RE: Which option to choose with splitter repair?

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I am still trying to figure out why they are charging so much for a 4 minute cylinder swap and a $30 jug of hydro juice. Unless they flat fee $125 per hour with a one hour min???? This is literally a 15 min job out the door.
 
I’m all for staying with the devil you know, unless it’s completely beyond the cost of replacement. That’s probably why I’m still with the same crazy woman after 20 years. [emoji14]
Give it a few years,mine left after 23. After about 2 weeks of feeling sorry about the whole mess i started to live again.Now i wish i could go back and give her the boot about 16 years ago when the crazyness started.I always hoped i could help her...
 
I am still trying to figure out why they are charging so much for a 4 minute cylinder swap and a $30 jug of hydro juice. Unless they flat fee $125 per hour with a one hour min???? This is literally a 15 min job out the door.

They've also been working on my engine which died.
 
Well . . . I'm actually leaning now towards getting a new splitter.

Here's my reasoning . . . and yes. . . it may not make sense economically.

Buying a replacement hydraulic ram would be cheaper . . . and probably easier . . . but I am questioning how long the old Briggs Quantum engine will last. I don't have an hour meter or even know how many cords it has processed in the last 10 years or so and while it is still (now that it has been repaired) still chugging along, I really don't want to buy a ram and then in another few months or few years (who really knows how long) have to go through the time, money and hassle of putting a new engine on it.

I also kinda wonder what caused the cylinder to egg out . . . was it inferior metal or an inferior design? I know some of the MTD trunnion mount splitters a while back had some issues with the cylinders. I never had the issues of the trunnions cracking, but I've often wondered if the trunnion design doesn't put undue stress on the cylinder . . . not to mention a good portion of the rear of the cylinder is left hanging with no support as this is a half beam design.

The splitter I am seriously considering is the Power Pro from Oregon which I am told is the old Speeco/Huskee design. I like the full beam design and set up of the hydraulic cylinder as it appears as though changing this out would be much cheaper should I ever have to do so as it has more of a "conventional" set up vs. the trunnion design. It has a Honda engine (although it is the GC, not GX version) . . . but with the horizontal shaft vs. vertical shaft it looks like I would have a lot more engine options to choose from when I need to re-power it. Finally, it's a small thing, but I have been told this splitter sits a bit higher than the MTD . . . which would perhaps mean I am hunched over a little less.

I cannot complain about the MTD . . . it has served me well for 10 years and I assume if I threw on a new ram it should last a few more years barring the engine dying . . . but I also kinda figure I got my money's worth and am willing to get something newer and perhaps a bit better.
 
Have you factored in selling the old one - if you get the new one?

Not sure what you'd get for it, would depend on who comes along & what they feel like spending. But the way used splitters are around here - you'd get over half of what a new one would cost.
 
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It is surprising the optimistic pricing folks asked for used beat up splitters. There is one sitting on the highway near me that has been for sale for over a year. it looks like light duty and very well used and they are asking $800. I picked up new TSC 25 which looks beefier for $200 more. By the way, there is big "H" weld reinforcement on the back side of the stop on mine which implies to me that its Huskee with TSC paint?

The one for sale is an older design where the beam is supported at the axle. Its a backbreaker as everything gets done hunched over. The TSC 25 is set up at normal height so I am standing straight when operating it. Sure it means lifting the wood higher from the ground but I normally split solo pulling the rounds right out of the truck. I also can make a much bigger pile of split wood before I have to stack. That means it makes sense to split a pile of wood and then turn the engine off while I stack.
 
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there is big "H" weld reinforcement on the back side of the stop on mine which implies to me that its Huskee with TSC paint?
I would be surprised if that’s the case. Huskee was just TSC’s made up brand name for the splitters they were buying from Speeco, at that time, as I understood it.
 
Have you factored in selling the old one - if you get the new one?

Not sure what you'd get for it, would depend on who comes along & what they feel like spending. But the way used splitters are around here - you'd get over half of what a new one would cost.

I've always had good luck in selling items at a fair and decent price vs. trying to get a top dollar for an item and then either holding on to it forever or having a bazillion tire kickers look at it before finally someone finally makes the buy.

I was thinking of selling it as is with an asking price of $350, allowing them to dicker me down to $300 or $275. The cost of the new ram will be $337. Add in some hydraulic oil and for around $650 someone will have a splitter. That may be overly optimistic, but then again I've been seeing rusty, home-built splitters sitting a foot off the ground with an asking price of $350-$450.
 
Some Assembly Required
Yeah, that was another advantage...my $699 Champion from RKO came assembled and running.
These need the wheels put on and the front part of the hitch bolted on IIRC...and fluids...hydraulic oil is another $30 for a 5 gallon bucket.
 
That’s cheap! What’s the verdict on that wimpy looking cylinder mount, though? I’ve never owned a machine that didn’t have a full beam, with the cylinder clevis-mounted at the far end.
That's the same setup my Champion 23T has...no issues with it so far...been 5-6 years now...probably split at least 25-30 cord. ..and some nasty/gnarly stuff too!
 
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That's the same setup my Champion 23T has...no issues with it so far...been 5-6 years now...probably split at least 25-30 cord. ..and some nasty/gnarly stuff too!

And similar to my Wallenstein made Surge Master. Don't recall ever hearing or reading of any issues with those.
 
Yeah, there was a time that the trunion mounts were getting tore off the side of the cylinder, but haven't heard of that issue for a long time now.

The welded "H" on the back of the foot plate was to address the foot plate snapping in half. That is also an issue I no longer hear about.
 
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I've always had good luck in selling items at a fair and decent price vs. trying to get a top dollar for an item and then either holding on to it forever or having a bazillion tire kickers look at it before finally someone finally makes the buy.

I was thinking of selling it as is with an asking price of $350, allowing them to dicker me down to $300 or $275. The cost of the new ram will be $337. Add in some hydraulic oil and for around $650 someone will have a splitter. That may be overly optimistic, but then again I've been seeing rusty, home-built splitters sitting a foot off the ground with an asking price of $350-$450.

Somebody out there might have a ram kicking around. Would be a super deal for them.
 
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Yeah, there was a time that the trunion mounts were getting tore off the side of the cylinder, but haven't heard of that issue for a long time now.

The welded "H" on the back of the foot plate was to address the foot plate snapping in half. That is also an issue I no longer hear about.

Yeah, that’s what I was thinking, there was a time when you wouldn’t want to touch anything without a full beam and clevis-mounted cylinder.

I wonder how these balance? Another advantage of the full beam and clevis-mounted cylinder is that extra half beam puts a lot of extra weight on the tongue, to the point where the splitter ain’t tipping with all but the heaviest rounds I can lift onto it.

I’d guess you could achieve the same effect by moving the pivot a little closer to the foot plate, but unless you also positioned the pivot farther below the beam, that could reduce horizontal beam height if you needed the thing to work in a vertical position as well.
 
The Wallenstein splitters use a front mount cylinder not a trunnion mount. When considering beam length shorter beams flex less making the system stronger when using the same size beam.
 
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The Wallenstein splitters use a front mount cylinder not a trunnion mount. When considering beam length shorter beams flex less making the system stronger when using the same size beam.

The shorter beam will flex less under the same moment, but moving the mount forward to half length also roughly doubles the moment (actually, according to tan(y/x), if you care). It also puts more stress on the welds. Likely not an issue either way, just pointing out the physics of it.
 
Yeah, that’s what I was thinking, there was a time when you wouldn’t want to touch anything without a full beam and clevis-mounted cylinder.

I wonder how these balance? Another advantage of the full beam and clevis-mounted cylinder is that extra half beam puts a lot of extra weight on the tongue, to the point where the splitter ain’t tipping with all but the heaviest rounds I can lift onto it.

I’d guess you could achieve the same effect by moving the pivot a little closer to the foot plate, but unless you also positioned the pivot farther below the beam, that could reduce horizontal beam height if you needed the thing to work in a vertical position as well.

You put the engine out front near the tongue. Out of harms way. Where it should be.
 
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You put the engine out front near the tongue. Out of harms way. Where it should be.
... but that's where they already are, even on the old full-beam Speeco's! See pic I posted of the old Huskee on the prior page.

I guess you could scoot it even farther forward, but that would at least somewhat increase the cost and complexity of mounting it, as most currently just use a gusset plate welded to the forward face of the axle tank.
 
... but that's where they already are, even on the old full-beam Speeco's! See pic I posted of the old Huskee on the prior page.

I guess you could scoot it even farther forward, but that would at least somewhat increase the cost and complexity of mounting it, as most currently just use a gusset plate welded to the forward face of the axle tank.

That's in front of the tank, but not out front. Still in harms way, also.

Like this: (if I can get this pic posted)

11220823-1.jpg
 
Got it. Nice concept! What’s the cost on that unit, tho?
 
Does that unit have some sort of adjustable return-stop?
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Optional "Stroke Limiter" @4m38s

 
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