Hell no! I've been up there once (or twice?), and my arse puckers tight enough to crush diamond, just shimmying the last few steps from the top of the ladder up the chimney side, to inspect the cap. A 40' ladder stops about 2 - 3 feet shy of the crown at full extension, and as scary as those photos look, it's 20x worse looking down from up there.Joful...do you get up there?
When I get near the cap, I feel with the soot eater rod to hit the cap before running the drill, now I know I'm in the cap area for sure and like you said , work it well.. What a handy tool that has turned out to be... who'd ever think a weed whacker would one day clean your chimney That's it, we'll make an attachment so a weed whacker can be used to run the Soot EaterWhen I used my Sooteater I cleaned from the top down on our Jotul F 600. Later, when I cleaned the short stove pipe in my lower level on my Woodstock Classic (single wall pipe connects through a thimble into a clay liner) I took the four foot long section of pipe and its two 90 degree elbows outside to clean with the Sooteater and a wire brush. After seeing how well the Sooteater cleaned that section of pipe I came away thinking that you probably could do a somewhat reasonable job of cleaning the inside of your rain cap if you cleaned from the bottom up. You would want to be sure you got the Sooteater head fully to the top of the cap and you'd want to spend some extra time moving it up and down just a foot or so to give the lines a good chance to knock free any built up creosote. If you had someone outside with binoculars watching your cap as you worked it would be even better.
I think it would lie on the baffle, unless U could figure a way to get a vacuum up in there to suck it out. Would it burn up ? IDKFor you top-downers, are you concerned about the crud accumulating at the bottom?
It seems like it would lie on the baffle, and maybe just burn up?
I think that would be best, too. I just can't figure out how to get that double-walled pipe apart!I think it would lie on the baffle, unless U could figure a way to get a vacuum up in there to suck it out. Would it burn up ? IDK
I will be taking the pipe apart and put a bag on, so that doesn't happen
When I used my Sooteater I cleaned from the top down on our Jotul F 600. Later, when I cleaned the short stove pipe in my lower level on my Woodstock Classic (single wall pipe connects through a thimble into a clay liner) I took the four foot long section of pipe and its two 90 degree elbows outside to clean with the Sooteater and a wire brush. After seeing how well the Sooteater cleaned that section of pipe I came away thinking that you probably could do a somewhat reasonable job of cleaning the inside of your rain cap if you cleaned from the bottom up. You would want to be sure you got the Sooteater head fully to the top of the cap and you'd want to spend some extra time moving it up and down just a foot or so to give the lines a good chance to knock free any built up creosote. If you had someone outside with binoculars watching your cap as you worked it would be even better.
Use common sense and spin the soot eater slower while working the cap.. I'd say the wire will be like a knife edge to the whips, but would still just use your drill on a slower speed once at the cap...Do you feel that the Sooteater will not bust out the mesh in the rain cap?
I was just assuming that the force from the spinning whips would rip holes in the mesh.
Of course there is not much sense in cleaning the flue all the way up and then NOT being able to clean the cap too.
. TOOOOO FUNNY,Hell no! I've been up there once (or twice?), and my arse puckers tight enough to crush diamond, just shimmying the last few steps from the top of the ladder up the chimney side, to inspect the cap. A 40' ladder stops about 2 - 3 feet shy of the crown at full extension, and as scary as those photos look, it's 20x worse looking down from up there.
I pay someone to go up there... because I enjoy not being dead.
I pay someone to go up there... because I enjoy not being dead.
My father owned a small structural / civil / architectural engineering firm, when I was growing up. They received a contract to build a new stadium for the local high school, which was seeing record attendance in those days. During the project, a man fell from one of the lighting towers and was killed, which must have left a lasting impression on me. It turned out this man was the father of one of my school friends.
I too used to be a house builder...and seen my share of mishaps...I'm afraid of heights...and just turned 35 years of what I do for a living haha
I'm curious ,I just installed a Lopi RepublicI did my annual cleaning with Sooteater. More than I wanted to see but this years fuel is especially dry so we'll see how it goes. I did a more thorough cleaning of cap this time so that might have contributed to volume. You can't really tell from picture but it was quite brown overall in color so that is encouraging.
The Endeavor has a bypass that allows you to go straight up the back of the stove. If you notice, the secondary tubes are still in place on that pic. Il so do vacuum up between the baffle and flue at the edges of the bypass.I'm curious ,I just installed a Lopi Republic
Do you remove the baffle bricks(edit , I guess U must have) and ,do you vacuum or brush off the crap that lands in top of the baffle plate in the back
Ok ,I forgot the Endeavor has a bypassThe Endeavor has a bypass that allows you to go straight up the back of the stove. If you notice, the secondary tubes are still in place on that pic. Il so do vacuum up between the baffle and flue at the edges of the bypass.
The republic does require a baffle brick removal, if I'm not mistaken. Or you could take out the flue pipe. Should say in the manual.
If you have a telescoping pipe, then that's the way to go.Ok ,I forgot the Endeavor has a bypass
I have had everything in the top of my stove removed , and yes it, does require removing the baffle bricks, but I might just pull the pipe up ,put on a bag and avoid the crap falling in the stove
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