Settings on an American Harvest 6039

[ARC]

could my vacuum safety switch gone bad?

Yes it could be the vacuum safety switch but it is more likely one of the other 4 problems I listed. If you want to buy one the OEM part 80478 is no longer available US Stove went to the 80549 for most of their stoves here are some of the non oem cheaper part. Never hurts to have spare parts.

https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=US+Stove+80549&_sacat=0

 

[ARC]

the light about the A is still blinking

Did you vacuum behind the fire box (between the two walls) it is a spot easily missed? Dirty venting stove is the most often cause of vacuum loss. Behind D in FirepotPete's picture.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/ussc-6039-6041-internal-cleaning.152067/

Did you check to see if the metal nipple the vacuum hose was connected to was not plugged with soot?

Do you own a leaf blower?

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Describe your venting IE mine is 1 foot straight out back 45 degree angle, 1 foot straight out through wall, clean out T, 3 feet straight up, 90 degree elbow, 1 foot straight then cap?

Do you have the OAK (outside air kit) installed?

Is E open or does it have a cap on it E FirepotPete's picture
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/ussc-6039-6041-internal-cleaning.152067/

Does your stove have the manual damper installed?

What does your heat settings go to 1-5 or 1-9?

Did you do the dollar bill test on your door gasket? Another test for door gasket is while stove is running take a cigarette or incense stick and move it around door to see if stove sucks the smoke into stove. You and also use a Barbecue brush, hair brush or comb to fluff up the gasket by lightly running it over the gasket to see if it will give you a better seal. The only time I ever had vacuum error the door gasket had gotten flatten over time and allowed air to be sucked in fluffing it worked for two weeks until I got it replaced.

I am doubtful that it is the vacuum switch itself as when they go you would not be able to run on settings 1-3 like you can, but it is always possible that there is a small crack in the vacuum switch diaphragm. Your switch is working because you can run stove up to heat range 3. It is difficult to test switch itself it only measures .05 water column which is really small vacuum.

Do not give up the problem can only be a few things this stove is really simple to work on.

 

[yeejsou]

Did you vacuum behind the fire box (between the two walls) it is a spot easily missed? Dirty venting stove is the most often cause of vacuum loss. Behind D in FirepotPete's picture.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/ussc-6039-6041-internal-cleaning.152067/

Did you check to see if the metal nipple the vacuum hose was connected to was not plugged with soot?

Do you own a leaf blower?

To view this content we will need your consent to set third party cookies.
For more detailed information, see our cookies page.

Accept third party cookies

Describe your venting IE mine is 1 foot straight out back 45 degree angle, 1 foot straight out through wall, clean out T, 3 feet straight up, 90 degree elbow, 1 foot straight then cap?

Do you have the OAK (outside air kit) installed?

Is E open or does it have a cap on it E FirepotPete's picture
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/ussc-6039-6041-internal-cleaning.152067/

Does your stove have the manual damper installed?

What does your heat settings go to 1-5 or 1-9?

Did you do the dollar bill test on your door gasket? Another test for door gasket is while stove is running take a cigarette or incense stick and move it around door to see if stove sucks the smoke into stove. You and also use a Barbecue brush, hair brush or comb to fluff up the gasket by lightly running it over the gasket to see if it will give you a better seal. The only time I ever had vacuum error the door gasket had gotten flatten over time and allowed air to be sucked in fluffing it worked for two weeks until I got it replaced.

I am doubtful that it is the vacuum switch itself as when they go you would not be able to run on settings 1-3 like you can, but it is always possible that there is a small crack in the vacuum switch diaphragm. Your switch is working because you can run stove up to heat range 3. It is difficult to test switch itself it only measures .05 water column which is really small vacuum.

Do not give up the problem can only be a few things this stove is really simple to work on.

Thanks for all the information. i will recheck everything later on due to i just got home from work. No i dont have a OAK, and the E has a cap over it. i have the 3 manual damper right underneath the door. 2 small one on the both side with the bigger one in the middle. My HR goes from 1-9. my pipping goes straight to the T with a clean out the bottom then straight up about 5 feet with a top on. The reason i thought it might be my vacuum switch was the hose that attach to the other end of the vacuum was melted with a small piece holding it. so i took everything off and redid the hosing. i'll have to check to make sure when the hose melt, it didnt leak some plastic into the nipple. I've pull the 2 plate off of D and vacuum as much as i can behind it. so i think that should be good to go. I've order a switch this morning here so i will also wait for it to come in and replace it to see if that fixes the problem. but i will try the paper or dollar bill once the stove runs out of the pellets in it. im hoping it'll be a easy fix as i dont want to spend money buying another pellets stove or go back to burning wood. What metal nipple are you talking about on the vacuum switch?

 

[yeejsou]

Also my stove right now isn't burning that clean. the glass on the door will dark up after a night of burning too. so i'll have to keep wiping that down too. not sure if that will be a cause of the problem or not.

 

[ARC]

i have the 3 manual damper right underneath the door. 2 small one on the both side with the bigger one in the middle

The big one in the middle is the damper. The two smaller ones on the sides are ash dumps and should be closed while running and only open when cleaning the stove.

i'll have to check to make sure when the hose melt, it didnt leak some plastic into the nipple

What metal nipple are you talking about on the vacuum switch?

Sorry I wasn't clearer the metal nipple on the stove that the hose melted on is the metal nipple I was talking about run a small piece of wire or the straw from a can of air down it to make sure it is not plugged.

Also my stove right now isn't burning that clean. the glass on the door will dark up after a night of burning too. so i'll have to keep wiping that down too. not sure if that will be a cause of the problem or not.

Unless stove is running around heat setting 5 the door glass will dark up easily over night almost all stoves behave that way. But it could mean you have a blockage.

Did you run a brush through your venting I have seen a bird get stuck in there how I don't know but it happen. Also I have seen where ash has harden and created a blockage in the vent. When you take the clean out cap off the T ash falls out but the blockage stays because it has hardened. If no brush try tapping on venting.

Next time you restart the stove light it close and latch door. Then open the door. Do you hear the exhaust fan ramp up for a second or two? That will let you know the exhaust fan is working to adjust vacuum.

Before you start it back up you could also run the Board test pay special attention to step one.

6039 ABC Board Test

To run this test the UNIT MUST BE COOLED OFF. Power up the unit by plugging in the power
supply cord to the back of the unit. Press the on button

Step 1: Press and Hold down the A and B buttons at the bottom of the board until the display shows
an “0” and a “1”. This steps checks the Exhaust Blower and Vacuum Switch. Check to see if the
Blower is running and if the Red LED is on above the A button. Open the door and see if the LED
goes off; shut the door and make sure it comes back on. If the A is not on in this step check the
gaskets on the door and clean the units exhaust blower and ash cleanouts Vacuum Issue. If so, Press
the ON button to go to the next step.

Step 2: Display will show an “0” and “2”. This step checks the Room Blower. Check to see if the
room fan is running. If so, Press the ON button.

Step 3: Display will show an “0” and “3”. This step checks the Agitator. They should see it turning
clockwise in the burnpot. If so, Press the ON button

Step 4: Display will show an “0” and “4”. This step checks the Auger Motor. With the hopper lid
closed, the auger motor should be running. If so, lift the lid to check the micro switch mounted on
the right side of the hopper; the motor should stop. Close the lid to make sure that the motor comes
back on. If so Press the ON button.

Step 5: Display will show an “I” and “1”. This step checks the low temperature switch. It will
turn on the LED over the “A” if the low temperature switch is open which means it is at room temp.
If so have them Press the ON button. The “A” light will be off if the switch is closed and this tells you
it is hot.

Step 6: Display will show an “I” and “2”. This step checks the Thermostat Plug. Make sure that
the LED (Red light) over the A button is on. If so, Press the ON button to go to the next step.

Step 7 and 8 does not apply to your stove.

Step 7: Display will show a numerical value. This is the room temperature measured at the
thermistor attached to the exhaust housing. The displayed temperature should be close to the
room (ambient) temperature. NO temp reading (00) thermistor disconnected from the board
or bad board. Press the On button to go to the next step.

Step 8: Display will show the Frequency of the A/C input voltage. Display should show a 59, 60,
or 61. If so, Press the ON button to go to the next step.

 

[yeejsou]

well thanks for the information. this morning it wouldn't work for me, but after i switch out the vacuum hose yesterday and this afternoon, i went back to check on it and now its allowing me to go over HR 3 now. i havent set it higher then 5. I've been setting it at 4 since i bought it and its working good for me. I hope that after changing the Vacuum hose and cleaning it yesterday, it'll work good for me. But if anything change i'll come and give you guys an update on here. thanks. sorry for stealing the owner of this post. thanks again

 

[yeejsou]

I've bought this aftermarket switch. I was wondering where does the top black nose part where the hose attach to goes where? The original has only the bottom one. Do i plug the top one off? Help please. Thanks

 

[ARC]

Do i plug the top one off?

You do not have to do anything to it. Gray side should be attached to hose. It is what is called normally closed circuit means at no vacuum it is off and when has vacuum it is on. The black side is called normally open circuit means at no vacuum it is on and when has vacuum it is off. You do not have to cap the unused black nipple.

 

[yeejsou]

Thank you

 

[Jhancock]

I am new to the pellet stove world. I bought a used 6039 with the ABC controls with 34 displaying at initial power connection. Is the draft/exhaust fan supposed to run nonstop? Other then that I’ve had great results tweaking it to be very efficient and producing good heat output with the information provided.

 

[ARC]

Is the draft/exhaust fan supposed to run nonstop?

Yes all the time. From the moment you push ON to about 45 minutes after you push OFF.

 

[Jhancock]

Yes all the time. From the moment you push ON to about 45 minutes after you push OFF.

What would the reason for the exhaust to run even when off. It stays running the entire time it's plugged in. From initial plug in without a fire in it. I don't know much about it, I purchased it used from someone off of Facebook Marketplace. I replaced the distribution blower because the one in it was seized up. It fires up, runs, feeds, agitates and the distribution blower comes on like it's supposed to. The only issue I'm finding is the exhaust running anytime it is plugged in.

 

[yeejsou]

For this 6039 stove with the ABC display, what's the best setting you guys got or run? For those who own one?

 

[ARC]

What would the reason for the exhaust to run even when off.

Possible 2 reasons first is easy but not likely problem check your low limit switch to see if it is closed. IE Take multi meter and check from spade to spade for continuity. With no fire you should not have continuity. Sometimes they fail Open and the stove thinks it still has fire and will not end shutdown mode. Not likely but possible.



Most likely a Triac has failed closed on the control board if you have any soldering skills you can replace it. A Triac is a on/off switch

 

[Jhancock]

Possible 2 reasons first is easy but not likely problem check your low limit switch to see if it is closed. IE Take multi meter and check from spade to spade for continuity. With no fire you should not have continuity. Sometimes they fail Open and the stove thinks it still has fire and will not end shutdown mode. Not likely but possible.

View attachment 267270

Most likely a Triac has failed closed on the control board if you have any soldering skills you can replace it. A Triac is a on/off switch View attachment 267271 View attachment 267272

Thanks. USSC support text says it could be an airflow issue and suggested I bypass the pressure switch or it could be a damaged control board. I'm going to try the pressure switch bypass tonight and I'll check the triac switches and the low limit switch while I'm in there. I'm guessing since the distribution fan turns off and on then you're right in assuming it's most likely not the limit switch. Thanks for the great info!

 

[ARC]

Not your board but it gives you a ideal of what to look for. I think orange wire pin 10 is your exhaust blower, if you follow path on board it should take you to the right triac.

 

[Jhancock]

Not your board but it gives you a ideal of what to look for. I think orange wire pin 10 is your exhaust blower, if you follow path on board it should take you to the right triac.
View attachment 267279

Excellent information! This really helps me out. I wasn't sure if there was a specific impedance that I need to adhere to, but it looks like as long the triac is rated to at least 120V any should work. I suck at soldering, but if it turns out to be the issue $4 fix is better then a $300 control board.

 

[ARC]

but it looks like as long the triac is rated to at least 120V

Should be numbers on the triacs, if you end up buying new board it will be a 4 button upgrade and you will need new wiring harness as the plug is not the same.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Gee, I have a 2 button in the shop in a box. I changed from a 2 to 4 years ago (my plug mated with no modifications). I tend to save old stuff. bad habit I guess.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Yes all the time. From the moment you push ON to about 45 minutes after you push OFF.

Actually, until the snap disc opens or closes, which one I'm not certain about and shuts down the stove... My run time after I push off varies with ambient temperature. Depends on if it was cooking hard or idling and mine can cook really hard on corn.

 

[ARC]

Gee, I have a 2 button in the shop in a box. I changed from a 2 to 4 years ago (my plug mated with no modifications). I tend to save old stuff. bad habit I guess.

My mistake you are correct the plugs are the same.

 

[FirepotPete]

Actually I remember years ago there was an issue with the wiring harness from very early 6039's that would not match the upgraded ABC panel let alone the 4 button panel. Not many but there were a few out there. Probably like my stove. Bought at the Chicago Hardware Show, first of the stoves that got the 4 button board. But! A few things were not upgraded on it like the stoves that hit the market.

One of the biggest was no switch on the hopper for the lid to open or close the safety circuit to ramp up the exhaust fan.

 

[SidecarFlip]

Actually I remember years ago there was an issue with the wiring harness from very early 6039's that would not match the upgraded ABC panel let alone the 4 button panel. Not many but there were a few out there. Probably like my stove. Bought at the Chicago Hardware Show, first of the stoves that got the 4 button board. But! A few things were not upgraded on it like the stoves that hit the market.

One of the biggest was no switch on the hopper for the lid to open or close the safety circuit to ramp up the exhaust fan.

The one I have has no safety switch on the hopper lid but my combustion fan will ramp up when the vacuum sensor senses a loss of chamber vacuum. The board I have now , there are unused lugs for an ignitor as well as the lid switch that are unused, but I've never experienced any issues at all.

I keep her clean and feed the fuel and all is good in SE Michigan. I switched from pellets to my 3-1 corn pellet mix Thursday and had to dial down the burn rate to less than 2PPH as it's 74 in here right now, 38 outside. I like dialing town the feed rate but keep the HR setting at HR3 so my stirrer bar keeps up with sifting the mix efficiently.

Far as I'm concerned, the 6039-41 was the best unit ever made for an inexpensive, no frills heater. My philosophy is, the more 'frills' you have, the more incident of failure.

There is an RS232 jack on my board. I sometimes wonder what it's for, possibly an Internet download?

 

[Ssyko]

There is an RS232 jack on my board. I sometimes wonder what it's for, possibly an Internet download?

]
Rs232 was used for programing and communications back in the day. It was slow but it worked well

 

[SidecarFlip]

Wonder if I can plug our landline into it and ET can phone home? The landline phone has a 232 jack on the end.....