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You probably don't have a problem at all. With the warmish temps outside, the draft may have been poor, as begreen mentioned. Also, the secondary burning is not always that visible. The kind of fireworks you see in some of the pics aren't that common. Don't be concerned if you don't see them all the time. If the stove top is above, say, 450 or so, you can be pretty sure the secondaries are functioning.My chimney is 16 feet high. Outdoor temps at the time of the fire were 55-58; not that cold but I wanted to finish my burn-in fires while I could still keep the doors/windows open, and before it got really cold.
Yeah, when I was there, my own moisture content felt like 10%...10% in Arizona for well seasoned wood is normal.
I did, but probably not at the right point in time. And when I did the primary flames started to die down significantly. The manual says to expect a lazy flame once dialed down, so maybe I should have kept the air reduced.For the OP, how are you running your stove, did you reduce the primary air after the stove was up to temp, that's usually when you will see the secondaries come to life.
n3pro - are you saying that you have achieved secondaries under 500F as measured inside the firebox, or stove top?
Skin contact resistance will vary from roughly 3 k-ohm to 3 Meg-ohm, depending on how dry or sweaty you are. Since a wood moisture content meter is a resistance meter, I can't imagine getting very consistent readings on the palm of the hand, from one person to the next.And what does the meter show when you lay the pins on the palm of your hand? It should be in the mid 30's.
I know, and it's a good point. It was just intended to see if the meter was even functioning right. Every time I've seen a thread on the subject, just about everyone said it was in the low to mid 30's on them. Actually, I was surprised that it's as consistent as it is. As you correctly point out, it's not a calibration method at all.Skin contact resistance will vary from roughly 3 k-ohm to 3 Meg-ohm, depending on how dry or sweaty you are. Since a wood moisture content meter is a resistance meter, I can't imagine getting very consistent readings on the palm of the hand, from one person to the next.
peal back the skin to get a better readingSkin contact resistance will vary from roughly 3 k-ohm to 3 Meg-ohm, depending on how dry or sweaty you are. Since a wood moisture content meter is a resistance meter, I can't imagine getting very consistent readings on the palm of the hand, from one person to the next.
begreen, I am at about 5700 feet. I think you are right about better results once the temps go down.What altitude are you at? The chimney height requirement goes up with the altitude. 58F is pretty warm still. I think you will see better performance as the temps drop.
You may have a point there, old spark. I used a couple of small juniper splits N-S with some kindling criss-crossed on top of them. I took a chunk of a Super Cedar (maybe a quarter), put it undeneath the kindling and it got everything going nicely.What are you starting your fire with, the Oak, you may find it easier to get secondaries with a less dense wood plus the fire will stay going better when you turn down the air, Oak really likes a nice bed of coals due to its density.
Interesting. I just did a quick search. This site: (broken link removed to http://www.icc-rsf.com/en/design-considerations-for-the-excel-chimney) from Excel indicates that for every 1000 ft elevation, you should add 4% to the minimum sea level height of 12'. That would put the OP's minimum at about 15' assuming no tee's, bends or horizontal runs. A little better than I have here with 13' at 750' elevation. My draft is a bit marginal especially on warm days and a little smoke leakage when I open the door too quickly, but still functional.The chimney height requirement goes up with the altitude.
Makes sense that stoves designs will differ. I'm getting away with my low height, but I probably would be happier with more.This varies. Pre-EPA stoves may get away with 12 ft. but not many EPA stoves will. The minimum sea level height for his stove is 16 ft. Nappys like a fairly strong draft.
Trooper. Juniper is excellent for starting a fire and it smells great.
Makes sense that stoves designs will differ. I'm getting away with my low height, but I probably would be happier with more.
Trooper, do you have any offsets, horizontal runs or tee's in the system?
Is that to improve draft?Whenever you go to open the door with the fire going, open the air up all the way first, then open the door slowly to avoid spilling smoke.
No outside air intake, but my house is anything but tight. It's a cabin built in the 50s designed primarily for summer usage.Oh, one other issue. Do you have outside air intake for combustion? That can make a big difference, especially with a tight house or if you get negative pressure in the house from bathroom fans.
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