Settings on an American Harvest 6039

[Reefwonders]

If anyone needs help with a saltwater fish tank or reef tank LMK, that my area of expertise.

 

[schoondog]

Schoondog, I know about being busy and wanting to hunt. I walk out the back door to hunt and still too busy. I have at my disposal my 5 acres of woods and 30 more of woods connected to mine and 100 of farm fields.

Ya I used to have that, but 2 farmers around me sold there land and now I have 40 new homes surrounding me. Also small parcels across street that was my "honeyhole" are now being expanded on and built on. Now I have to travel some to get access. Just got back from unsuccessful hunt in Ohio. Want to go out today with bow before gun season starts Monday, and its raining pretty good, deciding what to now. Hope your house is nice and warm.

Schoondog

 

[schoondog]

Schoondog, That's what it was,the damper was closed. Thanks everyone for all the info,so fast.

Sweeeet. Once you get used to it as Scoop said it is infintly adjustable and will burn almost anything including grass pellets. I really like mine and hope you have good luck with yours.

Schoondog

Schoondog to the rescue!! Good catch there bud. ;-)

Thanks imac !! With all the help I get on this forum its about time I contribute.
Shoondog

 

[Reefwonders]

Ok its at it again :-S


It ran for 30hrs straight without a problem. When I check the settings I push "A" and I get a 1 in the heat setting and a 1 in the blower setting. Whem I push "B" I get an 8 in the heat setting and a 2 in the blower setting. And the damper is below the pot is an inch out. I did a cleaning last night too.

The stove has a 2' horizontal and a 3' vertical pipe. At the top of the 3' vertical is an elbow with a 1' horizontal with the cap. The cap is the one that looks like a dryer vent end piece. I'm burning Pro-pellets. I'm going to clean it again tonight and try using the Somersets. It shouldn't make a difference,but it'll cancel that out. Any insight would be appreciated. I may have to hire a Pro to come out and take a look.

I pulled off the sides to check the combustion blower and it operating and clean. Once it does its cool down I'll take apart and check the exhaust blower.

 

[imacman]

....I pulled off the sides to check the combustion blower and it operating and clean. Once it does its cool down I'll take apart and check the exhaust blower.

That is the only way to really know if the blower is clean....remove the whole motor/blower unit from the stove. Wirebrush (gently) any ash buildup off the fan blades, and also use a flexible putty knife under the blades on the motor body....get as much of it clean as you can. Be careful of any gaskets....might be a good idea to get some spares as some of them rip easily.

Ash buildup on the fan blades can reduce the air CFM the fan pulls through the firepot.

 

[Reefwonders]

....I pulled off the sides to check the combustion blower and it operating and clean. Once it does its cool down I'll take apart and check the exhaust blower.

That is the only way to really know if the blower is clean....remove the whole motor/blower unit from the stove. Wirebrush (gently) any ash buildup off the fan blades, and also use a flexible putty knife under the blades on the motor body....get as much of it clean as you can. Be careful of any gaskets....might be a good idea to get some spares as some of them rip easily.

Ash buildup on the fan blades can reduce the air CFM the fan pulls through the firepot.

I saw some others that looked really bad. The combustion blower is spotless. Now on the heat exchanger on top of the unit. Would it be good to get a small enough diameter hose to put in there to suck them out too? Also I see there is an 1.5" intake at the back of the fire box. Should I stick the vac hose in that to suck that out too?

 

[Reefwonders]

I checked and cleaned everything and it looked like it was going to run good,but this morning when I got up the flame was lazy looking and the pot was 3/4 full. I'm at a lose. Could it be the circuit board is messed up and feeding to much fuel still. The agitator in the pot turns a little over a 1/4 a turn after it feeds fuel.

 

[cmooreburn]

On my 6039 two things happened and my pot overflowed like that. First, the circuit board began acting strange,not turning off or on untill I pressed the buttons several times. Found out the board was defective and replaced same. More importantly tho, the stir rod got stuck and the shear pin broke like its supposed to.
When I started the pellets on fire the stir rod looked ok like it was turning but when it got a full load it quit turning.The pellets overflowed in the pot.
Try this test. Turn the stove off and cool it down. Remove any pellets and replace the stir rod and cotter pin on the shaft. Put your fingers on the rod and GENTLY try to twist the rod. If it turns then the shear pin has broken. Friction on the shaft will rotate the rod until it becomes loaded, then it stops turning but the feed auger keeps feeding.
The shear pin is on the shaft on the motor on the left side as you face the front of the stove. Remove the left side panel and there are two screws that hold the bracket that keeps the motor in place. Pull the motor out and you will see the shear pin. The pins cost about 25 cents.

UNPLUG THE STOVE BEFORE REMOVING THE SIDE PANEL. The circuit board and motor wiring is on this side and static may short the expensive{300.00} board.

 

[Reefwonders]

The agitator is turning and the stove does come on without any problems. I did try something before I got into the shower. I opened the stove and flicked out some of the pellets and turned up the heat on the unit to 4 and opened the damper another1/4". The flame is doing great and its burning the soot off the glass.
So when you turn up the heat the combustion air increases. Hopefully that's the issue? I just had it down too low(at 2). I'll see what its like when I get back home later. I think I'm starting to learn at a better rate now. Chalk it up to being a newbie.

 

[imacman]

The agitator is turning and the stove does come on without any problems. I did try something before I got into the shower. I opened the stove and flicked out some of the pellets and turned up the heat on the unit to 4 and opened the damper another1/4". The flame is doing great and its burning the soot off the glass.
So when you turn up the heat the combustion air increases. Hopefully that's the issue? I just had it down too low(at 2). I'll see what its like when I get back home later. I think I'm starting to learn at a better rate now. Chalk it up to being a newbie.

As it has been noted on this forum many times before, the toughest thing to do well on a pellet stove is burning on the low heat settings.

 

[Reefwonders]

I have learned a lot in such a short time, thanks to this site and all the helpful people here.

 

[schoondog]

Reefwonders I see you are having more problems. I had big problem with my stove too. I can't help much when you run in manual mode, I just don't have enough info running in different modes to be comfy telling you what to try.Scoop does have more experience at it. However, If you put everything in "A" ( draft, room, and aux.) the red LED over the mode button wwill be lit all the time, not blinking. Then use the heat range buttons to go up and down, from HR-1 to HR-9. When burning any type of pellets I have never had any problems in auto mode. I simply raise or lower to match the heat I need to keep house warm. I usually run at HR-2 through HR-5. Right now house is very warm so I backed it down to HR-1 for a while. I would check your burn pot and make sure the holes are open. Shut stove down for 1/2-1 hr. to cool off and pull agitator out and then burn pot. What I do then is put pot and agitator in hot water for a bit then take agitator and tap the crust off the inside of pot. Then I have a wire brush to clean pot up nice. Put back together. I usually do this once a week along with a good vacuuming. Possible that with the mess you had the burn pot is caked with crap. Also once a day or so I move that draft damper in and out several times to clean damper and allow ash to fall into ash pan. You can open tht damper way up don't be scart. I also helps keep the pot holes clean. Just put it back at the 3/4 to 1 " out when your done.

My stove did that thing where it would not shut off and then control panel would simply flash when trying to start. I took the board apar t( 3 pieces) and checked all the fuses and connectors then cleaned with compressed air. I reinstalled and got stove to start . It then shut off with an eror code 5, auger failure. So then I took stove out and began disassembly. I took it outside and cleaned well with vacuum and then compressed air. Put 115v. to auger, turned fine. Took the fans out and cleaned. Cleaned the chimney too. I was on a roll. Reinstalled stove and fired up. Now had error code 6, agitator failure. When I checked the board for 115v. at the fuse while using the factory test mode and turning on the agitator had small arch at fuse and agitator began to turn. So I disconnected stove power and pinched all the fuse holders and reinstalled the fuses. All the connections and the fuses looked very clean, no corrosion at all. The stove has been working fine for the last 4 days. No issues at all. So before you buy that $300 board, try to clean it and be sure the fuses and fuse holders are tensioned and clean.

Reef hope this helps.

Schoondog

 

[JJ678]

So I just bought an American Harvest model 6039. I have a question about adjusting the Air/Fuel mixture. In the owners manual, it says "If activation of A and B is necessary".....when is it not necessary? I activated it and tried to make the adjustments to the auger speed and Combustion air blower, but when I hit "A", it brings me to a set of numbers, but only allows me to adjust the number shown under the blower adjustment. According to the manual, the number should be shown under heat range with the blower window blank.When I hit "A" again, it brings me to another completely different set of numbers. What are these. When I hit it a third time it brings me back to my standard Heat and Blower settings. I ran into the same thing with the "B" button. m I missing something? Any ideas? Do I really need to have the A and B activated??......Also, I started it yesterday and approximately 3-4 minutes after starting it, it shut down and showed an E under heat range. I assume this is some type of error, but I have no clue why it did it. I simply turned it back on and it ran fine for several hours.

 

[jackofalltrades001]

So I just bought an American Harvest model 6039. I have a question about adjusting the Air/Fuel mixture. In the owners manual, it says "If activation of A and B is necessary".....when is it not necessary? I activated it and tried to make the adjustments to the auger speed and Combustion air blower, but when I hit "A", it brings me to a set of numbers, but only allows me to adjust the number shown under the blower adjustment. According to the manual, the number should be shown under heat range with the blower window blank.When I hit "A" again, it brings me to another completely different set of numbers. What are these. When I hit it a third time it brings me back to my standard Heat and Blower settings. I ran into the same thing with the "B" button. m I missing something? Any ideas? Do I really need to have the A and B activated??......Also, I started it yesterday and approximately 3-4 minutes after starting it, it shut down and showed an E under heat range. I assume this is some type of error, but I have no clue why it did it. I simply turned it back on and it ran fine for several hours.

I to have a 6039, 2007 model this model only has 3 buttons, A, B & C. I to get two or three values of numbers per each letter (button) pushed. I just installed my stove this year, bought it back in 09 as a slightly used stove and has been in storage ever since. I am still in the learning curve on this stove and have been mapping ALL my set point changes and times let run at these changes. What I revert back to time after time is "A" = 5, "B" = 5, "C" = 9, Damper open 1/2 to 5/8". I get a nice HOT fire with clear clean glass. At this setting it kept me at 70 degrees last night with outside temps reported to be 26 below zero. If I turn it up to "A" =9 & "B" =9 it will heat me out! I have found some of these set points to be for auger speed, firebox air fan, room air fan and I thought I had one more. I'm at work and my notes are at home. One thing I can state is with any changes made, make them small and give them time. I always let the stove go for a min. of an hour before I adjust any other setting/s. I note my results before changing any other settings. Another great tool is a temp. gauge, I have one mounted in my room air vent, huge help in moderating your set point changes. Helpful hints are always welcome! HEAT ON!

 

[jackofalltrades001]

I to have a 6039, 2007 model this model only has 3 buttons, A, B & C. I to get two or three values of numbers per each letter (button) pushed. I just installed my stove this year, bought it back in 09 as a slightly used stove and has been in storage ever since. I am still in the learning curve on this stove and have been mapping ALL my set point changes and times let run at these changes. What I revert back to time after time is "A" = 5, "B" = 5, "C" = 9, Damper open 1/2 to 5/8". I get a nice HOT fire with clear clean glass. At this setting it kept me at 70 degrees last night with outside temps reported to be 26 below zero. If I turn it up to "A" =9 & "B" =9 it will heat me out! I have found some of these set points to be for auger speed, firebox air fan, room air fan and I thought I had one more. I'm at work and my notes are at home. One thing I can state is with any changes made, make them small and give them time. I always let the stove go for a min. of an hour before I adjust any other setting/s. I note my results before changing any other settings. Another great tool is a temp. gauge, I have one mounted in my room air vent, huge help in moderating your set point changes. Helpful hints are always welcome! HEAT ON!

Last weekend I did some tests on my 3-button 6039 that might help others. I took temp. readings at each of the following settings all of which having my room fan on high. A1, B1 = 121F, A2, B2 = 154F, A3, B3 = 177F, A4, B4 = 202F, A5, B5 = 232F, A6, B6 = 259F, A7, B7 = 287F A8, B8 = 313F. Never got to the 9 9 setting. All these tests were done with the damper open 5/8", never touched it once sett. The temp probe was inserted in the room air vent, last vent hole to the right and probe was 8" long.
Question, the C button has up and down sets and when I go all the way up with the up arrows I get a letter "A", my question is, what does this A stand for? Automatic, Auger????
I'm still learning, lots to play with as I dig into this model stove.

 

[jackofalltrades001]

This should help you out if you have control board #34, I put this together to help anyone that has this control board to get the board back to the factory settings. Hope this helps you out!



American Harvest

Model 6039

12/19/2013

For Control Board # 34


Board Factory Value Settings:

“A” Button Is Used For Fuel Rate

“B” Button Is Used For Combustion Air

Press “A” Button Once And The Reading Should Read 1Through 9

Press “A” Button Once Again And The Reading Should Read 1.5

Press “A” Button Once Again And The Reading Should Read 5.0


Press “B” Button Once And The Reading Should Read 9.0

Press “B” Button Once Again And The Reading Should Read 0.8


“C” Button Is Not Used, If The Red Light Comes On above The “C” Button That Means The Value shown Is Plus 100.

Listed Above Are The Pre-Set Values As This Control Board Would Have Come When New.

To Program This Board To Factory Values, Do The Following:

Press the “B” & “C” Buttons together, release when you see P1 in the display. Then use the up arrow above the “A” button to change the display to read P9. Then press the “ON” button and the board should turn off, if it doesn’t and you see a “D” or “dashes” just unplug the stove and plug it back in.

The control board should now be in the factory default setting and you should be good to go.

I run my stove on “A” 3 and “B” with a letter A lite up for automatic mode, damper out about a 1/2 to 5/8 of an inch which gives me a nice HOT fire.

NOTE: To find out what controller board number you have just unplug the stove and plug it back in, the numbers that show up in the display right after plugging it back in is your control board number.

 

[A. Ballard]

Hey folks I'M HERE. Sorry I haven't been here much , working and It's hunting season Reefwonders your problem has to be that the draft damper is closed to much. As scoop said his is out about an inch. The draft damper is nothing more than a manual damper right under the burn pot. The lever is directly in the center of stve right under door. Clean out the burn pot, put in a few handfuls of pellets, some starter jell or hit the pellets with propane torch for a minute to get em goin and close door. Hit the on button after a minute and I just leave mine on auto and heat range 2 (HR-2) on LED. Now pull that lever in center of stove out an inch or more. You should see flame dance and see some sparks coming from burn pot. Once pellets are fully lit you can play with that damper all you want, just be sure its out at leat 3/4 to1" If you are not getting the desired effect pulling out the damper lever than perhaps you are having problem with combustion blower or clog in chimney/vent. If you are burning pellets I just leave mine on auto and let her eat. Of course you can put the stove in many configurations and get many different burns. If the stove reads HR for heat ranges and not CR than its set up for pellets or pellets/corn mix and not 100% corn. The only time I've ever seen my stove do what your stove did is when someone accidently hit the damper in all the way and let it run for a few hours before we noticed. Also be sure the 2 plates at the rear at either side of burn pot are there and closed and be sure the 2 clean outs are closed on bottom of chamber. If the combustion fan doesn't work you should be getting an error code 7 I believe. Also we can try performing the factory tests if you believe the draft (combustion) fan is not working. Lets see what happens.

Schoondog

Mine does NOT have the manual damper, it keeps sounding like it is going to shut off (the room fan) it has been running for an hour now and the fan keeps almost shutting off. Last night it ran for maybe an hour and shut down with the LED blinking above "B". It looks as though this is a HI TEMP alarm, the unit is warm but nothing like my other stove (Countryside Magnum).
Thanks for any input.

 

[Grocho]

Hi All, I have had this question about how the #34 control board (part number 80487 at usstovefactorydirect) works, since it seems to be different than the majority of 6039 owners on the board. This control panel has A,B,C buttons, ON,OFF, HR up/down, and Room Fan up/Down

I finally just called US Stove about it. A button = Auger speed. B button = exhaust blower speed. The first time you press either button, it shows the set point for the low end of the heat range (HR 1). The second time you press it, it shows the set point for the high end of the heat range (HR 9). C button is simply auger delay. According to the rep, there is no automatic or manual mode, and really no other features on the control panel other than this. I assume the control panel calculates the intermediate feed and exhaust settings using these two end points as a line and interpolating the intermediaries..

Hope this resolves some confusion for others in my situation, it definitely clears things up for me.

 

[chieffan]

This stove allows unlimited variations on your burning conditions. I'm in my third season with the 6039 and I love it. There is a manual draft under the burn pot and the setting on the board is your draft fan.

Excuse me for butting in. New on the forum and new to the 6039. Mine is a used 6039T. I have no manual draft under the burn pot, only a 4" X 6" opening down into the ash pan. I am having a drafting problem according to the light on the new style board. What does this 'manual draft' look like? thanks much. Chieffan

 

[jackofalltrades001]

The center ash pan slid is what is used for draft control. I keep mine out 3/4" if not a bit more when below -15 or so. I took my slide out and used a chisel with a light tap on the edge every 1/4" then used a white paint stick at each tiny dent and wiped off any extra paint not needed. This helps to see my settings better in low light.

 

[chieffan]

The center ash pan slid is what is used for draft control. I keep mine out 3/4" if not a bit more when below -15 or so. I took my slide out and used a chisel with a light tap on the edge every 1/4" then used a white paint stick at each tiny dent and wiped off any extra paint not needed. This helps to see my settings better in low light.

My stove don't have a slide. Is this under the burn pot,. or under the stove over the ash pan? My part diagram don't show anything like this either.

 

[jackofalltrades001]

I have the 6039 model and it is the slide door right under the burn pot with a little spring handle on it. Also have 2 other slide doors one on each side of the burn pot, these two have small spring handles.

 

[chieffan]

I have the 6039 model and it is the slide door right under the burn pot with a little spring handle on it. Also have 2 other slide doors one on each side of the burn pot, these two have small spring handles.

OK. My stove, they tell me is a 6039T. It has the openings, but nothing over the opening under the burn pot. The two on either side of the burn pot as well as on the floor has a heavy angled removable iron piece that fits tight against the vertical opening and sits over the floor opening. I believe there is a difference in models for some reason. I am going to try closing off some of the large hole under the burn pot and see if I can get the draft error light to stay off. Thanks much for the information.

 

[mustangwagz]

OK. My stove, they tell me is a 6039T. It has the openings, but nothing over the opening under the burn pot. The two on either side of the burn pot as well as on the floor has a heavy angled removable iron piece that fits tight against the vertical opening and sits over the floor opening. I believe there is a difference in models for some reason. I am going to try closing off some of the large hole under the burn pot and see if I can get the draft error light to stay off. Thanks much for the information.

Mine doesnt have one either, its full open under the pot. Apparently we've got early models of this stove.

 

[jackofalltrades001]

This is what I am talking about on my American Harvest model 6039. This slide door is right under the burn pot attached to a small spring handle coming out the front of the stove. First photo show this slide 1/2 way open, the other shows it fully closed.