Hello. I have a Garn boiler, which works very well. This is my fifth heating season and after dealing with a major leak from the previous owners non-maintenance, it has been problem free. I burn 10 cords a year to heat my home and shop. I consider myself moderately knowledgeable, but by no means an expert. My system is configured so that there is fairly large supply line coming off the top of the boiler tank and running as a loop back to a return line in the bottom of the boiler tank. There is a circulating pump on this loop. This is all within the boiler room itself. There is then a supply and return line off of this that runs through insulated pex to a heat exchanger in my house my house, with the rest of the radiator zones in the house. With the first loop in the boiler room, there is usually a two to 3° difference in the supply versus return temperature and the pump is set on high. If I slow it down, the temperature gradient widens. my question is, what would be the ideal speed? Again, I have no problems with the pump set on high. I don’t know the science around optimizing speed my question is how do you know if a pump is working? This is specifically in relation to , a circulating pump I have on a short loop between the bottom and top of the tank running through a filter. I have a pressure gauge after the pump and before the filter that is always add zero and doesn’t fluctuate with during the pump upper down or actually turn it off. I have replaced the gauge once and this is a fairly high-quality gauge. So I’m not even sure if the pump is running. It is warm of course because it is, running water through the boiler. I hope these aren’t stupid questions, but I just cannot figure the answers out. Thanks.
Questions about circulating pumps
- Thread starter mynx
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
For my oil and gas boilers that heat baseboards and radiators:
I don't know what circulator you have but on my oil boiler you can see my B&G 100 series spinning when it's on.
On my taco's in other houses you can't see them spinning but can hear a slight humming.
You can also hear them kick on and off when adjusting the thermostat.
Not sure the differences in these circulators vs your Garn boiler set up?
I don't know what circulator you have but on my oil boiler you can see my B&G 100 series spinning when it's on.
On my taco's in other houses you can't see them spinning but can hear a slight humming.
You can also hear them kick on and off when adjusting the thermostat.
Not sure the differences in these circulators vs your Garn boiler set up?
Last edited:
PassionForFire&Water
Minister of Fire
I had my filter set up on my Garn a little different as when mine was built they didn't put filters on them. I pulled the water out of the front of the Garn on the bottom at a T were the drain in the front is. My pump for the filter was right there then piped threw the filter and then returned to the back of the Garn to the top pipe back into the Garn. I had a low pressure gauge before and after the filter and normal had two to three PSI showing on the inlet gauge. I always ran the pump on low and you would have no problem grabbing the pipe and being able to tell the pump was flowing. I ran the pump 24/7 and only shut it off to change filter and would have to bleed it or it would air lock and not flow.
Similar threads
