You don't want thermo wires connected to anything as you can't get a good reading. Just need to see if power is going past light. Light only comes on when tstat calls for heat. Need to know if it is getting power to turn stove on. Don't want you buying a control box if you don't need one, but am betting you do. We need to follow power route.Make sure outlet is working, check for power at the black wire from the power cord. If there, check for power at the grey wire on the 7 amp fuse holder. If power is there check for power at he grey wires on snap disc #3. If power is there, time to replace control box.
quadrafire 1100 pellet stove does nothing after blowing fuse n replacing it
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Bulb is blown, but can't find a replacement locally, do I need it to continue? Can I swap it for a new bulb and socket of less than 28 volts?
Ok, I have power at black wire and on fuse holder on both wires, will check snap disc 3 when I'm home in just a bit. Thanks,
Ok I have gotten home and not having continuity on the thermocouple wires bothered me something I did a close visual inspection and felt around and found the wire broken just below the cover, was still touching but I felt a ridge and moved it and there it was. So I know I gotta replace it, thinking this was my short all along after realignment of fire pot. You did say this would stop communication, correct? Bulb is blown will pick one up when I pick up new thermocouple wire.
No sir, got excited when I found this hoping it will be only problem. I bought a new bulb $8.00 but not thermocouple wire because it's returnable and technology at store said I can solder connection since it's the actual wire broken not the end inside the cover, but one tech says it has nothing to do with the stove powering up that it should still run but not call for pellets when needed etc. Another tech disagreed some what saying on the 11000 it may 've the problem. So I'm headed home to try soldering wire and replace bulb and will test snap disc 3. Thank you will post again shortly.
Ok, call light is on, have power at snap disc, also appears to have some power at aubergine motor, I say something because I had forgotten about 2 wires that I had found 3 years ago a white and a black, pulled outta the white connectors on top of motor twisted together causing the motor to I think run constantly. I unhooked them and put them into the connectors and motor has run fine since, till now it I dint running. I did a dumb thing and left my igniter at friends house , had it there to test. I don't need it I remember reading that I can bypass it but not sure how do I twist wires together or desperate them. Exhaust fan is on call light is on.
Also I'm not very good with a tester electrical isn't my strong point to say the least, I have power touching snap disc one way but not other. Is that normal how do I check that current is flowing through it properly.
Put wire nuts in each igniter wires seperately, also used a jumper at snap disc, have exhaust fan and call light no combustion fan or anger? Found a control box but afraid I don't need it or worst I install it and there's another problem and I fry the new one. Since call light is in does that mean control box is good?
Also the ceramic wire nuts were bad, the dealer doesn't have any plus they are $11.00 each. Can't I just solder wires to reinstall igniter? It's good check ohms on it have 38, have continuity to junction box. Check the insulation the entire length of wire since the dealers man said he has seen that wire short out where it goes through the fire box to the outside. .
After sorting thru this thing I'm hoping there's nothing left to short out except if I bump the firepot again , that seems to be a bad design as there is barely any clearance between igniter and walk of stove. Or it's not set up right? Maybe don't know. The igniter is on the right side of stove facing stove, does that sound right? Will look circa picture online , thanks and will do final checks in a.m. I guess, after I hear back from you guys. The dealer has tried to sell me a control box from get go but offered no other advice on cause of problem to start with or a service man since they are backed up for 3 weeks. Wish I knew more as whole at store yesterday 4 separate people came in doing self repairs due to the wait and charges of service, $125.00 first hour $65.00 every hour after plus parts. Not sure but sounds reasonable if you can afford it. Need to get into this work during winter , make a lil cash and help people.
Call light on does not mean control box is good. Check for power at combustion fan, when stove is calling for heat. If it isn't running creating a vacuum in firebox, auger won't run. If there is no power to fan, time for a new box. You can check the slots where control box plugs into to make sure there is no damage. ALWAYS make sure you unplug stove before removing or installing a control box, or you will toast it. kap
Harvey Schneider
Minister of Fire
Solder can't take the high temperature that the igniter leads can see. Check with a local hardware store or electrical supply for ceramic wire nuts.
The outside of the igniter is not at Voltage (or at least it should not be). If you cut through the insulation on the wires that would explain the short circuit. If you simply grounded the outside if the igniter and caused a short, the igniter was defective.
Fuses sometimes explode when they are delivering power to a dead short.
Ok on to combustion fan, yes I agree if solder won't work here it's a no brained for ceramic nuts even if I had to.pay $11.00, each for them, one fell off 3 years ago when I 1st moved in here and I replaced it with a heavy duty wire but, it's still good no signs of damage. I never drop hit ash down below those wire always concerned me. So I can temporarily use the heavy duty ones till I order some online. Yes Harvey had some bare igniter wires that issue is repaired as well, igniter shows 38 ohms , is that in range? Kappel do I need to check.power to vacuum switch at this stage or just move to combustion fan? As I mentioned earlier I used a jumper on #3 snap disc no change but I do have power to it.I'll pull vacuum tube make sure it's clear check.nipple on switch also while I'm at it. Will post results in few mins
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this is the only area that shoes any damage at all. I opened the box checked the .5 amp fuse it is good, the card on inside us perfect to the sight and doesn't smell burnt, I'm told they always do?? Can upload one of inside if needed just didn't take pictures of it while it was open.Similar threads
