Show Us Your Wood Shed

[ShilohRancher]

I repurposed two old chicken houses on the property that I purchased about five years ago. We use this property and the old mobile home on it as our deer camp.

I will also be storing an ATV in the first shed during deer season.
This is the last of three stacks that I had been air-drying outside for about 18 months.
I will be moving this to the back porch of the mobile home soon.

This is the white oak firewood that I recently stacked in the first shed from the outside drying rack.

 

[lml999]

I know!

But at this point, it will handle most of my wood needs, with a separate rack or two for green wood elsewhere...
...and I'm pretty limited spacewise, so it will have to do! The storage shed is also important, so...but I could always convert it to wood storage if winters on Cape Cod suddenly get much colder!

Three weeks later, the wood shed is pretty much done. I still need to put some dividers in, to keep the wood separate and provide some airflow. The side walls are all repurposed decking from a deck revamp last year. The right side wall is solid as it will be part of the storage shed, and the storage shed itself will have the same footprint as the wood shed. The roof is clear poly, to let light in. I'll post a cleaned up photo next week...the site is still work in progress, and a neighbor dropped some trees last week, so I had to pause the build and rescue some oak (freshly cut on the left) from the chipper! Each of the three slots should take over a full cord.

 

[FTG-05]

Three weeks later, the wood shed is pretty much done. I still need to put some dividers in, to keep the wood separate and provide some airflow. The side walls are all repurposed decking from a deck revamp last year. The right side wall is solid as it will be part of the storage shed, and the storage shed itself will have the same footprint as the wood shed. The roof is clear poly, to let light in. I'll post a cleaned up photo next week...the site is still work in progress, and a neighbor dropped some trees last week, so I had to pause the build and rescue some oak (freshly cut on the left) from the chipper! Each of the three slots should take over a full cord.


View attachment 301322

Tell me about those foundation blocks, please!

Nice looking shed!

 

[philt]

Managed to scrounge some timber from a local house renovation to make a frame for a corrugated bitumen roof. Still not the prettiest but much happier with it than the tarp. Still got a fair bit to split which I've chucked on the pile and set up an overflow 'greenhouse' store.
Now I appreciate location is far from ideal, it is surrounded by a fence on two sides and there is an overhanging tree above, but it's the only place that works for us in our garden and that corner does get good sun through the Summer, just not so much through the winter. From what I've read now also isn't the best time to be splitting, add to that the tarp had blown off for a couple of very rainy days we now have some very wet wood but not planning on using it until next winter earliest.
Unfortunately I seem to have created a nice environment for mould, some fuzzy blue stuff, some pink fungus looking stuff and some white. Will this cause me any problems in the long run? Or will it die off and dry up over time? Do I risk the wood rotting? The wood is double stacked and I can see the ends in the middle of the stacks are even worse at the moment.

 

[stoveliker]

If it stays dry from here on out, the mold won't be an issue.

 

[GrumpyDad]

Three weeks later, the wood shed is pretty much done. I still need to put some dividers in, to keep the wood separate and provide some airflow. The side walls are all repurposed decking from a deck revamp last year. The right side wall is solid as it will be part of the storage shed, and the storage shed itself will have the same footprint as the wood shed. The roof is clear poly, to let light in. I'll post a cleaned up photo next week...the site is still work in progress, and a neighbor dropped some trees last week, so I had to pause the build and rescue some oak (freshly cut on the left) from the chipper! Each of the three slots should take over a full cord.


View attachment 301322

This is exactly what I want to build. I had something similar however the walls were made up of lattice only. Too many larger holes so snow got in, then sun would melt it, then the logs would freeze together. That and the damn roof was built for short people so I would constantly hit my head. Hit it really hard one day, got into my truck and knocked it over. Strapped pieces of wood to chain on tractor, and had a big ole fire in the burn pit. So right now I cover with plastic as Im not sure where I want the wood shed just yet.

 

[GrumpyDad]

Tell me about those foundation blocks, please!

Nice looking shed!

those are plastic post bases. ten bucks a piece at lowes. Great if you want to build a free standing structure that you may want to move someday...not sure how but, technically you could

 

[GrumpyDad]

View attachment 301400View attachment 301401View attachment 301402

Managed to scrounge some timber from a local house renovation to make a frame for a corrugated bitumen roof. Still not the prettiest but much happier with it than the tarp. Still got a fair bit to split which I've chucked on the pile and set up an overflow 'greenhouse' store.
Now I appreciate location is far from ideal, it is surrounded by a fence on two sides and there is an overhanging tree above, but it's the only place that works for us in our garden and that corner does get good sun through the Summer, just not so much through the winter. From what I've read now also isn't the best time to be splitting, add to that the tarp had blown off for a couple of very rainy days we now have some very wet wood but not planning on using it until next winter earliest.
Unfortunately I seem to have created a nice environment for mould, some fuzzy blue stuff, some pink fungus looking stuff and some white. Will this cause me any problems in the long run? Or will it die off and dry up over time? Do I risk the wood rotting? The wood is double stacked and I can see the ends in the middle of the stacks are even worse at the moment.

There is art in repurposed stuff making something new, love this.

 

[Oldtoad of Green Acres]

After years of stacking wood in, then moving it to garage and stacking again...I decided to go the tote way.
Filled right at the splitter. Finished manually handling...pick up a few splits every time I pass by in garage & drop in basket by stove. I have 25 of them filled and stored undercover, 3 high.

View attachment 285029

Just picked the first 2 of these beauties last night.
One was $60, the other was free on the side of the road.
Called a guy from an ad, he wanted $180 each but he was out of them.
Not sure what the correct name of them is.
Pulling the tanks out and filling them up with split wood. Thinking of using the tanks to make fertilizer but that would be another forum.

 

[whatyousmokin]

Stove installed March of 2021. Started accumulating wood in late 2020 in anticipation of stove install. My wood piles are stacked on wood pallets which sit on gravel pad. I lay 2 pallets end to end and then pound in t-posts at ends of pallet to support stacks. Now at 16 pallets total; Using tarps on each 2 pallet section now. Dealing with the tarps is pita. Have been considering this carport idea. Carport has wind rating of 100mph and snow load rating of 35psf. Cost for one that is sufficient size to cover all mu current stacks is roughly $3,000. Anyone have any thoughts whether this carport idea is worth it? Should add that this is in location under overhead electrical wire and my undestanding from electric company can not have a permanent structure within 15 ft easement directly under wire.

 

[stoveliker]

If you're paying $3000 for a structure like that, then why not build a proper shed. (At a more suitable place re:wires.)

 

[Rusty18]

If you're paying $3000 for a structure like that, then why not build a proper shed. (At a more suitable place re:wires.)

We had a 30x30 metal carport on 12’ legs put up 6 weeks ago. Couldn’t even buy the trusses for a stick built one for what we paid for the whole metal one installed...

 

[stoveliker]

For 3000 you can build a nice roof on posts. Pallets on the ground.

The point is to limit spans. A woodshed that is longer and only 8 ft deep or so allow nice access from both sides. If you're going to have 15 ft spans, then of course it's going to be expensive.

I would never get a carport thing like you posted. I've not seen them last, despite wind or uv claims.

 

[Ashful]

For 3000 you can build a nice roof on posts. Pallets on the ground.

My little wood racks are 96 sq.ft. each, and up thru 2020, they cost me almost exactly $1k each. Based on that pricing, and the size of said shed proposal, I'd say you're about right.

But the two I built in 2021 were each roughly $2k each, same design, same material. Things are a'changing...

By extension, your proposed $3k shed might be only 150 sq.ft., whereas that carport appears to be several times larger.

 

[stoveliker]

But I believe my shed will outlast the metal+plastic car cover thing.

 

[whatyousmokin]

But I believe my shed will outlast the metal+plastic car cover thing.

No plastic on this particular brand of carport. It is 20ft. length x 20ft. width x 7ft. height. Installation appears to be fairly straightforward with all slip-fit connections and self-drilling screws. not too keen about relocating close to 6 cords of wood, would like to just cover it all where it is now with a little bit of room to spare for adding a few more pallets. The electric company has seen where my horse trailer sits, which is within the 15ft. easement of the overhead power line and they have never told me it needs moved. As long as a structure is not considered permanent, it should be allowed. (unlike a garage, which would be considered permanent- that I would have loved to have built in that spot) Anywho.... here are the specs for this particular carport. Will probably just deal with the tarps another winter (ughh) and cogitate over this decision over the winter and meanwhile keep reading this site and gathering ideas. You all are great!!

Product Details​

Built strong, wind and snow rated, and backed by a 10-year limited warranty is the Arrow Carport. This galvanized steel carport from Arrow Storage Products features a powder coated steel frame for corrosion and rust resistance. The tough made galvanized steel roof is made strong. Perfect for use as a carport, shelter, shade and storage for boats, vehicles, tractors and even as an outdoor picnic area.

• Built strong with a 2x3 in. 15 gauge wall thickness
• Built strong with a 2x3 in. 15 gauge wall thickness. The Arrow Carport delivers wind and snow load strength and stability
• Black powder coated finish for superior rust and corrosion resistance.
• Designed for easy installation thanks to slip-fit connections and self-drilling screws
• Tough, horizontal roof-panels made from 29-gauge galvanized steel for superior corrosion resistance.
• Attractive charcoal roof with a grey, powder coated frame
• Arrow carport delivers wind and snow load strength and stability

Specifications​

Specification	Description
Brand	Arrow
Product Weight	1067.85 lb.
Product Length	237 in.
Warranty	10 Year Limited
Application/Use	Carports
Care	None
Country of Origin	Made in USA
Coverage Area	479 sq. ft.
Cover Material	Steel
Door Type	Opening
Exterior Peak Height	118 in.
Frame Diameter	2 in.
Frame Material	Steel
Highest Clearance	115 in.
Installation Method	See manual
Interior Peak Height	115 in.
Lowest Clearance	115 in.
Maximum Roof Load	28
Maximum Wind Resistance	100 mph
Number of Entrances	1
Number of Posts	8
Opening Height	115 in.
Primary Entrance Opening Width	237 in.
Product Height	118 in.
Product Width	243 in.
Roof Material	Steel
Style	Peak
Manufacturer Part Number	CPHC202007

 

[Vg3200p]

No plastic on this particular brand of carport. It is 20ft. length x 20ft. width x 7ft. height. Installation appears to be fairly straightforward with all slip-fit connections and self-drilling screws. not too keen about relocating close to 6 cords of wood, would like to just cover it all where it is now with a little bit of room to spare for adding a few more pallets. The electric company has seen where my horse trailer sits, which is within the 15ft. easement of the overhead power line and they have never told me it needs moved. As long as a structure is not considered permanent, it should be allowed. (unlike a garage, which would be considered permanent- that I would have loved to have built in that spot) Anywho.... here are the specs for this particular carport. Will probably just deal with the tarps another winter (ughh) and cogitate over this decision over the winter and meanwhile keep reading this site and gathering ideas. You all are great!!

Product Details​

Built strong, wind and snow rated, and backed by a 10-year limited warranty is the Arrow Carport. This galvanized steel carport from Arrow Storage Products features a powder coated steel frame for corrosion and rust resistance. The tough made galvanized steel roof is made strong. Perfect for use as a carport, shelter, shade and storage for boats, vehicles, tractors and even as an outdoor picnic area.

• Built strong with a 2x3 in. 15 gauge wall thickness
• Built strong with a 2x3 in. 15 gauge wall thickness. The Arrow Carport delivers wind and snow load strength and stability
• Black powder coated finish for superior rust and corrosion resistance.
• Designed for easy installation thanks to slip-fit connections and self-drilling screws
• Tough, horizontal roof-panels made from 29-gauge galvanized steel for superior corrosion resistance.
• Attractive charcoal roof with a grey, powder coated frame
• Arrow carport delivers wind and snow load strength and stability

Specifications​

Specification	Description
Brand	Arrow
Product Weight	1067.85 lb.
Product Length	237 in.
Warranty	10 Year Limited
Application/Use	Carports
Care	None
Country of Origin	Made in USA
Coverage Area	479 sq. ft.
Cover Material	Steel
Door Type	Opening
Exterior Peak Height	118 in.
Frame Diameter	2 in.
Frame Material	Steel
Highest Clearance	115 in.
Installation Method	See manual
Interior Peak Height	115 in.
Lowest Clearance	115 in.
Maximum Roof Load	28
Maximum Wind Resistance	100 mph
Number of Entrances	1
Number of Posts	8
Opening Height	115 in.
Primary Entrance Opening Width	237 in.
Product Height	118 in.
Product Width	243 in.
Roof Material	Steel
Style	Peak
Manufacturer Part Number	CPHC202007

Just did the math on 20x20x7 and it's over 21 cords of space if filled to the very edges I bet you could fit 15 to 18 in there realistically. That would be awesome

 

[stoveliker]

Ok. That sounds a bit better.

Make sure you anchor it to the ground properly. Don't want it to fly away...

 

[whatyousmokin]

Just did the math on 20x20x7 and it's over 21 cords of space if filled to the very edges I bet you could fit 15 to 18 in there realistically. That would be awesome

My math is in agreement with yours. But I tend to leave lots of empty space on pallets and between the rows of pallets, wanted to maximize air flow. and be able to walk between the rows of pallets. Not the most efficient use of space I know, and leaves unsupported areas of tarp that sag with rain. Here's general layout of my pallets. 2 pallets set end to end, 2 t-posts at each end, split logs generally 16-18", leaving gap between the logs. Left the gap between the ends of logs for better drying, but that gap is a real PITA when it fills with rain water......Maybe I don't need to leave that gap between the ends of logs? No gap there would certainly be better for the tarping situation.

 

[stoveliker]

Yeah, I know those. Have a few anchoring a 12 ft trampoline. But I don't trust them to keep the thing down in 60+ mph winds. (So I take off the "sail" on which the kids jump if high winds are forecast.)

Depends on the soil of course, my sand just doesn't hold much. If you have clay, it might be enough.

I'd add some sturdy anchors (I like a bucket with concrete, and some rebar stuck in the concrete in the shape of a star, sticking out of the bucket a foot or so on each side. Too much hassle for a trampoline, but for a more permanent structure (sorry power company 😜), that's what I would do.)

 

[lml999]

Tell me about those foundation blocks, please!

Nice looking shed!

Thanks...still work in progress. Just added a pair of solar motion sensor lights and am putting in the bin dividers today. Then I'm building an adjacent storage shed.

Here's the link to the foundation blocks. I was going to use the two part foaming hole filler, but decided that leveling the shed would be easier with the blocks. And given the weight, it's certainly not going anywhere!

 

[whatyousmokin]

Ok. That sounds a bit better.

Make sure you anchor it to the ground properly. Don't want it to fly away...

Yeah, lol. Page 3 of instruction manual warns about proper anchoring and not assembling on windy day... Step 6 in instruction manual illustrates proper anchoring to ground. all hardware for anchoring included with kit.

 

[whatyousmokin]

Yeah, I know those. Have a few anchoring a 12 ft trampoline. But I don't trust them to keep the thing down in 60+ mph winds. (So I take off the "sail" on which the kids jump if high winds are forecast.)

Depends on the soil of course, my sand just doesn't hold much. If you have clay, it might be enough.

I'd add some sturdy anchors (I like a bucket with concrete, and some rebar stuck in the concrete in the shape of a star, sticking out of the bucket a foot or so on each side. Too much hassle for a trampoline, but for a more permanent structure (sorry power company 😜), that's what I would do.)

https://arrow-sheds.shelterlogic.com/media/asset/724910221.pdf

Step 6 shows actual anchoring system for this carport. Wanted to just copy relevant portion of manual here but can't figure out how to do that.... Would you still do the concrete buckets or do you think this anchor system would be sufficient? (PS. You are communicating here with 65 year old female who isn't sharpest knife in drawer, lol)

 

[Vg3200p]

My math is in agreement with yours. But I tend to leave lots of empty space on pallets and between the rows of pallets, wanted to maximize air flow. and be able to walk between the rows of pallets. Not the most efficient use of space I know, and leaves unsupported areas of tarp that sag with rain. Here's general layout of my pallets. 2 pallets set end to end, 2 t-posts at each end, split logs generally 16-18", leaving gap between the logs. Left the gap between the ends of logs for better drying, but that gap is a real PITA when it fills with rain water......Maybe I don't need to leave that gap between the ends of logs? No gap there would certainly be better for the tarping situation.

View attachment 301669

If you continue to do your current setup would it be feasible to put a pallet on top of your gap section so the tarp won't sag? This might also provide some air gap underneath the tarp for the top of the pile?

 

[Ashful]

The anchoring is definitely going to be critical, if placed near power or comm's lines. Last thing you want is to be fined for wiping them out, if this thing takes flight in a storm, especially if you're knowingly pushing the easement requirement. Sounds like you're already taking that into consideration, tho.

I can tell you about the time a 15 kV line came down on a neighbor's metal porch roof, just 100 feet up the street from the window below which I was sleeping at the time. I thought lightening had struck their house! Serious excitement ensued.