

Problem now is no re-start in smart mode..
The oven temp is now reading a solid 200* (coming up from 150*) hanging over the air grate.

I'm believing it's now going out in idle...
Next is to test it in T-stat..

 

[RobertNH]

Can you tell me where this proof of fire sensor is?
Should it be cleaned?

 

[heat seeker]

It is located on the side of the combustion blower housing. It doesn't need cleaning, but make sure that it is making good physical contact with the housing.

If the room blower is coming on after the fire is going, maybe 5 minutes after startup, and the blower shuts off when the stove cools down, the sensor is likely okay.

It closes at about 110ºF, opens at 90ºF.

It looks like this: (broken link removed to http://www.ebay.com/itm/Proof-of-Fire-Low-Limit-Switch-Pellet-Stove-Snap-Disc-St-Croix-Instructions-/121189478523?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c3774b07b)

 

[RobertNH]

Thank you! That answers a question.
It's not something that would be effected by fly ash.

I just got a start.

After stopping by the dealer and having a conversation with them, they felt I was pushing to much air.
They suggested tuning down the damper and tuning up the feed.
I tuned up the feed.
Non start.

When thinking about this a bit, I thought maybe not shut down the damper, but tune down the blower and open the damper.
If I'm pushing too much air past the sensor, then how about slowing the exhaust blower and open the intake damper.
Well, it started!
Now to see if it restarts in 'T stat' mode...

Pushing 200* out the grate (by my oven temperature gauge), very nice color flame.
Still think it's a bit big of a flame, but then again, what the heck do I know.. this stove is new to me..

I have a long run on my OAK, so opening the damper made some sense.
Slowing the exhaust blower did as well.
We shall see...

Once again, thank you for your assistance!

 

[heat seeker]

You're welcome! How did you slow the exhaust blower?

 

[bogieb]

I'm now on the Thermostat.
I'm still fine tuning and find I don't change the air output.
What changes is the fan speed and how long it maintains.

I've placed my magnetic flue thermometer on the air grate and I'm pushing a constant 150*
Same reading as the oven thermometer I had hanging there..
Infra-red reads 200-250* inside the grate (highest at 278*)
I think I'm at what it will do.
Now it's getting it to re-start in auto.. Shut down last night..

Getting very close here.
I do believe my masonry chimney is my issue with tuning.

I finally picked up a thermometer yesterday, but have to have it sitting on the decorative door (swung open a bit), to get it in the airstream - it reads 225 on setting 3. Keep in mind this is not placed where others have theirs, but 2-3" away from the stove itself so is probably hotter inside the grate. Oh, also, using a different brand of pellets, so need to adjust the damper a bit to get the sharp tips on the flames back.

 

[RobertNH]

To adjust the Combustion Fan voltages:
Press and hold the Auger Feed button, then press the Trim High or Low button. This will
change the fan voltage approximately 2.5 volts up or down from the factory setting.
Watch the LED lights to see the setting is on (it will flash the new setting). This new
setting will stay in memory from this point on. Use these adjustments in conjunction
with the damper.

 

[RobertNH]

I finally picked up a thermometer yesterday, but have to have it sitting on the decorative door (swung open a bit), to get it in the airstream - it reads 225 on setting 3. Keep in mind this is not placed where others have theirs, but 2-3" away from the stove itself so is probably hotter inside the grate. Oh, also, using a different brand of pellets, so need to adjust the damper a bit to get the sharp tips on the flames back.

That's about where I have mine, though the Element is setup a little different.
Had a good run over night with the new settings and reading just over 200* at the air grate.
I have a infra-red and shot that inside the grate, I'll get readings reaching 300*

Seems I may be up to what you all have now.

 

[RobertNH]

Argh... and it was running so nice..

We lost power and now I'm worried something bad happened..
Wouldn't believe so since it does run.. just not as good..

It's been cold, so I've been creeping her along.
I'm going to shut her down today, cool her down, check what program she's on and re-set everything again.

Thankfully this time I wrote it all down.

What I still can't get going is the thermostat!
Red to Rh (Rh on the thermostat)
Black to W (white on the thermostat)
Right??

 

[TimfromMA]

Did you have the stove plugged into a surge protector?

 

[bogieb]

I don't think the power outage will have an affect. I had several flickers and downright outages a couple of weeks ago and nothing happened besides the stove shut off until the power came on. Didn't even have it on a surge protector at the time (do now until I put it on a UPS).

 

[RobertNH]

Yes, but not a 'Big Boy'...
I just went back to manual mode..

Just did a re-start in manual to see if I get it back.

I put in a service request with St Croix..
Week plus and no call..
I'm trying real hard not to get pissed, but...

 

[RobertNH]

You guys have a direct number to service?
I can't find one..
I'm heading back to the Dealer Monday to get the Rep's number.

 

[RobertNH]

I have a run!

What I've done:
Manual mode
Program 4
Heat 2 0r 3
Draft blower on 2
Manual draft wide open
Feed up 1 (4)

I'm pleased with the heat output and can work with this.
I do have a masonry chimney, so I do know I need to tune to it.

Just wish the thermostat would work..
Then I could go programmable and have what I hoped for..

Do I have the wiring correct?
Heck I have everything else this way and it works...
I'm missing something..

Red to Rh
Black to white (common)
Right?

 

[RobertNH]

Manual draft half way now
Feed on normal (3)
Heat setting 2

Still running, but on Manual...
150* on the top of the stove, so good heat coming out.

The stove works, just not on thermostat yet..
Well.. I haven't gone a re-start..
Fingers crossed..

 

[bogieb]

Hoping it works for you! (sorry I can't be any more help than to be your cheering section)

 

[hossthehermit]

Well, everybody is on the programmable digitified wireless remote 'stat wagon ................. I been using this since original install .............. if the boss wants it warmer in here, she turns it up ....... if it's too hot, she turns it down ...................
(broken link removed to http://www.luxproducts.com/thermostats/t101141.php)

I set the swing at 2, got two wires on two terminals, don't make no never mind which is which ........
but hey, it don't work with the laptop ...... oh, right, she ain't got one-a-them, either..........

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Argh... and it was running so nice..

We lost power and now I'm worried something bad happened..
Wouldn't believe so since it does run.. just not as good..

It's been cold, so I've been creeping her along.
I'm going to shut her down today, cool her down, check what program she's on and re-set everything again.

Thankfully this time I wrote it all down.

What I still can't get going is the thermostat!
Red to Rh (Rh on the thermostat)
Black to W (white on the thermostat)
Right??

Most stoves reset when their power goes south or another direction but stays on. So trim setting and heat levels go bye bye and have to be reset when the juice comes back on.

 

[TimfromMA]

St Croix stoves do that

 

[heat seeker]

That's why it pays to write the setting down once you have them.

 

[Pheasant Hollow Farm]

I have a run!

What I've done:
Manual mode
Program 4
Heat 2 0r 3
Draft blower on 2
Manual draft wide open
Feed up 1 (4)

I'm pleased with the heat output and can work with this.
I do have a masonry chimney, so I do know I need to tune to it.

Just wish the thermostat would work..
Then I could go programmable and have what I hoped for..

Do I have the wiring correct?
Heck I have everything else this way and it works...
I'm missing something..

Red to Rh
Black to white (common)
Right?

Yes, you have the wiring right.
If you have a Braeburn T-stat, I am willing to bet that is your problem. Try a different type. The only one that would work for me is the old style Honeywell Merc 2wire T-stat. 2* temp swing and Ihaven't had a KNOCK on WOOD problem yet. T-stat set on 72* and when it calls for heat it starts right up.

I keep mine on the T-stat mode, Not the Smart-stat mode .

Steve
Pheasant Hollow Farm

 

[RobertNH]

That was just weird..
Shut down this morning before I could re-load.
For 'S&G's' I checked the program mode.
It was on 1...

I re-set to 3 and had a non-start..
Once cooled down I'll go back to program 4

Forgot to check the feed rate and see if that changed as well...

 

[RobertNH]

Yes, you have the wiring right.
If you have a Braeburn T-stat, I am willing to bet that is your problem. Try a different type. The only one that would work for me is the old style Honeywell Merc 2wire T-stat. 2* temp swing and Ihaven't had a KNOCK on WOOD problem yet. T-stat set on 72* and when it calls for heat it starts right up.

I keep mine on the T-stat mode, Not the Smart-stat mode .

Steve
Pheasant Hollow Farm

Yes I do have that T-stat wired up.
It came with it..
I also have tried a Honeywell Programmable (not wire-less)

Thank you for confirming the wiring!
I felt I had that right.

I've read some programmable's need 24v line voltage to run..
Anyone know what the line voltage is?
I'm going to put my DMM on it and check myself today.
I also have an older one upstairs that is only used as a thermometer...
May switch that one and try. (but I need clean start ups)