Birdman said:Let me know if I understand this then. In your design you have EITHER one or the other to use. In your setup you have to manually open valves to use the oil boiler OR to use the Tarm. In your design the oil can never " kick on " automatically to heat your house. Is that correct? If so... I guess i could do this as long as I don't have any lapses in my attending the Tarm... and I am able to judge the type of fire i need before leaving the house for the day. What if i judge wrong? If the oil boiler is valved off does this mean that teh electricity is still powered on for the oil boiler as mine has contols on it for the thermostats? This reply is to Mr. Ed's last post.
Birdman said:I like these ideas... however.... I don't like the idea of me looking for fixes like having to adjust the heat in one room to get another room up to temp. Yoiur solutions I may try if... for any reason... to keep me warm this year. I very much want a solution that will let me do this.... Turn up a thermostat and get the room to temp!.. and not have to worry about which room is hot or cold. I called Tarm last night at 4:45... praying I would get someone to talk to. I did. The people there have the best manners, and are extremely patient and knowledgable. Can't say enough about their customer service. Really topnotch. So.. they gave me a couple things to try and I did see some improvement.... but not enough. It was 18 degress last night and windy. I filled up the Tarm which was already about 150 F. I turned up the thermostat in bedroom #1 upstairs to 70. Downstairs bedrooms (#2 zone ) at 66. Cathedral living area( zone 3) to 68. All rooms were 60 to begin.... except upstair bedroom which was 63. The temp went up to 64 in the living room in about 4 hours. zone 2 went to 64. upstairs br to 65. I fed the tarm again at 10:30 for the rest of the night. At 10:30 all zones were still putting out heat... but the temp in the rooms was not increasing. I woke up at 6:00... checked the temps... all about the same... all zones still putting out heat. The heat coming out of zones is not wicked hot. Maybe if i could increase the temp of water to these zones it would be better? The return temp at the oil boiler is did not get below 125.... so that is good so my oil burner is not coming on. Solutions? I am still thinking hotter water to zones and maybe more baseboard? I have 34 ft of high output baseboard in cathedral living area?... I think if these things were crankin it should get hotter? This area does have high heat loss. 2 big sliders... 4 larger windows.. and of course.. all that volume of space to heat... not to mention it the heat goes up... i do have 2 fans pushing it down. 18 is cold... but i want to heat my house to at least 68 even when it is 5 degress outside. I know I have to increase the other side of the equation as well.... make the house less of a heat loss pig. However... that is tough when it is a log cabin...i want to put Tyvek around the outside walls... that may look trashy. kidding.
WoodNotOil said:Relays are like an "If Then" statement. You put the wire that feeds a less important pump through the relay and then have a more important pump charge the relay. When the relay is charged it is like an on/off switch. It would not allow the less important pump to run until the relay is no longer charged (by the more important one) then the less important pump could run. This relay would work for 110vac http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail?name=Z787-ND.
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