No, relief is set at 2500, low speed/high pressure switchover is somewhere in the 4-500 psi range...the 1k I mentioned was what I see when busting up nasty stringy/crotch/knots logs, so my point was that people almost never actually "need" 20+ tons of force like they think they do...like I said earlier, 22 tons would crush rocks.
If the pump is too big for the engine what is going to happen? Stall out the engine on the tough pieces would be my guess but I figured I'd ask.
Warning: hardcore splitter mod geekout ahead!
I find it hard to find detailed specs on the low flow high pressure GPM side. All pumps advertise their low pressure speed but not so much with the high pressure side.
Right, only about 1/3 is a full stroke as I split in outdoor furnace lengths and indoor stove lengths.. was just looking a 16gpm Dalton and theirs is listed as 16/5 for high/low speed and that definitely puts me over the HP rating of the 212cc engine if the 5gpm at high pressure is correct. But as of yet that's the only website that lists anything for the high/low GPM both and if looking on Amazon at the $110-170 ones there's no info available. I've been going through that log splitter plans site said about earlier and none of the websites have anything about that except Dalton
Just for the sake of curiosity, I tried running a 16 GPM pump on the stock Briggs 675e engine, that came on my Huskee 22-ton splitter, and it wouldn't even dry-cycle the cylinder on 60°F ATF without serious bogging. It was in no way a "useable" rig.
I know you know this, but for everyone else, the numbers stamped on these pumps are rated in mL/revolution displacement. Those numbers printed on the side of every pump (eg. 13.4/3.8) translate to 12.74 and 3.61 GPM at 3600 RPM. At low pressure, before bypass valve spills around the 13.4 mL/rev stage, you have the sum of both stages working in parallel... 12.74 + 3.61 = 16.35 GPM. When pressure builds beyond bypass setting, some or all of the fluid pushes around the high-speed stage, dropping speed toward an eventual 3.8 mL/rev = 3.6 GPM at 3600 RPM.
Alright thanks for sharing this experience, I decided to go 13gpm Rugged Made pump.. I figured that's an extra 20% speed without having to take the 212cc engine back and go up to 300cc (which would cost another $200) and then I can crank the unloading speed and max pressure up real high without getting too much temperature rise in the hydraulic fluid like it would with 16gpm. If I would have known all that I do now I probably would have gotten a 300cc engine to start with..
Sounds like the engine needs a tune up. At least tell him to try some Seafoam in it.
Just go horizontal, its an easy change really.
Take a look a post 14-16. I just finished up a old 22 ton Husky for a co worker of a friend of mine right before Christmas. It was a lady in her mid fifty's and wanted electric start so we up the game a little and went with a HF 13 HP with electric start. I bought the 22 GPM pump and pump engine bracket from Surplus Center in Lincoln Nebraska. She called me yesterday and said how much her and her husband are enjoying the new set up. They split wood for a week over the Christmas holiday.
When you say the 16gpm on the 8 hp "just plays with the load" what does that mean?. Not trying to be a wiseguy just wondering if it's good or bad.
Also why is lowering the pressure relief necessary? Is it because the structure might not handle the force?
5 hp electric with a 16 GPH pump sound like one rugged rig. I’m very satisfied that I went electric despite being limited to the dooryard. There’s one less gas engine to maintain and fiddle with. This is especially helpful as it sets idle so much these days. The 2hp motor with the 11GPM pump has done all that I have needed.
Doesn't even know its there...so that's why I am going to switch to a 6.5 HP (8HP has oil leak)
The "5 HP" (its labeled 5, but the full load amps say more like 4) doesn't quite have the power to pull the 16 GPM at 3000 PSI...when I switch to a true 5 HP electric motor there will be no issues.
Did you upsize all the fittings and hoses too?
I would love to have an election motor set up, unfortunately it wouldn't work in my situation. Thanks for your clarification and wealth of knowledge on this subject
The answer to that question is yes but that was done ten years ago. I had a gentlemen bring this splitter to me ten years ago with a broken hyd cylinder on it. I reworked the splitter to install much more commercial duty cylinder I got from surplus center and up graded the valve and all the hoses back then. He decided not to pay the bill and told me to keep the splitter. Back then I bought and sold a lot of splitters and snowblower's I sold this splitter and a few years later it got sold to these folks that I switched the engine for. It always a little strange when a piece of equipment you worked on at one time comes back threw the shop. I do very little side work any more and wouldn't done this if it wouldn't been because of my friend and this lady being co workers.
I did notice some mention on hydraulic pump height. If I went with a 16gpm mounted on a horizontal 8hp is it possible I'd encounter problems with the pump being above the hydro fluid tank?
At or below the upper oil level is best, but you see plenty of box store splitters that have the pump higher and get away with it...as long as you keep the oil level up and the pump doesn't suck air it should be fine...I guess in the end you would only be losing a $100-150 pump. (Unless you pony up for a high dollar one)
I went with an 11 hp Intek engine, 21R707 0079 F1. It's a direct drop-on, and can easily drive pumps up to 22 GPM, if you resolve some of the line size and hydro cooling issues inherent to these splitters. I'm presently running 19 GPM with only a few line size upgrades and no additional cooling, and it's fine.
