I have condar in the flue, inferno on the top and a harbor freight ir gun hanging next to it. I like the ir gun but have seen the same version reside back to Celsius everytime you use it, not sure what the deal with that was.
Shelburne Help.
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there's a guy in Dover that works at j&j log that does it as a side busness and uses their kiln. If you send me a pm I can give you his #. Seeing that locals sell green wood for $250 a cord $300 for kiln dried was a good deal. I bought 2 cords and it was a true 2 cords maybe more. He didn't charge a delivery charge for 2 since that was the max for his dump truck. I think he might charge for 1 cord.
Do you feel the HF gun is accurate enough? Does it match (or close) to the inferno you have on top of your stove?
Yes it is, matches the top inferno therm by 50*. Like i said though the 1st one i got defaults back to Celsius and my friends didnt, returned it and the next one defaulted to Fahrenheit. Its a nice ir gun
I've had the HF gun for 4 years with no problem. Reads very close to Condar on stove top at flue collar.
I have the hf gun and it works great. That's how I found out how off the Rutland thermometer was. I double checked temps with a rtd probe as well as a thermocouple and they are all within 10-15 degrees of each other. They have it on sale all the time, then use the 20% off coupon on top.
Hey guys
Just bought a IR Temp Gun. You guys were right..that Rutland temp gauge is off. I am getting about 80 degrees difference after stove settled out. The Rutland was reading lower. I will be placing an order for the Condar Inferno.
I have also discovered that i have a leak at my Tee conection as well as the Tee Clean out bottom cap. I found it by using a long reach lighter and held it around the pipe and I got to one point where it pulled in the flame. This coud be why I not getting the pull through the stove. Other than replacing the tee woud you guys recommend cement on this? I woud think it would crack over time with expansion.
David
For the bottom cap you can make a round gasket with door rope gasket. Put it in the bottom of the cap and push it tight and then screw it in. It should seal. If the other part of the tee is going directly into the stove a little cement should seal it up. You shouldn't have to remove that often. I need to take the cap off my tee to sweep so I wouldnt want to cement it on.
I was thinking the same thing with the gasket material. The only problem is she runs 24/7. Will have to wait. I will keep the cement on the back neat and thin hopefully it wont crack too much. They shortened the snout on the tee and when they tightened the clamp it keep warping a bit. Kept loosing and tightening clamp till it appeared ok. I guess nothings perfect.
I have the heat shield and blower on mine. I don't use it a lot, but it is very helpful for heating the space more quickly (from an unheated cabin). Also very good at reducing stovetop and flue temperatures when the primary air is closed but temps continue to climb.
I got my stove used and it had a heatshield. I tried using a fan rigged up from my last stove and while it did heat the room the stove is in a little faster it still took the same amount of time for the whole house to warm up. I removed the heat shield this year. I'm not sure if you have a heat shield or not but I would sell mine if you want it.
Hello
Last heating season you mentioned a heat shield for a shelburne that you might want to part with.
Do you still have it? If so how much would you want for it?
Thanks for your time
David
Start a conversation, jrems may not be on the forums during summer. A conversation will send an email.
Hi David. Yes I still have it. I just looked it up and it looks like a new heat shield plus brackets is $125 plus shipping. How is $50? Just the heat shield alone is $80 new. I'm away on vacation but I'll be back in Danbury later next week. Did you have any better luck heating after sealing the leaks? I can message you next week when I get back if you would like. - Jeremy
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Little better.
Talked to the hearthstone rep and he feels that the liner should be insulated. My installer doesn't think that's the issue but I contacted him today and he is going to come by in a week or so yo pull the liner
Yes the liner should be insulated for saftey but probably isn't the issue. I only have a 12' -13'chimney (with insulated liner)and have no problem running the stove with marginal draft. This stove breathes pretty easy and doesn't need a large draft. On a couple really cold nights I almost had it run away and get too hot. I think the fuel is the biggest issue if you are running the blocks. I had poor heat when using them.
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