I couldnt use your brand if I wanted to. I had to hang over 7 feet of class A in my ceiling to get past a spreader beam in the cathedral that was 3" from the pipe.. Selkirk was the only brand that would do what I needed done, unless there are parts that I just couldnt find in other brands.
Roof Flashing Advice
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I couldnt use your brand if I wanted to. I had to hang over 7 feet of class A in my ceiling to get past a spreader beam in the cathedral that was 3" from the pipe.. Selkirk was the only brand that would do what I needed done, unless there are parts that I just couldnt find in other brands.
You can do that with ventis or excell. And you can get ventis powder coated so it looks good 2. But yes in that case you would have a clamp that wouldnt fit through the flashing
We talked about that before. I didnt have a source for those brands at the time, but in the future I think I just might!
Im amazed at the techniques that pro's come up with. Im sure you have a few tricks I never thought of. Where were you when I was up there?
Shingles are harder and harder to come up for a flashing install. I’ve posted my proven process pics in the past. It’s a streamlined method, works great.
AlbergSteve
Minister of Fire
Twenty five years in construction and I've never removed shingles to install roof flashings or skylights. NO exposed fasteners, the shingles should cover the whole flashing including the fasteners in the flashing and the braces.
Yes of course there are times they wont come up. But by lifting them when possible i get to put a layer of ice guard down under it and another over it. It is an extra layer of protection i really like to do that is not possible without lifting some shingles
RandyBoBandy
Minister of Fire
This is what I uncovered during my “simple” chimney swap and the later pic is what I ended up with after replacing plywood and putting down water an ice shield and new shingles. The water and ice around the bottom of the flashing is unnecessary I know but keep in mind I’m not a roofer or chimney installer or sweep. Just a poor landscaper trying to stay warm. Now I have to start saving for a new roof. The idiot that I bought this house from did not keep up with maintenance very well to put it politely.
I like the look and feel of how you guys have installed your flashing. With the shingle almost meeting the edge of the bottom flap on the flashing. As far as installing the fasteners, I think it's best from a rigidity standpoint as you can essentially hide them under four or five courses of shingles. My only concern with tearing out a lot of shingles, is getting the new ones to stick. It's getting cold here and I'm not sure if the factory adhesive will set without the heat of the sun.
sportbikerider78
Minister of Fire
I think you did fine.
When I did mine, I did not use any fasteners at the exposed bottom edge. I figured..how can that really go anywhere? It hasn't.
When I did mine, I did not use any fasteners at the exposed bottom edge. I figured..how can that really go anywhere? It hasn't.
It can’t go anywhere, but bugs, water, and debris can be driven up there if it’s not sitting down tight. It just depends how it lands on the shingle below it.
How would you do it when the pipe had to be set and the flashing slid down over it? It wasnt very warm and the shingles were stiff. My experience just told me that my way was the best option in my case. Standing on a ladder laying up the rake of a 10/12 while holding a 3' section of class A pipe and trying to hold 4 courses of shingles on both sides up in the air and getting the wide flashing that would have to be captive to the pipe under them seemed problematic and I didnt even attempt that. Maybe you are a better man than I. If so my hats off to you.
I wonder if that was caused by condensation or even something as simple as an uncaulked storm collar?
RandyBoBandy
Minister of Fire
I’m not sure. But there are a lot of soft spots up on my roof. I’m basically going to price it out as replacing all the plywood, possibly insulation as well, and metal roofing.
RandyBoBandy
Minister of Fire
I only nailed down the upper half of flashing. Then water an iced the he$$ out of it and caulked the bottom edge of the flashing.
The bottom edge of the flashing should not be covered with shingles.
When attaching a roof brace kit to a chimney the fasteners are exposed, no way around it. I put sealant under the bracket, then use gasketed screws to fasten it.
You should not caulk the bottom edge. If any water gets in there you want to be sure it can easily get out
RandyBoBandy
Minister of Fire
Where the center of the pipe ends up will dictate exactly where the bottom edge of the flashing hits in relation to the bottom edge of the shingles. Its all about luck on that unless you pick the stove location according to how the flashing is going to look.
I lean toward insufficient ventilation in the roof. Notice how the OSB is crumbling but there is no appreciable rot in the framing? Why are the rafter bays insulated anyway? Is there a ceiling below the attic or is it a cathedral?
I would just let it run wild. If it doesnt hit at or below the edge of the shingle above it, then you lay it on top of the next row up. Importance to be placed on watertight first, cosmetics second.
That was a crappy roofing job. Look at the ridge cap. Every dang shingle had exposed nails. They should have been under the next shingle all the way to the center of the ridge cap where you must have 4 exposed nails.
I would have left off the ice shield and trimmed the shingles about a finger width from the cone but otherwise, not bad.
Im not sure that ridgevent is doing a darned thing. If there is no airflow under the roof deck there is no point in putting that on. That is why I have never used OSB. If it doesnt have great ventilation it will crumble like potato chips. I pay the added cost for CDX.
Why no ice sheild? I agree it should not be on the part below the flashing where it is exposed but i use it on every one that i pull shingles on both under the flashing then over it.
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