Regency l3100 Cracks

[begreen]

What's the big deal with having a serial number anyways? I get it on something complicated like a car, that may have mid year changes, but with something simple like a stove...I mean its pretty obvious what make n model it is...and there is a build date showing, so why is a serial number really needed? (other than its their policy or something)
Is this one of those "lifetime" warranty's that doesn't amount to much of anything after about the first 2-3 years?

Most likely because the warranty only applies to the original owner.

 

[davidmsem]

I do have pictures of it being installed.......

 

[davidmsem]

Just wanted to let folks know and have on the record in the public forum that Regency did indeed respond favorably, but not completely so from the consumer's standpoint. I understand they could have gone by the letter of the law and left me totally out in the cold. I am the legitimate original owner and ran the furnace in a manner consistent with the owner's manual. I did check with Regency and they say they have no problems with flu heights up to 35 ft. My flue height is 30 ft so well within what Regency is comfortable with. We religiously choked down the fire.

Regency was very thorough and I needed to provide lots of photographs of the unit being installed proofs of address etc etc. Very reasonable things to prove I was the original owner, even though I did not register the unit and I do not have the receipt. The serial number was crinkled off the tab (why not a metal tab?)

The local dealer indicated that Regency is offering the i-2450m as a suitable replacement. The dealer was a little difficult in that I asked him to at least try to engage with Regency and tell them that I had 14 cord of wood already cut that won't fit in the i-2450m and see if they would be open to offering and allowance toward another unit or a refund so I could purchase another unit that would accommodate the size log that I currently have cut. I should note that Regency replace the blower kit which was an accessory. Also the door because the door is different between the 3100 and the 2450. Surround included as well.

Local dealership refused to even take 10 minutes to respond with those questions, and while I was working in parallel to engage Regency via the customer service email correspondence, the dealer went ahead and just ordered the unit for warranty replacement. I would have used the allowance toward the Regency 2700.

So now I have the Regency i-2450m, brand new in the crate sitting in my garage. There are worse problems to have, but now I'm not sure what to do. I think the only thing I can do is sell this unit and get the proper unit for me for the next 10 to 20 years hopefully. The unit they shipped is a medium and I would like a larger unit. Worst case I just leave it in the garage and God forbid I ever have another failure I've got a backup fireplace insert.

Any advice on where to sell or list this unit for sale? Not entirely sure on the price to ask either as the purchaser will get a brand new unit but it will be without a warranty. Facebook marketplace seems like a good start but I don't really know where fireplace inserts are purchased.

 

[stoveliker]

If you are not in direct need of the money of selling the i-2450m, I'd indeed put it up on craigslist (as new in crate) or facebook mp or something like that. You can hold somewhat firm on the price as you're not in a hurry. I bought my stove like that.

I am not sure about pricing, but a new in crate model I think could go for 75-80% of the new price due to the warranty not being there, and possible lack of (or trouble in getting) service. That's my rather uninformed guess.

Glad they at least admitted the principle that you were the first owner and did nothing wrong.

 

[davidmsem]

If you are not in direct need of the money of selling the i-2450m, I'd indeed put it up on craigslist (as new in crate) or facebook mp or something like that. You can hold somewhat firm on the price as you're not in a hurry. I bought my stove like that.

I am not sure about pricing, but a new in crate model I think could go for 75-80% of the new price due to the warranty not being there, and possible lack of (or trouble in getting) service. That's my rather uninformed guess.

Glad they at least admitted the principle that you were the first owner and did nothing wrong.

In searching for the unit to replace this, other dealers gave me quotes on the i-2450m when I told him of my situation. They gave me the same advice as you have, 75 to 80%. With energy prices going up in inflation dealers think I would not have a problem selling it. Let's find out.

Not in immediate need of the cash.

With all the experience here, it seems this set up in my home has a very strong draft. That's not going to change and I don't want to put a damper in a fireplace insert installation. That pushes me to The blaze King princess 29 insert, but I'm not sure it'll have enough punch to heat like the 3100 used to. That draws me to the Pacific energy LE which may overheat in my setup. Not sure what will bring me to a decision but I'm definitely thrashing on these two units.

 

[stoveliker]

Too strong draft for the Princess is not good either. Maybe it can work with more draft, but I know that @kennyp2339 has added 2 key dampers (stove version).

I'm not sure what the chimney height is for him, and I don't remember whether the Princess insert has a metal or ceramic cat - the metal one has smaller "holes", and with strong draft fly-ash sometimes flies into the cat. Clogging the cat is therefore sometimes an issue with too much draft, and more so for a metal cat.

I don't remember your response (or I'm mixing different threads by different posters) but I thought you did not run the Regency at full blast? Therefore (if my memory is correct) I don't think you should be worried about the heat output of the Princess. The Regency choked down is going to be quite far below the Princess at full blast.

What is your hesitance about the damper? I did not get that yet. To me it appeared that the feedback you got from this one dealer employee ("can't say, so don't do") was not correct. A stove is meant to work in a system with a certain draft. If the system is not drafting enough, folks add chimney height. If a system is drafting too much, one has to decrease that for safe operation. Cutting chimney height off is most of the time not an option. A damper is.

Both stoves are from good brands.

 

[bholler]

In searching for the unit to replace this, other dealers gave me quotes on the i-2450m when I told him of my situation. They gave me the same advice as you have, 75 to 80%. With energy prices going up in inflation dealers think I would not have a problem selling it. Let's find out.

Not in immediate need of the cash.

With all the experience here, it seems this set up in my home has a very strong draft. That's not going to change and I don't want to put a damper in a fireplace insert installation. That pushes me to The blaze King princess 29 insert, but I'm not sure it'll have enough punch to heat like the 3100 used to. That draws me to the Pacific energy LE which may overheat in my setup. Not sure what will bring me to a decision but I'm definitely thrashing on these two units.

I am glad they took care of you. It just stinks they don't have a comperable unit available

 

[davidmsem]

Too strong draft for the Princess is not good either. Maybe it can work with more draft, but I know that @kennyp2339 has added 2 key dampers (stove version).

I'm not sure what the chimney height is for him, and I don't remember whether the Princess insert has a metal or ceramic cat - the metal one has smaller "holes", and with strong draft fly-ash sometimes flies into the cat. Clogging the cat is therefore sometimes an issue with too much draft, and more so for a metal cat.

I don't remember your response (or I'm mixing different threads by different posters) but I thought you did not run the Regency at full blast? Therefore (if my memory is correct) I don't think you should be worried about the heat output of the Princess. The Regency choked down is going to be quite far below the Princess at full blast.

What is your hesitance about the damper? I did not get that yet. To me it appeared that the feedback you got from this one dealer employee ("can't say, so don't do") was not correct. A stove is meant to work in a system with a certain draft. If the system is not drafting enough, folks add chimney height. If a system is drafting too much, one has to decrease that for safe operation. Cutting chimney height off is most of the time not an option. A damper is.

Both stoves are from good brands.

Thank you for pointing out that too much draft is not good for a BK Princess 29 and explaining why.

I NEVER ran the Regency "full blast" (to me that means opened up air). It ALWAYS needed to be fully choked when a full load was placed in and it would run up to 700ish, plateau for an hour approximately, and then drop down. I could not pull the stove back from running up to the high end of the safe range.

Dealers here WILL NOT install with a damper. There is no direction from the manufacturer to do that and they said it's a liability issue. Dealers locally don't want the liability.

Understand both are good stoves, just not sure which one will be best and I've had a real nightmare.

 

[davidmsem]

I am glad they took care of you. It just stinks they don't have a comperable unit available

Thanks. This could be worse.

But I have to go through the trouble of storing this and selling this in order to get the proper sized unit.

Why wouldn't they just give me an allowance toward a large Regency unit?

Do they think I will purchase another Regency after this? Why not keep a customer in the fold?

Water over the dam.

Thank goodness I kept some records and that Regency was reasonable.

 

[DuaeGuttae]

Thanks for the update. It’s good to have that on the original thread.

It sounds as though it was the dealer rather than Regency who didn’t listen to your request for an allowance rather than a medium unit. That’s too bad. On the other hand, I saw that you posted in the classifieds here, and I would expect that will work out well for you and for whoever gets a brand new stove at a discount. This way instead of having to stick to the same brand, you can get what will work best for your situation (once you figure that out, and I know you’ve been working away at it). I’ll be very interested to hear your draft results once you have the gauge and are able to measure.

 

[davidmsem]

Had to share this. Took the faceplate off the Regency 3100 to get some measurements regarding the new insert to replace it. Found this beauty.

Quiz ...See if anyone might know what is wrong in this picture?

There is a whole 180° on the other side. Evidently this must have been some type of damper device. Dude must have not had the correct parts on the truck so he jammed this in there after taking out damper or something else out and just used it. I've had two holes in this for quite some time.

 

[davidmsem]

Thanks for the update. It’s good to have that on the original thread.

It sounds as though it was the dealer rather than Regency who didn’t listen to your request for an allowance rather than a medium unit. That’s too bad. On the other hand, I saw that you posted in the classifieds here, and I would expect that will work out well for you and for whoever gets a brand new stove at a discount. This way instead of having to stick to the same brand, you can get what will work best for your situation (once you figure that out, and I know you’ve been working away at it). I’ll be very interested to hear your draft results once you have the gauge and are able to measure.

Thanks. As the unit was shipping, I got a response from Regency that they would only do a "suitable replacement". The replacement is a medium unit, my 3100 was a large. Just doesn't fit the firewood I have.

Yes, someone can get a brand new unit at a discount (and save money with oil prices so high).

Hopefully I posted this in the correct thread.

I'll post the draft results hopefully in a couple of days.

 

[stoveliker]

That's a nice hole...

I assume though that it is double wall (I don't see any signs of deposits near the hole).

And a hot pipe (at some point).
Which begs the question if you did overfire and your temperature gauge is not measuring in the right place?

 

[davidmsem]

That's a nice hole...

I assume though that it is double wall (I don't see any signs of deposits near the hole).

And a hot pipe (at some point).
Which begs the question if you did overfire and your temperature gauge is not measuring in the right place?

And the criminal installer put a 2 inch piece of tape to cover it. How long did he think that would last? Thank goodness I did not have a fire.

I did ask bholler about what a hole would do to the temp, prior to posting this pic, and his speculation at that time was that it would REDUCE draft. Still might be over drafting, but reduced draft with the hole.

I don't think this is double walled but I'm not sure.

The purple color is sign of being too hot I believe, correct me if I'm wrong. Did the added oxygen entering raise the temp?

Will seek advice on where and how to measure temps on my new unit when installed. I was measuring the face of the stove as I could access that.

So when I measure draft I'm my upcoming experiment, I'm assuming I should tape this hole to INCREASE the draft reading to what new unit might experience?

To help me understand, when people say use a damper, this first section of pipe coming out would be the section with the damper? And some sort of lever sticking out of the faceplate to open and close the damper?

Thank you.

 

[stoveliker]

Yes if it's single wall this will reduce draft.
Air will be sucked in here rather than through the stove.

But I'd also expect to see some deposits there, and I don't.

Regardless, I do think you've been too hot. And likely not once.

Yes close the hole when you measure draft. Find a steel bolt that fits in.

 

[brenndatomu]

Had to share this. Took the faceplate off the Regency 3100 to get some measurements regarding the new insert to replace it. Found this beauty.

Quiz ...See if anyone might know what is wrong in this picture?

There is a whole 180° on the other side. Evidently this must have been some type of damper device. Dude must have not had the correct parts on the truck so he jammed this in there after taking out damper or something else out and just used it. I've had two holes in this for quite some time.
View attachment 293394

Boy is that ever a hack install! That looks to be a 1/2" (ish) hole...way to big to be for a damper IMO...my guess is that they put a 1/2" rod through those holes to pull the elbow down into the stove (since there is obviously an offset there that the flex liner can't make up for) the baffle is removed from the stove and they stick their arm up through the top of the stove to pull/force the elbow/liner down into place.
You have several leaks there...the 2 holes, and the fact that the elbow is not even close to being seated into the stove collar! If you put a bright light above the stove, then take the baffle out of the stove and look up you will very likely see a pretty good gap 1/2 to 2/3 the way around the elbow...you should not be able to see any of the crimps like that!
That looks like single wall elbow too...not that uncommon, and is very likely stainless (required for an insert install IIRC) and even though I have no doubt that elbow has seen some very high temps over the years, that rainbow look it has is common on single wall SS even with normal flue temps, especially right out of the stove like that.

To help me understand, when people say use a damper, this first section of pipe coming out would be the section with the damper? And some sort of lever sticking out of the faceplate to open and close the damper?

Yeah it would have to be in something solid (not the liner) and yes, there would have to be some sort of extension fabricated to get from the faceplate (if you install one) back to the handle of the damper.
My personal opinion is that you aren't going to have a choice as to whether you install a damper or not with that chimney...if you had high draft (obviously did) with all those cold air leaks, its not gonna be any lower with a proper install!

 

[stoveliker]

I agree; I'm afraid the warping suggests the stove being too hot, and without this hole you'll have even higher draft.

Be prepared you'll be going into a whole new learning curve with the new stove.

 

[davidmsem]

My personal opinion is that you aren't going to have a choice as to whether you install a damper or not with that chimney...if you had high draft (obviously did) with all those cold air leaks, its not gonna be any lower with a proper install!

I'm starting to see the light on this one. Thank you.

@bholler , My apologies for resisting but I appreciate you pushing on this one. it's going to draft even more when I plug it. Think I have no option but to run it but the damper.

I think it's going to be an install with a damper or I'm giving up burning wood. I'll have measurements on Monday or Tuesday.

 

[EbS-P]

And the criminal installer put a 2 inch piece of tape to cover it. How long did he think that would last? Thank goodness I did not have a fire.

I did ask bholler about what a hole would do to the temp, prior to posting this pic, and his speculation at that time was that it would REDUCE draft. Still might be over drafting, but reduced draft with the hole.

I don't think this is double walled but I'm not sure.

The purple color is sign of being too hot I believe, correct me if I'm wrong. Did the added oxygen entering raise the temp?

Will seek advice on where and how to measure temps on my new unit when installed. I was measuring the face of the stove as I could access that.

So when I measure draft I'm my upcoming experiment, I'm assuming I should tape this hole to INCREASE the draft reading to what new unit might experience?

To help me understand, when people say use a damper, this first section of pipe coming out would be the section with the damper? And some sort of lever sticking out of the faceplate to open and close the damper?

Thank you.

My experience is that you need to be able to adjust the damper. In theory you shouldn’t. You could just use a draft gauge and set it and forget it. but the location so close to the stove probably creates turbulence and that leads to some smoke role out. When closed more than 45 degrees. My experience is that one I get my fire started and established I can make just two adjustments one after all the kindling lights and a second once the the whole load has lit/charred. I can then the stoves air control does a great job. Even on a reload if it’s still got a good bit of coals I don’t need to adjust it.

 

[brenndatomu]

Yes close the hole when you measure draft. Find a steel bolt that fits in.

This ^ ^ ^...you might have to experiment with size, type (metric or American) and thread pitch (coarse or fine thread) but you should be able to find something that "threads" in there nicely (just keep it short...no 3" long bolts) and just FYI even once you find the right one, you may have to force it a bit (a little, not a lot) the first time in as the bolt re-forms the metal to match the shape of the threads more closely

 

[brenndatomu]

My experience is that you need to be able to adjust the damper. In theory you shouldn’t. You could just use a draft gauge and set it and forget it. but the location so close to the stove probably creates turbulence and that leads to some smoke role out. When closed more than 45 degrees. My experience is that one I get my fire started and established I can make just two adjustments one after all the kindling lights and a second once the the whole load has lit/charred. I can then the stoves air control does a great job. Even on a reload if it’s still got a good bit of coals I don’t need to adjust it.

So you don't open the damper to reload? IME that usually leads to smoke rollout, if you are loading on hot coals.
And draft changes a lot between bitter cold winter days and those days in the spring n fall where you just need a little heat...there would surely need to be damper position changes made there too...

 

[EbS-P]

So you don't open the damper to reload? IME that usually leads to smoke rollout, if you are loading on hot coals.
And draft changes a lot between bitter cold winter days and those days in the spring n fall where you just need a little heat...there would surely need to be damper position changes made there too...

No there’s no smoke at the coaling stage for me. I will open the air and get the coals good and hot before a reload. If I want to add wood mid cycle or adjust position of the splits I will open the damper. I use quite a bit of kindling so it lights off fast on just opening the stove air.

 

[stoveliker]

Also, see if there is a hole on the opposite side (if they used these holes to handle the piece, I'd think there would be one on the other side for more even and easy handling).

 

[davidmsem]

...... You could just use a draft gauge and set it and forget it. but the location so close to the stove probably creates turbulence and that leads to some smoke role out. .......

Thank you, but I'm not sure I understand what you are saying here. Are you saying the hole for the draft gauge would allow smoke to come back out? Assuming that's what you mean a full-time dedicated draft gauge running with the stove.

 

[davidmsem]

Also, see if there is a hole on the opposite side (if they used these holes to handle the piece, I'd think there would be one on the other side for more even and easy handling).

Yes there are two holes, one on the other side.