Replacement engine for Huskee 22T splitter

[Nywooddude]

I went with an 11 hp Intek engine, 21R707 0079 F1. It's a direct drop-on, and can easily drive pumps up to 22 GPM, if you resolve some of the line size and hydro cooling issues inherent to these splitters. I'm presently running 19 GPM with only a few line size upgrades and no additional cooling, and it's fine.

What you'll find is if you try to run a big pump on a small motor, or the stock system with small line sizes, is that the motor really bogs. If it can't maintain RPM under no load, then you're wasting fuel and not getting full speed.

PS - when I said "direct drop-on", I meant the shaft orientation and length were correct. I think the shaft diameter was slightly larger, because I remember buying a Lovejoy half coupling for the new shaft, which mated right up with the old spider and half coupling already on the machine. Also, I did have to drill new mounting holes in the mounting plate on the splitter for the new motor. It was actually pretty easy, after mating the Lovejoy and wasting an evening measuring 3x, in an extra-anal demonstration of "measure twice, cut once".

Which lines did you upgrade with your 19gpm pump? I'm thinking just the pressure line from pump to cylinder and the return. And what did you upgrade the original lines to.
Your Intek is a vertical shaft I'm assuming as you mentioned direct drop in with only drilling holes for the base correct?
Thanks in advance for any advice you can give

 

[Ashful]

Which lines did you upgrade with your 19gpm pump? I'm thinking just the pressure line from pump to cylinder and the return. And what did you upgrade the original lines to.
Your Intek is a vertical shaft I'm assuming as you mentioned direct drop in with only drilling holes for the base correct?
Thanks in advance for any advice you can give

I'll check my records tomorrow on the line sizes, but I specifically remember getting rid of the hard line on the cylinder, replacing that with a larger hose, and swapping the suction line and bung fitting. That line is low pressure, so no problem going with a thin-wall hose barb for the tank bung. I'll bet I have a spreadsheet filed somewhere with all the line size changes, I'll see if I can find it tomorrow.

Yes, motor dropped right on, with buying a new Lovejoy coupling half to fit the new shaft diameter. And yes, just had to drill three new bolt holes in the mounting plate, to match up with the new motor. I arranged it so exhaust is outboard, away from cylinder and pointing away from operator.

 

[Nywooddude]

I'll check my records tomorrow on the line sizes, but I specifically remember getting rid of the hard line on the cylinder, replacing that with a larger hose, and swapping the suction line and bung fitting. That line is low pressure, so no problem going with a thin-wall hose barb for the tank bung. I'll bet I have a spreadsheet filed somewhere with all the line size changes, I'll see if I can find it tomorrow.

Yes, motor dropped right on, with buying a new Lovejoy coupling half to fit the new shaft diameter. And yes, just had to drill three new bolt holes in the mounting plate, to match up with the new motor. I arranged it so exhaust is outboard, away from cylinder and pointing away from operator.

Thanks again 👍

 

[Ashful]

Sorry for the slow reply on this, been busy. Here's what I was able to find in my notes:

I assume that "2017" might be the stock configuration? I honestly don't recall.

I also did some quick math on cylinder stroke times and force, although depending on how pump speed is rated (at 0 psi?), actual times seem to be slightly slower than this:

I didn't list required reservoir size, because that's honestly dependent on so many factors as to make all "rules of thumb" you'll find out there totally invalid. 99% will say you can't run 19 GPM on a 7 gallon tank, but I've been doing it quite a while (10 cords?), with no trouble. It does get warm, but not warm enough to violate the 180 - 200F temperatures that ATF sees in your car for 60k miles at a time. Non-issue.

Somewhere on this forum, if you search my handle and McMaster-Carr and "fitting", you'll find I've listed the part number of the thin wall fitting and suction hose I had bought to retrofit my machine. The NPT fitting in the bottom of the stock tank and the cylinder port sizes limit you from going beyond 18-19 GPM on this machine.

 

[Nywooddude]

Sorry for the slow reply on this, been busy. Here's what I was able to find in my notes:

View attachment 335034

I assume that "2017" might be the stock configuration? I honestly don't recall.

I also did some quick math on cylinder stroke times and force, although depending on how pump speed is rated (at 0 psi?), actual times seem to be slightly slower than this:

View attachment 335035

Hey much appreciated. Have a great new Year

 

[Ashful]

BTW, I went back and looked again at the numbers. The "2017" column in the table above is definitely not stock, as it shows my 344cc engine upgrade, and a 1" suction line on the pump. I'd guess that was just my first upgrade phase.

Bottom line, it's not terribly difficult to upgrade this machine to hit sub-8 second cycle times. But to be totally honest, it's not the path I'd choose if starting over today. If starting from scratch, I'd just choose the cheap commercial (Huskee, Speeco, DHT, etc.) machine with the largest pump I could fine, which will be already set up with the larger lines, tank, and engine required to drive that pump. Then I'd just "downgrade" the cylinder from whatever stupid useless Ø5" or Ø6" cylinder they're putting on those things, to a more reasonable Ø4" cylinder for better speed.

In literally 100+ cords split on my splitter, I have yet to come across a piece of wood that 22 tons won't split, on the factory wedge. The only reason I can see for going to a 5" cylinder would be a 2-way wedge (4 splits per stroke), and the only reason I can see for going to 6" would be larger multi-way wedges.

I've become somewhat attached to my little Huskee 22-ton. It reminds me of our old mod @BrotherBart, and another old member @Backwoods Savage, who both convinced me to buy that model. If not for that, I'd probably just sell it and start over with the latest 35-ton machine and a new 4" cylinder to retrofit onto it.

 

[brenndatomu]

If starting from scratch, I'd just choose the cheap commercial (Huskee, Speeco, DHT, etc.) machine with the largest pump I could fine, which will be already set up with the larger lines, tank, and engine required to drive that pump. Then I'd just "downgrade" the cylinder from whatever stupid useless Ø5" or Ø6" cylinder they're putting on those things, to a more reasonable Ø4" cylinder for better speed.

Exactly!

and another old member @Backwoods Savage,

I'm sure Dennis would appreciate a quick hello over on the other site...he's still on there most days.

 

[hedge wood]

BTW, I went back and looked again at the numbers. The "2017" column in the table above is definitely not stock, as it shows my 344cc engine upgrade, and a 1" suction line on the pump. I'd guess that was just my first upgrade phase.

Bottom line, it's not terribly difficult to upgrade this machine to hit sub-8 second cycle times. But to be totally honest, it's not the path I'd choose if starting over today. If starting from scratch, I'd just choose the cheap commercial (Huskee, Speeco, DHT, etc.) machine with the largest pump I could fine, which will be already set up with the larger lines, tank, and engine required to drive that pump. Then I'd just "downgrade" the cylinder from whatever stupid useless Ø5" or Ø6" cylinder they're putting on those things, to a more reasonable Ø4" cylinder for better speed.

In literally 100+ cords split on my splitter, I have yet to come across a piece of wood that 22 tons won't split, on the factory wedge. The only reason I can see for going to a 5" cylinder would be a 2-way wedge (4 splits per stroke), and the only reason I can see for going to 6" would be larger multi-way wedges.

I've become somewhat attached to my little Huskee 22-ton. It reminds me of our old mod @BrotherBart, and another old member @Backwoods Savage, who both convinced me to buy that model. If not for that, I'd probably just sell it and start over with the latest 35-ton machine and a new 4" cylinder to retrofit onto it.

My go to splitter is a homemade with a hyd log lift and it runs a four inch cylinder with a two inch rod. I run a 18 HP BS twin with a 28GPM two stage pump. Normally split 10-20 cord a year of all hard wood mostly nasty hedge. I don't see the need for a five or six inch cylinder I like the speed of the four inch. A good thin sharp wedge and reading the would and a four inch cylinder will split most any thing. If it won't you need a saw or just throw it in the brush pile before you break your splitter.

 

[brenndatomu]

I don't see the need for a five or six inch cylinder I like the speed of the four inch. A good thin sharp wedge and reading the would and a four inch cylinder will split most any thing

Agreed!