Skier76 said:
Casbeck said:
I'm also looking at the Castine but not convinced it's the best choice for our 1300 SQ ft renovated farmhouse. We bought a used series 3 stove but my hubby thinks it's not big enough and the wood will have to be so short.
As a Woman (wife), believe it or not, I care a lot more about efficiency and ease-of-use than looks. I don't want to mess with the fire. I want it to burn long and start up from coals in the morning. That said, if performance is equal, and it's going in the living room, better looking is good!
I like the PE Spectum or Classic, but didn't like the tale posted by recent purchase of the Pacific Energy stove.
http://www.topschools.com/PacificEnergyWoodStoves.htm
I am new to the Steel vs cast-iron controversy...what do you all recommend for us?
thanks
Christine
Just going off the Jotul specs from the Jotule website:
Castine: 1,100 - 1,500 sq. ft.
Oslo: 1,500 - 1,800 sq. ft.
Just based on those numbers (and nothing else) seems you'd almost be at the upper limit of what the Castine is rated for. If you want Jotul...maybe the Oslo would be a better choice? It seems a lot of people here are happy with theirs.
I agree with Skier . . . if you like the Castine, I think you might want to consider the Oslo. You didn't mention how well insulated the farmhouse is or not, but in either case, it's been said before and it will be said again, but it's far, far easier to build a small fire in a large firebox if you just need a little bit of heat than it is to try to build a large fire in a small firebox. One of the best nuggets of advice I received here at hearth.com when looking for my own woodstove was to figure out what size you need and then go one size larger -- you may never need to run the larger stove full bore most of the time, but on those sub-zero nights when the heat is really needed it's nice to be able to have that option of running the woodstove a little stronger. In addition, running a woodstove full bore all the time can be taxing -- consuming more wood and frustrating you . . . plus running straight out puts one more at risk at over-firing the stove.
Pacific Energy: I wouldn't let one story influence your decision on picking a particular stove or model. Take a look at the stove review section here at hearth.com -- it's quite useful. Any business or product will have its fans and detractors -- some with glowing, gushy stories of how great something is and others with stories of how awful something is -- the trick is to see what the majority of folks think about the company or product. And to tell the truth, with any product or company you're bound to have some poor products or experiences -- even the best companies and people have the occasional bad day or the problem in manufacturing -- the trick is to determine if this is a rare occurence or not. I suspect you'll find that PE is generally held in pretty high regard here . . . ditto for Jotul . . . ditto for Englander . . . ditto for many manufacturers. In fact, PE was on my short list of stove prospects.
Steel vs. cast iron vs. soapstone: Ah, the Great Debate . . . or one of the great debates . . . the other debates being Stihl vs. Husky vs. Dolmar, Cats vs. secondary combustion, Poly chimney brush vs. steel chimney brush and is Pook an alien left behind or just a guy that is misunderstood
. . . my own take -- each has its place and each has their fans and detractors. Folks will argue passionately in favor of one type of building material over another . . . but the truth is . . . all stoves produce meaningful heat that will keep you warm.
Beware the Ides of March . . . I mean Beware of the Numbers: As you're searching through the literature you'll see data given by manufacturers listing out how long the stove will burn and how much space it will heat. Be aware . . . these numbers may not reflect the real world experience. Use them as a guideline, but don't fully trust them. I mean, yes, the Castine may heat X amount of space . . . but will it heat that same amount of space in your home if the house has a minimal amount of insulation, routinely gets high winds and sub-zero temps, your home has lots of windows or has an open lay-out vs. a closed lay out, etc. . . . there are a lot of other factors to consider. In the same way, burn times are very subjective . . . does the manufacturer consider burn time the time from when the fire is lit to the time the coals are cool, the time of meaningful heat (say 500 degrees at the stove) to when there is no more meaningful heat, the time when . . . well you get the picture . . . there is no real defined definition . . . so don't buy Stove X and fully expect it to heat Y amount of space and burn Z amount of time.
Jotul: You mention the Castine. As mentioned earlier, if you like the Castine I would encourage you to look at the Oslo. I also considered the Castine, but went a size larger and I have been very happy. I have been able to heat my entire home . . . a surprise since I thought I would only be able to heat a portion of my home. Things I like: very easy to use (i.e. start a fire, maintain a fire), classic cast iron look, burns clean, efficient (like most EPA stoves you will burn less wood and burn cleaner which is good for the environment, your health and it means less time cleaning chimneys) and bullet-proof reliability. The two things I dislike: the front door often spills ash on to the hearth which can be inconvenient (fortunately this stove also has a side door) and it does not provide as long a burn time as I was hoping . . . although when I go to bed at 10 p.m. and wake up around 5:30 a.m. there usually are enough coals to get a fire going with some kindling. Normally I get 3-5 hours of meaningful heat out of a load -- perhaps I will do better this year with better wood.