Roof Flashing Advice

[Ludlow]

...like this...
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It is in the water course anyway. As long as the bracket and fasteners are sealed it is no different than being on top of a shingle as far as function. I like the look!

 

[RandyBoBandy]

I have seen the proper vent run the whole way up in a cathedral ceiling application. Dont try to compress a too high R-Value batt in there. Doing it from the top side could be a bit tough. They are meant to be stapled in from below.

I have a popcorn ceiling that I will be removing to put up a tongue and groove ceiling. I scraped 3 bedrooms and a hallway... never again. I can always do the proper vent at that time.

 

[AlbergSteve]

No they can be used full height if need be. It all depends on your needs. And i have been in the construction feild a long time and never seen a roof done like that. Not saying its wrong but not stsndard practice at all. There are much cheaper and easier ways that work as well.

It's code in BC/Canada...unless you want to build an unvented space. It ain't cheap.

 

[Hogwildz]

Cut shingles 1/2" to 3/4 gap around flashing base. This allows mostly for the granulars and debris to wash down instead of getting built up in crack, which can cause daming. Shingle over the pan as much as you can or till last course. If you want to get fancy, cut a shingle tab and set it in sealant to cover the bottom of the base flashing, but leave a gap on each side extending down from the gap around the base above. Nailing the bottom corners of the base flange is common, and sealant over top the nail heads. Screws with washers are fine also. Some overtighten the screws and warp the flange though causing it to belly, buckle and gap. Ice & water is a no no on bottom exposed area. Ice & water is not meant to be exposed, and it will deteriorate in sunlight exposure over time. Ice and water under the bottom of the flange and over the shingle top below it but short of being exposed from under the bottom flange. Ice and water over the side flanges &then top flange, then shingle over it. Black jack is roofing cement in a tube. It will seal under the base of the flashing, but if you need to pull the flashing up for any reason, it's a mess and sucks. A bracket under the tab is fine, but I'd still put a dab of sealant over the fastener under the tab, and I'd move the bracket up closer to the bottom of the tab above it to leave less water running in that pic against the bracket.. The cuts around the base in that photo are crap, and nothing to brag about. Sorry, I know truth hurts, but if you're going to show photos of your work and say you been doing this for 20 years, you're not making yourself look good. I was a roofer by trade for years, nothing but commercial & residential roofing. The only real sealant you need it around the storm collar.

A simple flat bar is all I ever used to separate the seal on shingles. Best to do it when the shingles have had some sun, otherwise if they are older, they could just pull off pcs of the shingle underneath or tear the tab above.

 

[Hogwildz]

I have a popcorn ceiling that I will be removing to put up a tongue and groove ceiling. I scraped 3 bedrooms and a hallway... never again. I can always do the proper vent at that time.

Shoot the T&G right over the popcorn, save yourself the aggravation.

 

[Hogwildz]

Those trays are used between the top chord of the trusses/rafter only at the wall line - when the insulator blows in his insulation the tray prevents the insulation from blocking air flow from the soffit. For vaulted ceilings, horizontal 2x4 strapping is required to maintain air flow.
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The only time we used horizontal slats was to install cedar shakes or slate which does require the horizontal slates to give an air space for breathing under the cedar or slate as they are not to be mounted to decking itself. Horizontal slats offer no ventilation movement up & down, and don't offer ventilation on a typical sheathed deck & shingle roof. The ventilation travels from bottom to top in the rafter cavities. Vaulted ceilings require continuous baffles if batt insulation is to be installed, and you are correct for blow in, just a run or two at the bottom depending on how deep they blow in the blown in.

 

[bholler]

Cut shingles 1/2" to 3/4 gap around flashing base. This allows mostly for the granulars and debris to wash down instead of getting built up in crack, which can cause daming. Shingle over the pan as much as you can or till last course. If you want to get fancy, cut a shingle tab and set it in sealant to cover the bottom of the base flashing, but leave a gap on each side extending down from the gap around the base above. Nailing the bottom corners of the base flange is common, and sealant over top the nail heads. Screws with washers are fine also. Some overtighten the screws and warp the flange though causing it to belly, buckle and gap. Ice & water is a no no on bottom exposed area. Ice & water is not meant to be exposed, and it will deteriorate in sunlight exposure over time. Ice and water under the bottom of the flange and over the shingle top below it but short of being exposed from under the bottom flange. Ice and water over the side flanges &then top flange, then shingle over it. Black jack is roofing cement in a tube. It will seal under the base of the flashing, but if you need to pull the flashing up for any reason, it's a mess and sucks. A bracket under the tab is fine, but I'd still put a dab of sealant over the fastener under the tab, and I'd move the bracket up closer to the bottom of the tab above it to leave less water running in that pic against the bracket.. The cuts around the base in that photo are crap, and nothing to brag about. Sorry, I know truth hurts, but if you're going to show photos of your work and say you been doing this for 20 years, you're not making yourself look good. I was a roofer by trade for years, nothing but commercial & residential roofing. The only real sealant you need it around the storm collar.

A simple flat bar is all I ever used to separate the seal on shingles. Best to do it when the shingles have had some sun, otherwise if they are older, they could just pull off pcs of the shingle underneath or tear the tab above.

Very well said on every point. I typically use a flat bar to but i have found a slate roofing tool that i sharpened the leading edge of works well on tough shingles.

 

[webby3650]

I also use a flat bar. It’s getting tougher and tougher though with these new shingles. If people wouldn’t wait till October to have a stove installed it would be better.

 

[Ludlow]

Best to do it when the shingles have had some sun, otherwise if they are older, they could just pull off pcs of the shingle underneath or tear the tab above.

Complete opposite of my experiences. If the shingles are warm the tar strip is too sticky and either spiderwebs between the two or the face tears off of one or the other. When its cold and stiff it oftentimes just pops right off without leaving a trace on the underside of the top shingle if you use a thin tool like I showed. Roofing is fun as long as it's cool out. The sun and me dont agree on anything.

 

[Ludlow]

Very well said on every point. I typically use a flat bar to but i have found a slate roofing tool that i sharpened the leading edge of works well on tough shingles.

One edge of my cake spatula is sharpened like a knife.

 

[bholler]

One edge of my cake spatula is sharpened like a knife.

I am sure that works but i can use the slate tool to pull nails i can hammer it in or out. I like it. And i got it at a fleamarket for $1

 

[Hogwildz]

Very well said on every point. I typically use a flat bar to but i have found a slate roofing tool that i sharpened the leading edge of works well on tough shingles.

I still have a slate rake and cutter around here somewhere. While I loved doing slate, I hated it just as much. Not to mention the bees & bats.

 

[Hogwildz]

I am sure that works but i can use the slate tool to pull nails i can hammer it in or out. I like it. And i got it at a fleamarket for $1

That's a great deal, they ain't cheap!

 

[Ludlow]

I am sure that works but i can use the slate tool to pull nails i can hammer it in or out. I like it. And i got it at a fleamarket for $1

I always wanted one of those!. When I pull the nails I just go up under the shingle with a wonderbar and pound up a few taps on the nail to widen the nailhole. Then the nail just lifts out easy peasy.

 

[RandyBoBandy]

Shoot the T&G right over the popcorn, save yourself the aggravation.

Normally I would agree but the ceiling, even though a cathedral, is still not very tall. I don’t know if I want to give up another 3/4”. Probably sounds stupid I know.

 

[RandyBoBandy]

I like the look and feel of how you guys have installed your flashing. With the shingle almost meeting the edge of the bottom flap on the flashing. As far as installing the fasteners, I think it's best from a rigidity standpoint as you can essentially hide them under four or five courses of shingles. My only concern with tearing out a lot of shingles, is getting the new ones to stick. It's getting cold here and I'm not sure if the factory adhesive will set without the heat of the sun.

Does your roof get any full sun during the day?

 

[KJamesJR]

Does your roof get any full sun during the day?

The install is going on the north facing side of this particular roof. It’s an 8/12 pitch so not much sun, if any reaches it. I’m hoping I won’t have to fight with prying them up too much.

I was thinking that if worst case, I have a propane torch. Maybe I can warm them up a bit if need be. Not sure if that idea is too bright.

The roof is brand new (2 years old). Was stripped re-sheathed, ice and water up to the ridge and and 30 year architectural put down. So they’re not old and crumbling. Hopefully all goes well. If I screw up, at least I still have an extra bundle of shingles leftover to make repairs.

The weather is supposed to warm up next week, back into the mid 50’s. Just need the rain to hold off for a day. At which point, I’ll cut the roof.

 

[webby3650]

Most places I've done we cut the hole for the vent and run it out through the roof the the roofer comes along and slides the flashing over it. The place I'm working on now I saw they cut the hole where they wanted the vent and when I went to put the terminal out I realized they put on the flashing too.
It's vaulted ceilings and the vent 2 stories + so I'm up in the rafters trying to ram this pipe through the flashing and trying not to look down but it's in a difficult spot. I was thinking of greasing the pipe and flashing up to help.
Any thoughts? What type of grease?

I don’t know what kind of pipe you are running, but that never works out for class A pipe. You will be limited on your offset making it almost impossible to hit an existing hole. Not to mention they rarely cut the hole correctly to maintain proper clearance. Don’t use grease lol, you must have the wrong flashing if it’s that tight.

 

[MelissaPeterss]

I only use it on the storm collar. On the bottom edge of the flashing I use 2 roofing screws with rubber washers to hold it down. The rest should need no sealer if the shingles are done correctly