quadrafire 1100 pellet stove does nothing after blowing fuse n replacing it

[bflat]

Have bypassed #3 same results, this model has no switch in lid I can find and am told it doesn't, no inline fuse on igniter, only fuse left is .5 amp on circuit board in control box, it is also good. I decided to start fire manually just hoping it might ride off once saddled up. No go, but the green led and the red led are on now that are on top of control box. Convection fans didn't come on once hot either, maybe it didn't get hot enough to run them, idk

Did the lights go on in succession at the proper times after you lit the fire?
Or did they go on at the same time as soon as you turned on the stove?

The manual that Tj listed says that the thermocouple wires have to be connected specifically in the junction box.
Yellow-positive to top center terminal, and Red-negative to lower center terminal.

Is it possible they got reversed?
I am not sure if that would cause a false voltage to be sent to the controller, preventing the igniter from going or not.
I would definitely verify again that all your connections are correct in the junction box after you were working in there.

As suggested earlier, did you check continuity for the igniter all the way to the controller and not just the harness?

Did you figure out where those wires by the auger come from.
Maybe someone replaced the auger motor using a new pigtail and those are just old ones, but you still need to check whats connected to them.
To test for voltage to the auger motor I would just back probe the feed wire at the motor with your voltmeter and the other lead connected to chassis ground.
Turn on the stove and see if you get voltage for a minute or two and then if it goes off, this will verify the controller is sending voltage for the initial feed for start up.

Verify if the motor is running or not to make sure it's not just stripped gears or a loose locking collar.

 

[Harvey Schneider]

Did the lights go on in succession at the proper times after you lit the fire?
Or did they go on at the same time as soon as you turned on the stove?

The manual that Tj listed says that the thermocouple wires have to be connected specifically in the junction box.
Yellow-positive to top center terminal, and Red-negative to lower center terminal.

Is it possible they got reversed?
I am not sure if that would cause a false voltage to be sent to the controller, preventing the igniter from going or not.
I would definitely verify again that all your connections are correct in the junction box after you were working in there.

As suggested earlier, did you check continuity for the igniter all the way to the controller and not just the harness?

Did you figure out where those wires by the auger come from.
Maybe someone replaced the auger motor using a new pigtail and those are just old ones, but you still need to check whats connected to them.
To test for voltage to the auger motor I would just back probe the feed wire at the motor with your voltmeter and the other lead connected to chassis ground.
Turn on the stove and see if you get voltage for a minute or two and then if it goes off, this will verify the controller is sending voltage for the initial feed for start up.

Verify if the motor is running or not to make sure it's not just stripped gears or a loose locking collar.

Yes, the thermocouple is polarized and attaching it backwards will not work. Putting it in backwards would cause a negative Voltage while the control board is looking to measure a positive Voltage.
One other thing to look for. Visual confirmation that the auger motor is not running backwards or dithering.

 

[pelletstove93]

Ok auger works when line voltage applied directly. So all fans are good, auger and thermocouple is all good, I know snap disc #1 and #3 have power to them.. #1 I'm still unsure about igniter, will apply direct voltage to it to see if it glows. An vac guy recommended this just to rule out they were bad, so all that's would be left is wiring harness ( or bad wires anywhere ) , control board, vac switch n snap discs...

Since my friend doesn't know how to run an ohm test I'll need to know to be sure as I have said testing electrical components isn't strong point but I can follow clear instructions. Like which setting? 200? And do you test ohms under power or unplugged like a continuity test ? This will check snap discs one of you guys said..

Also does power come straight to auger on start up or after so many seconds? I know it only runs for 30 to 98 secs when it does run per Kappel and manual.

Thanks

 

[pelletstove93]

Ok auger works when line voltage applied directly. So all fans are good, auger and thermocouple is all good, I know snap disc #1 and #3 have power to them.. #1 I'm still unsure about igniter, will apply direct voltage to it to see if it glows. An vac guy recommended this just to rule out they were bad, so all that's would be left is wiring harness ( or bad wires anywhere ) , control board, vac switch n snap discs...

Since my friend doesn't know how to run an ohm test I'll need to know to be sure as I have said testing electrical components isn't strong point but I can follow clear instructions. Like which setting? 200? And do you test ohms under power or unplugged like a continuity test ? This will check snap discs one of you guys said..

Also does power come straight to auger on start up or after so many seconds? I know it only runs for 30 to 98 secs when it does run per Kappel and manual.

Thanks

 

[pelletstove93]

Auger works under d

Did the lights go on in succession at the proper times after you lit the fire?
Or did they go on at the same time as soon as you turned on the stove?

The manual that Tj listed says that the thermocouple wires have to be connected specifically in the junction box.
Yellow-positive to top center terminal, and Red-negative to lower center terminal.

Is it possible they got reversed?
I am not sure if that would cause a false voltage to be sent to the controller, preventing the igniter from going or not.
I would definitely verify again that all your connections are correct in the junction box after you were working in there.

As suggested earlier, did you check continuity for the igniter all the way to the controller and not just the harness?

Did you figure out where those wires by the auger come from.
Maybe someone replaced the auger motor using a new pigtail and those are just old ones, but you still need to check whats connected to them.
To test for voltage to the auger motor I would just back probe the feed wire at the motor with your voltmeter and the other lead connected to chassis ground.
Turn on the stove and see if you get voltage for a minute or two and then if it goes off, this will verify the controller is sending voltage for the initial feed for start up.

Verify if the motor is running or not to make sure it's not just stripped gears or a loose locking collar.

auger works under direct line power from wall.

Lights came on in order, not at sametime ..

Wives are correct on thermocouple, I double checked it as well because I second guessed myself.

I did check continuity all the way from junction box..

Am gonna check auger power again in bit, have to take son to a young marine banquet. But will post results.

Thank you.

 

[pelletstove93]

Yes, the thermocouple is polarized and attaching it backwards will not work. Putting it in backwards would cause a negative Voltage while the control board is looking to measure a positive Voltage.
One other thing to look for. Visual confirmation that the auger motor is not running backwards or dithering.

Checked for motor running backwards after I saw a post on that it does nothing. Wires on thermocouple are correct.

 

[pelletstove93]

Don't know

also how could your stove work for 3 years without a thermocouple when it is an integral part of the running logic? You said that the stove 'ran fine' for three years....

Why the dealer said same thing. The wires was broken about an inch below the twist on end, I butted them tighter shoved the cover on and it has worked... Luck I guess. I found it that way soon I put it back together that way.. I've replaced it so it's not longer an issue as whole lot the green and red leds came on indicating signal from thermocouple..

Thanks

 

[pelletstove93]

Except the manual does not mention a cap on the auger motor in the explanation for removal. It only mentions/shows a cap for the combustion motor and ONE for BOTH convection blowers (curious). I figured there would be another one on the other side for the second blower but one cap must start them both.

That's right, no cap for auger only 2 caps, one for exhaust fan and one for both convection fans.

 

[CladMaster]

The vac switch ..... is the tube connected to it and to the port in the stove ?

Can you take a picture of the vac switch and post it here so that we can see the connectors. Need to find out what version of vac switch you have, there are two versions for this stove.

 

[gfreek]

And do you test ohms under power or unplugged like a continuity test

Test ohms Unplugged..like continuity test

 

[bflat]

Auger works under d
auger works under direct line power from wall.

Lights came on in order, not at sametime ..

Wives are correct on thermocouple, I double checked it as well because I second guessed myself.

I did check continuity all the way from junction box..

Am gonna check auger power again in bit, have to take son to a young marine banquet. But will post results.

Thank you.

Did you use your voltmeter and probe the feed wire right at the auger motor with the ground lead connected to the chassis right after turning on the stove to see if you had voltage?

When you say you tested the motor direct to house current, do you mean that both motor wires were disconnected from the stove and plugged into a cord separately ?

I'm not sure what I missed on previous posts, but you did say you had power at the Vac switch.

Do you have power beyond that point when the convection blower is running, and all the way to the auger during the fill cycle?
If so, disconnect the motor and also the stove from power and trace the neutral from the motor back thru the harness to find everywhere it goes and check for continuity between those ends.

Do you have an accurate wiring schematic for this stove.

Maybe someone else here would know, is the neutral for the auger motor connected to the control box only on this stove or does it connect to the main neutral return?

Is it possible to back probe the connectors for the auger and igniter feeds right at the control box with your voltmeter and check for voltage during start up?
It makes sense to me to test at the source and bypass everything else if you can.

With the stove unplugged, I would again check the control box plug for tight connections, on each and every wire just to be sure.
Also verify each wire has continuity thru to the connector with your meter while wiggling the wires . I have seen where the wire has fried away from the contact, but still held on around the insulation.

 

[Harvey Schneider]

Did you use your voltmeter and probe the feed wire right at the auger motor with the ground lead connected to the chassis right after turning on the stove to see if you had voltage?

When you say you tested the motor direct to house current, do you mean that both motor wires were disconnected from the stove and plugged into a cord separately ?

I'm not sure what I missed on previous posts, but you did say you had power at the Vac switch.

Do you have power beyond that point when the convection blower is running, and all the way to the auger during the fill cycle?
If so, disconnect the motor and also the stove from power and trace the neutral from the motor back thru the harness to find everywhere it goes and check for continuity between those ends.

Do you have an accurate wiring schematic for this stove.

Maybe someone else here would know, is the neutral for the auger motor connected to the control box only on this stove or does it connect to the main neutral return?

Is it possible to back probe the connectors for the auger and igniter feeds right at the control box with your voltmeter and check for voltage during start up?
It makes sense to me to test at the source and bypass everything else if you can.

With the stove unplugged, I would again check the control box plug for tight connections, on each and every wire just to be sure.
Also verify each wire has continuity thru to the connector with your meter while wiggling the wires . I have seen where the wire has fried away from the contact, but still held on around the insulation.

You are assuming a level of competence that may be disappointed.

 

[bflat]

Ok, got power now, replaced fuse holder it was bad. But igniter, auger isn't working. Going to buy a new thermostat in bit this one was troubling anyway, but have bypass it for now. Not blowing fuses now, so closer. But where do I got from here

When you say you bypassed the thermostat, does the connection your making stay in contact the whole time when starting the stove for sure?
If you make a quick on/off connection with the thermostat at start up, only the exhaust blower will run for 10-15 min and then shut off.

I know this sounds simple but I'm going to ask anyway.
Are you unplugging the stove between tests, and then plugging it in each time and testing right away to see if the auger is feeding?

Do you have the thermostat terminals connected in any way when you are plugging it in?

I don't know for sure on your stove, but my quad, when first plugging it in goes thru a 10 to 15 min purge cycle by running (Only) the exhaust blower, no auger or igniter and then stops.
It is then ready to turn on with the thermostat.

I also don't know what the stove would do if I already had the thermostat calling for heat while plugging it in, as I have never done it.

With the thermostat off, and when you first plug it in, does the exhaust blower run for awhile and then shut off.

 

[Bkins]

I'm going to make a suggestion bflat. The poster is easily confused and is being helped by two very good stove people, Kap, and Tj. It would be helpful not to have someone new jump in on page 9 and after more then 200 posts to try to help. It doesn't sound as though you have read the thread from the beginning. It may answer some of your questions.

Lots of people are watching this and have stayed out of the conversation just as to not confuse 93 any more.

I certainly didn't mean to slight Harvey. He hasn't jumped in as often but when he has what he has said was important and to the point on this stove.

There are a lot of very, very good forum members here willing to help anyone willing to help themselves. If their suggestions are followed, step by step, you will get the stove back up and running. Way to go people.

 

[rafmt]

I must give some praise to Kap and TJ. Your help so far on this thread has been very generous. Frustrating at times....but a learning experience to myself and many other that are watching this. I am hopeful this stove can get fixed. The journey has been interesting to watch.

 

[gfreek]

many other that are watching this. I am hopeful this stove can get fixed. The journey has been interesting to watch.

I agree...Quiet today though

 

[bflat]

I'm going to make a suggestion bflat. The poster is easily confused and is being helped by two very good stove people, Kap, and Tj. It would be helpful not to have someone new jump in on page 9 and after more then 200 posts to try to help. It doesn't sound as though you have read the thread from the beginning. It may answer some of your questions.

Lots of people are watching this and have stayed out of the conversation just as to not confuse 93 any more.

Point taken, I hope I didn't offend anyone.
I did read all the posts though, and I just thought I could offer some help.
Your right, 93 doesn't need to be confused further than he already is.

 

[kappel15]

Harvey Schneider has contributed a great deal to help this problem also. kap

 

[pelletstove93]

The vac switch ..... is the tube connected to it and to the port in the stove ?

Can you take a picture of the vac switch and post it here so that we can see the connectors. Need to find out what version of vac switch you have, there are two versions for this stove.

I have the two wire version that is not adjustable. Yes its connected at both ends.

 

[pelletstove93]

I want to thank everyone for the advice. I didn't expect such a tremendous amount of information. When stumped I usually watch a YouTube video or read a post on the topic I'm having issues with and fix my problem. Can't find a YouTube videos or post specific to my issues so I turned to this site. I am glad I did! I've leaned a lot not just about this stove but about wiring in general, it may not seem like it to some!! I will post later today watch step I'm proceeding with. I'm think I have some connectors that are not making good connections since I can get 2 readings in some by probing down the middle making direct contact with wire with good voltage as opposed to probing the connector it's self and getting anywhere from 0 to 6 volts. Have an hvac friend that I called who in turn gave me his electrical guy who happens to be a guy I went to school with and grew up just a few blocks from one another. I hope he can come by and verify this final things so I can get what I need. The terminal on the vac switch ( red wire terminal ) is black by the way. No others are.If vac switch is ok as well as snap discs and harness seems fine I will get the control box. And cross my fingers.

 

[kappel15]

Keep us posted. Good luck. kap

 

[pelletstove93]

Thought I had found a broken wire in wiring harness but after studying the wiring diagram it shows the wires in question a blue wire, connects with one of the igniter wires in the female connector. So it shows continuity on the igniter wire and not in the blue wire I was checking. So I believe it's down to the control box. I tested it and have stand by voltage but it doesn't increase when it should. Looks like a control box is next.Thanks

 

[pelletstove93]

Ordering a control box, will update after receiving it. Thanks all

 

[pelletstove93]

Ok guys it's fixed! It was a simple fix after all just had to find it. Reset switch has 3 prongs on it but only has 2 wires connected to it. One blade was a dummy ( 2 including me ). I had one wire wrong. I had asked about that earlier on and Harvey had told me how to test it but in all the commotion I didn't follow thru with his advice. And bit did it cost me!! A new control box I didn't not need. Why they have a 3rd dummy blade I don't know but I'll never forget that it does and now all if you know just in case. Thank you all so much and hope you all had a great Christmas and have a great new year!

For sale: 1 new control box cheap, lol. Seriously

 

[kappel15]

Glad you are up and running after this long ordeal. This is why it can be so frustrating trying to fix a stove over the internet. You don't know what has been fixed or not, right or wrong, without being there. At least you know your stove a lot better then you did, and you can stay warm. I hope you get the control box sold if you don't want to keep it for a spare. kap