Well, it might be worth a test just to see.
How do you start a fire? Have you tried top-down lighting?
How do you start a fire? Have you tried top-down lighting?
Well, it might be worth a test just to see.
How do you start a fire? Have you tried top-down lighting?
To save i would start with flue probe good wood and preheat. Let us know how it works out. But my basement testing indicates you can change the pipes all you want and move the stove closer and its still going to have cold pipe sydrome...You already have double wall near the adapter and I think the shortest section is 12 inches. You might find a 6 inch double wall adapter but I don't think the mfg would ok it near the adapter. Even if ok I wouldn't sit the stove directly on chimney wall. Air flow access to screw etc...
Putting multiple firestarters in 15 or 20 minutes before could work. All depends on how cold your flue gets.
Maybe the next time you replace stove or pipes use the two 45s or if you get lots of smoke spillage on reloads then spend the funds.
I'd lean then to getting rid of that 90deg elbow and install the (2) 45's in its place, you might have to much turbulence when stove temps are low which is making the smoke find the path of least resistance.There's no other fans on, air handles, heat pumps, etc.
Is this also partially a temperature thing maybe? It can be extremely cold here, -30 to -40 is normal enough, average days are 5 to 15 degrees Fahrenheit (making me think by converting that).
I'd lean then to getting rid of that 90deg elbow and install the (2) 45's in its place, you might have to much turbulence when stove temps are low which is making the smoke find the path of least resistance.
When the stove is not in use do you get any smells in the basement?
Indications are fairly strong that the draft is marginal. Changing out the first 90 turn will help. So would adding another 2-3 ft to the chimney top. Even so, there may be days when the atmospherics work against draft. For example, our stove was a bit more balky at startup today, probably due to higher outdoor temps and a falling barometer.I can always get it to light quite quickly, it just sometimes wants to smoke from the pipes.
I think interior is 2" in Canada as well. Outside is more than our required 1". But I am not positiveWas the liner insulated? If not, that is not helping. An insulated liner keeps the flue gases hotter and improves draft. In the US, code requires the liner to be insulated unless the masonry chimney is at least 2" clear of all combustibles. I'm not sure what BC requires.
I think interior is 2" in Canada as well. Outside is more than our required 1". But I am not positive
I don't understand.
You don't go look if your child has his/her seatbelt on because you won't like the results??
Unless they broke the old clay liners out it isn't insulatedI looked at pictures of insulated liners. It may be. I didn't look at it close and just remember watching them stuffing it down the chimney and swearing constantly. A non-insulated should have fit a lot easier.
Exactly.
That is us code not Canadian I am not sure how they deal with it.I dont believe the fire blocking applies to the 2 inch rule... but I could be wrong...
The airspace shall not be filled, except to provide fire blocking in accordance with Section R1003.19.
https://up.codes/viewer/massachusetts/irc-2015/chapter/10/chimneys-and-fireplaces#R1003.18
Plus you have chimney crickets that break the 2 inch rule...and looks like 1 inch.
What do you think? I think he is ok as long as its lined.
Unless they broke the old clay liners out it isn't insulated
???I dont believe the fire blocking applies to the 2 inch rule... but I could be wrong...
The airspace shall not be filled, except to provide fire blocking in accordance with Section R1003.19.
https://up.codes/viewer/massachusetts/irc-2015/chapter/10/chimneys-and-fireplaces#R1003.18
Plus you have chimney crickets that break the 2 inch rule...(these are outside though) and looks like 1 inch.
What do you think? I think he is ok as long as its lined. if not A lot of homes in New England are in Violation is guess...
Yes the only way liners are listed for zero clearance is if they are insulated???
Exceptions:
- Masonry chimneys equipped with a chimney lining system listed and labeled for use in chimneys in contact with combustibles in accordance with UL 1777 and installed in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions are permitted to have combustible material in contact with their exterior surfaces.
Being listed to ul1777 isn't enough. It needs to be listed for zero clearance under ul1777. But again we are talking about US code and they are in Canada. I don't know their codes well enough to advise for sureI guess the key is the insulation unless you can find a liner that passes UL1777....and i think the op paid for a wett inspection.
I guess the key is the insulation unless you can find a liner that passes UL1777....and i think the op paid for a wett inspection.
It isn't easy to build a chimney with proper clearances which is why it is done so rarely.Yes, I paid for a WETT inspection, and a professional install, so that I shouldn't have to have this debate.
The area the chimney passes through the second floor is framed large enough there almost undoubtedly is an adequate airgap inside. I can't know for sure without smashing a hole in the wall, and that's not happening this winter. Maybe when I reno the kitchen I'd look into it.
I'm struggling on how exactly one would frame a building to have zero contact of the framing with a masonry chimney though. You ultimately would have to do something to support the penetrations through the floors/ceiling/roof.
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