Ram 1500 with an axe...
Minister of Fire
I say wait till you can spend more money and get a new big stihl..................
Recommend me a STIHL Saw
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Firewood Bandit
Minister of Fire
Well the OP had a price point of $400. The saw in the Stihl lineup to meet his needs is the 291 which is now going for $469. IMHO that is a bunch for a clamshell saw. I will agree that in fairness it will last 30 years and in that time you can enjoy the flippy caps and high price of parts from Stihl. (I really dislike flippy caps and won't buy one for that reason and haven't since they made this so called improvement)
My point is that when nearing the $400 mark you can get a real good non clamshell saw.
mstoelton
Feeling the Heat
Jon1270
Minister of Fire
Gas and oil caps that have a flip-up handle and release / tighten in only about a quarter turn. In theory they're faster and easier, but they are very persnickety about how they are oriented when you start to tighten them. It's easy to *think* they're on right, only to have them fall off and dump the tank contents when you turn the saw upright.
I think he's referring to the oil & gas caps with the flip-up tab so you can use them without tools. I kinda liked the thought, since the scrunch caps on my Echo drive me nuts. MY question is, What is a "clamshell" saw? I understand it has something to do with a plastic case, as opposed to a metal case, but I don't know specifically.
I just looked into Husky. They don't actually look that bad. The 555 looks interesting. The good news is that the same dealer right down the road that sells Stihl also sells Husky.
Keep in mind that cost and weight are considerations. While the 40 CC is slightly lacking, it's only SLIGHTLY. There have been SOME instances where more would have been good. At least one instance where I had to leave firewood on the table because the saw wouldn't do it. But this is not the majority of the time. I'm looking to hit a happy medium of more power, cost and weight.
I just looked into Husky. They don't actually look that bad. The 555 looks interesting. The good news is that the same dealer right down the road that sells Stihl also sells Husky.
Keep in mind that cost and weight are considerations. While the 40 CC is slightly lacking, it's only SLIGHTLY. There have been SOME instances where more would have been good. At least one instance where I had to leave firewood on the table because the saw wouldn't do it. But this is not the majority of the time. I'm looking to hit a happy medium of more power, cost and weight.
Jon1270
Minister of Fire
It refers to the way the engine is assembled. With a pro-style, split-case saw, the crankcase is split vertically with a crankshaft bearing fitted into each side. When the crankcase is assembled, it has a flat surface on top, to which the cylinder is bolted.
With a clamshell design, the crankcase is split horizontally on the crankshaft centerline, and has half-circular recesses in the top and bottom halves that sandwich around the crank bearings. The top of the crankcase is usually the bottom of the cylinder casting.
Removing and replacing the cylinder on a pro-style saw is a piece of cake, because it's just four easily accessible screws and a flat gasket. The same job on a clamshell saw is a lot more work because the screws are harder to get to, and you have to thoroughly clean off and replace the rubbery sealant between the crankcase halves and around the crank bearings. On the other hand, in the rare case that you have to replace crank bearings, that job is easier on a clamshell than split-case if you don't have a lot of specialized tools.
An oddball is the Husqvarna 350, which is a sort of hybrid engine design. It's a clamshell crankcase, and in fact the bottom of the crankcase is part of the saw's plastic chassis, but the top of the crankcase is a separate casting from the cylinder so it's possible to R&R the cylinder without messing with the crankshaft.
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Firewood Bandit
Minister of Fire
Excellent explanation Jon 1270 
Flippy caps are Stihls answer to something that was not a problem. I never run a saw without a scrench in my pocket so a tooless cap is a non starter anyway. Further I hand tighten the caps on my Huskies so they never get over tightened and don't ruin the gaskets. On occasion the oil cap gets tighter after running and I need the scrench to loosen a cap.
The new Husky caps have a folding tab that aids in more leverage to open/close the caps. It is threaded just like the old and you can put the old style in if you don't like that. That can't be said for the Stihl.
Flippy caps are Stihls answer to something that was not a problem. I never run a saw without a scrench in my pocket so a tooless cap is a non starter anyway. Further I hand tighten the caps on my Huskies so they never get over tightened and don't ruin the gaskets. On occasion the oil cap gets tighter after running and I need the scrench to loosen a cap.
The new Husky caps have a folding tab that aids in more leverage to open/close the caps. It is threaded just like the old and you can put the old style in if you don't like that. That can't be said for the Stihl.
smokedragon
Minister of Fire
I agree 100%
I can see how they would be nice on a homeowner only saw, but on ranch and pro saws it is not needed.
I also agree that depending on your usage and power requirements Stihl can be overpriced.
I know my MS 290 is a clamshell, but it is a darn good clamshell. If it lasts long enough to need a rebuild, I will just buy another one. I have an 028 that was a clamshell design. I bought it used 10 years ago. Gonna sell it this summer, and it still runs great. It is 33 years old, and still fires with the same number of pulls as my 290.
Firewood Bandit
Minister of Fire
Sorry I have to disagree. The 028 is a pro line saw with an alloy case. I have an 028 Super that after 20 years I had rebuilt even though it ran great. All rubber parts including anti vibe were replaced. The saw was ported at the time of rebuild. The saw is stronger than my 550XP although it now goes through a tank of fuel at least 50% faster and is incredibly loud. It's fun, but the new saws anti vibe are so much better. The parts were crazy expensive, roughly $200 on the rebuild.
robbydanilow
Member
Spent 3 hours today cutting with my ms261 and couldnt be happier. With the 20 inch bar buried in oak it didnt stall once. Ran 4 tanks of fuel flawlesly. Would go pro line if you can. I like the adjustable oiler but hate the flippy caps. Toolless caps have no place on a pro saw.
I would continue cutting with the Echo for another year or two all the while saving your pennies for a big boy saw
That may be what ends up happening. Although yesterday, I was about to throw the Echo in the trash. The thing has developed a tendency to throw chains. I had just adjusted the tension, and I put the bar in a little 1/2" branch, and off comes the chain. I don't know what's making it do that, but it pisses me off. I need a new chain catcher.
jatoxico
Minister of Fire
Inspect the sprocket drum/clutch housing. Those teeth can wear possibly mis-feed the bar or maybe the bar itself is worn. Is there a lot of slop in the chain side to side?
Ashful
Minister of Fire
If I had $400, and a hankering for a new saw, I'd buy an 036AV ($300+shipping = $350). With some spare chains, new file and scabbard, you'll come in just under $400.
SCOTT S.
Burning Hunk
I have had a ms 460 and a 260 for around 10 years and only one time on the 460 did I have the bar oil dump because of flippy caps, my fault not paying attention. I'm not
saying this is some great invention but it defiantly wouldn't scare me away from stihl, non issue for me.
saying this is some great invention but it defiantly wouldn't scare me away from stihl, non issue for me.
Jon1270
Minister of Fire
I tend to agree with Scott. The flippy caps were confusing at first and infuriating when I dumped a tank of gas on my leg, but after reading the relevant section of a Stihl manual I understand better how they work and now I like them. I still think they're less intuitive to operate than they should be, but I wouldn't choose a saw on this basis.
Don't get discouraged. Any saw is capable of mechanical foul ups and Echo makes a good, reliable product. Check the bar, drive sprocket and drive links on the chain for unsual wear.
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Well, how quickly should the bar and drive sprocket be wearing? The saw isn't 5 years old yet, and it's not like I use it hard, or for my job or anything....it's been doing this for at least 2 years already.
I've never worn out either bar nor sprocket. My old 290 is going on 10+ years with the originals.
FWIW - I doubt that either is worn out, per se, just worn oddly
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