The thing that makes this significant is that the vac switch would be closed when the stove is off. I am not sure how the op checked the switch, but it was probably with power off. He did report zero ohms for one of the switches, I can't recall which. As soon as the combustion blower is running the vac switch would open inhibiting the auger motor.
He checked a snap disc that had 0. The vac switch is suppose to be open with stove off, and closed when vacuum sucks switch closed. Reason to bypass switch is to try and get electricity all the way thru path to auger.
I asked this guy how his broken thermocouple effected his pellet stove. Mine was broken but has been for 3 years but it still ran fine. If I could twist wires together or solder it then I wanted to rather than pay ,,$112.00 for one. I went ahead and invested in a new one to be certain. Saw your name so I gave short explanation on that post so as not to confuse someone who's has Been trying to help me. Also when I checked ohms I set it on the 200 setting, is that where u want it?
You said that you were able to manually start the stove. Does that mean that your stove is working? If not, exactly what problem are you still experiencing?
Hong is wired properly, only question about wiring is the reset button has 3 prongs on it but only 2 wires, so up questioned if I had the proper 2 or if it mattered as it's just a switch but it doesn't matter. I've wired entire homes from start to finish so electric work isn't the problem, it's understanding the circuit path for me, most is clear but if I knew what the board does exactly and doesn't do I wouldn't be hunting so much. Been repairing PlayStation consoles for 15 years as well as old vcr's washers dryers, so I'm capable but this is my 1st attempt at a pellet stove and have been jumping all over it due to all the advice. Its all good advice I just need to stay on one path till it's done and Move to next step. My electrical friend stopped by last night and didn't know how to check ohms so he's no help said he doesn't understand any of this. Just because a wire fell off or I swapped 1 wire doesn't mean I'm not capable, who hasn't made mistakes? Thanks for advice and Manuals. Again what I'm trying to do here is make sure I have fixed all issues before buying a control box ( if I need one ) so that I don't plug it in and fry it as well. At this point I have everything working but the igniter and auger. I'm working on auger now once it's deemed good or bad and Ill replace it if so at some point, I'll move to igniter, then, if nothing and all is checked out to be good, a control box. Dealer has pressed me to buy a control box from get go. But if installed without repairing the cause of failure I would be out $360.00 no other service men in area, only ones that are here ant get here till beginning of 3rd week of January, this is wherever I'm at. I'm disabled, blind in left eye and poor vision in right with very limited money and didn't want to spend my kids Christmas money on parts carelessly. Thanks again.
I started it with some of that gel, it only ran for the ten minutes it usually does or is supposed to without it feeding I guess. While little the green led came on then the red led after it went out the red went out and eventually the green did. Convection fans didn't come on because it only ran 10 minutes and needs to run like 15 minutes I think is what Kappel 15 said. I have exhaust fan, but not feeding pellets and no igniter. Thanks
You forgot bad/improperly wired reset button and bad snap disk #2. These are in the circuit as well but not directly. They input into the control board and tell the auger motor drive circuit to start over. If not properly wired or if faulty, the auger will never be told to start.
A bad run cap on the auger motor would keep it from feeding pellets even if he measures Voltage there.
Except the manual does not mention a cap on the auger motor in the explanation for removal. It only mentions/shows a cap for the combustion motor and ONE for BOTH convection blowers (curious). I figured there would be another one on the other side for the second blower but one cap must start them both.
Those are run capacitors not start capacitors. They shift the ac phase to the second winding and are continuously connected. That creates a rotating magnetic field.
Yea, you're right, of course. Start caps would need a set of contacts to open up after it started - right?
