excellent. all my wood has been C/S/S for a minimum of 6 months. so its all eligible for proper solar kiln.
Yes your ready to go.
Thats plenty
excellent. all my wood has been C/S/S for a minimum of 6 months. so its all eligible for proper solar kiln.
how long is a run?
Where do you cut holes and how to make sure that no water can get in those holesMy solar kiln, was made from the big box store wood racks as an experiment to see if i could season hardwoods like @Poindexter has done with softwoods.
Materials used were wood racks, 2x4 pressure treated, 6 mil clear plastic, a small roap, contractors stretch wrap and a staple gun
My wood racks were 5 inches above ground and sitting on 2x4 for a total of aprox 8 inches. I secured some two-by-fours on the ends and tied a rope between them making a roof over the top I put plastic around the racks and secured the bottom of the plastic to the first row of firewood with contractors stretch wrap and some Staples I cut in 3 vents to on either end approximately the size of a grapefruit and one smaller one in the middle this would was split in May and sat on the racks until the week of July 8th in which I started the kilm all of my splits were large 6 to7 in thick and 18 in Long and those splits at in the kiln until October when I open the Kiln the Cherry splits were down to approximately 2% and all of the oak was down to 9% so given that you could easily do two runs with in a rack
The way that the kiln needs to be set up for Hardwoods is you need it in a full sun area you do not want the venting to be too much as you want the temperatures to get extremely warm within the kiln it does need to vent the moisture out so typically my kiln Ran from anywhere from 110 degrees and I've gotten it as high as 121 degrees
The first day I ran my kiln it was a cooler day no more than 76 degrees and within a couple of hours of setting up the kiln it was over a 110. I used an air probe for my smoker to measure the internal temperature of the Kiln at various points.
I did all of this to see if I ever get jammed up that I could actually season a Year's worth of firewood over the course of the summer I also did another experiment with nothing but Oak and even larger splits those splits started in the upper 30s to low 40s and I got them down to sub 20% moisture content in 2 months
View attachment 231154 View attachment 231155
Where do you cut holes and how to make sure that no water can get in those holes
Can you post more pictures from different angles? Do you have any pictures of the rack and stack before wrapping?
WS67, you are creating a revolution!Check out post 15. Thats what itlooks like, thats how the wood is stacked nothing special. It can be any rack all wood bottom, metal ends it dosent matter the lenth could be 20ft, 16, 8ft. You can do 3 racks deep and 6ft high. One kiln 20long 4.5 wide and 6ft high will yeald 4.21 cords per run.
I dont have additional pics as i had no plans to start a thread like this. I will do a better job of this in the future and will be able to post more indepth
I encourage you to experiment with it. The worst thing that happened to me was my cherry was 2% and my oak was 9%. . You really cant go wrong. Your woods not going to spontaneously explode it's either going to be perfectly seasoned a little under seasoned or a little over seasoned. Eather way.. you've made progress and learnd something and now you know for next time.
WS67, you are creating a revolution!
Poindexter came before you, but he was a little too intellectual (or maybe a lot) for the masses. It's often the reluctant who spark such things.
I've wanted a kiln system myself for a few years now. But you did it.
I hope to see shrink wrapped woodstacks popping up everywhere soon.
Good work!
Check out post 15. Thats what itlooks like, thats how the wood is stacked nothing special. It can be any rack all wood bottom, metal ends it dosent matter the lenth could be 20ft, 16, 8ft. You can do 3 racks deep and 6ft high. One kiln 20long 4.5 wide and 6ft high will yeald 4.21 cords per run.
I dont have additional pics as i had no plans to start a thread like this. I will do a better job of this in the future and will be able to post more indepth
I encourage you to experiment with it. The worst thing that happened to me was my cherry was 2% and my oak was 9%. . You really cant go wrong. Your woods not going to spontaneously explode it's either going to be perfectly seasoned a little under seasoned or a little over seasoned. Eather way.. you've made progress and learnd something and now you know for next time.
Let us know when you do a new run in Spring. And please take lots of pics for people who are not so handy like me.
I’d like to run a trial test at the same time with you in Spring. Then we can compare the results.
Did I read somewhere that you tried the same thing over winter with not much for results ??Ok.. rhats cool.. im going to do white oak.. and im going to do it 2 kind of ways..
Ok.. rhats cool.. im going to do white oak.. and im going to do it 2 kind of ways..
Are you going to burn those as is or let them regain moisture?Check out post 15. Thats what itlooks like, thats how the wood is stacked nothing special. It can be any rack all wood bottom, metal ends it dosent matter the lenth could be 20ft, 16, 8ft. You can do 3 racks deep and 6ft high. One kiln 20long 4.5 wide and 6ft high will yeald 4.21 cords per run.
I dont have additional pics as i had no plans to start a thread like this. I will do a better job of this in the future and will be able to post more indepth
I encourage you to experiment with it. The worst thing that happened to me was my cherry was 2% and my oak was 9%. . You really cant go wrong. Your woods not going to spontaneously explode it's either going to be perfectly seasoned a little under seasoned or a little over seasoned. Eather way.. you've made progress and learnd something and now you know for next time.
Are you going to burn those as is or let them regain moisture?
Have you treid this over winter ? Results ?I burned some of it.. that stuff caught quick and burned really well.. i didnt burn it all though.. im sure its regained some moisture
Have you treid this over winter ? Results ?
Ok, Thanks..The kiln need to get warm.. winter sun and cold temps are not ideal
My solar kiln, was made from the big box store wood racks as an experiment to see if i could season hardwoods like @Poindexter has done with softwoods.
Materials used were wood racks, 2x4 pressure treated, 6 mil clear plastic, a small roap, contractors stretch wrap and a staple gun
My wood racks were 5 inches above ground and sitting on 2x4 for a total of aprox 8 inches. I secured some two-by-fours on the ends and tied a rope between them making a roof over the top I put plastic around the racks and secured the bottom of the plastic to the first row of firewood with contractors stretch wrap and some Staples I cut in 3 vents to on either end approximately the size of a grapefruit and one smaller one in the middle this would was split in May and sat on the racks until the week of July 8th in which I started the kilm all of my splits were large 6 to7 in thick and 18 in Long and those splits at in the kiln until October when I open the Kiln the Cherry splits were down to approximately 2% and all of the oak was down to 9% so given that you could easily do two runs with in a rack
The way that the kiln needs to be set up for Hardwoods is you need it in a full sun area you do not want the venting to be too much as you want the temperatures to get extremely warm within the kiln it does need to vent the moisture out so typically my kiln Ran from anywhere from 110 degrees and I've gotten it as high as 121 degrees
The first day I ran my kiln it was a cooler day no more than 76 degrees and within a couple of hours of setting up the kiln it was over a 110. I used an air probe for my smoker to measure the internal temperature of the Kiln at various points.
I did all of this to see if I ever get jammed up that I could actually season a Year's worth of firewood over the course of the summer I also did another experiment with nothing but Oak and even larger splits those splits started in the upper 30s to low 40s and I got them down to sub 20% moisture content in 2 months
View attachment 231154 View attachment 231155
You know I'm a big fan of your work, PD. I'm just way too lazy (or worn out from other stuff that requires attention) to do a build that requires too much effort.@ED 3000 , point well taken.
I posted a link to a journal article in one of my threads about how hot how fast. The guys running lumber kilns trying to make finished boards keep the kiln temperature below 95dF until the wood starts to shrink.
When your stacks are moving, tipping, leaning, whatever, when they are shrinking you have all the water out of the sap tubules and it is "time" to turn up the heat.
As burners we aren't too terribly worried about warping and cupping and end grain checking. The folks with a kiln full of clear mahogany are worried about that. So it could be we could let out kilns get hotter sooner then those guys, but is is a place to start.
FWIW I keep my kilns internal temp below 95dF until I see shrinkage. I have zero data on what the limit really is. If you have a split that measures 15% MC on the outside and 30+%MC on the inside, you turned your kiln temperature up too soon.
The kiln need to get warm.. winter sun and cold temps are not ideal
I like this idea more and more. I may relocate to another state in a few years. A cheap kiln will keep the wood stockpile low and prevent overinvestment.
I suppose if I had roots and plenty of acres it wouldn’t matter much, but in my situation a kiln makes much more sense than stockpiling 3 years of wood.
Did I read somewhere that you tried the same thing over winter with not much for results ??
I'm working up a couple of cords of Standing dead Oak, and was thinking of wrapping it, then was thinking just top cover for winter ??
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