Quadra Fire 3100i doesn't heat the whole house

[VirginiaIron]

It is a Pre ACC. It has a blower on it that you control manually.
I thought the quadra was suppose to give off good heat.

I was impressed with the free standing unit and as far as efficiency or lack of creosote they both were fantastic.
I hear some on here rave about their inserts. The 3100i ACT was the only insert I ever used and we weren't satisfied. The guy who uses our old insert now loves it. I guess our houses have very different needs.
I see the heat output of inserts as obstructed by the exterior trim and not as free flowing as a free standing unit.
With quality wood and a good draft that stove will crank some heat but you need to keep feeding it since the Fire box is under 2cubic feet. That is why we ended up using it on the weekends because during the week our schedules would not permit keeping it stoked and after it cooled, even though there were coals inside, it took too long to heat the space again.
Get some dry wood and give it a whirl.

 

[VirginiaIron]

You push the center one in for fully open correct?

**Yes, I'm sorry push in. I got confused with my present stove.**
If you have the ACT, follow those directions for start up an running.

 

[Dix]

I have the air open on startup. I was wondering after you close the primary control, where should you keep the secondary which controls the heat. I don't want to burn the logs too quickly bit want to maintain enough heat. My magnetic thermometer is reading a little over 300. How high of a temp do you get on your stove?

The PE Cruises at 600 F, the 13 also.

 

[begreen]

I will try that tomorrow. Burning ok now. I think like someone said because there are different wood I think some may be dry and others not dry enoughView attachment 231835View attachment 231837This is how the fire was after I finally got it started and the temperature

I think this stove has a convection deck lid. (VirginiaIron please verify) If so, the temperature in that location is not going to be lower than the actual stove top temp. Try moving the thermometer to the front face of the stove above either door corner and see what it reads.

 

[VirginiaIron]

I think this stove has a convection deck lid. (VirginiaIron please verify) If so, the temperature in that location is not going to be lower than the actual stove top temp. Try moving the thermometer to the front face of the stove above either door corner and see what it reads.

Edit: Yes. The heavy steel stove sits inside a casing with just the top of the exposed portion sticking out and exposed. The fans blew cooler air into the plenum and the hot air came out the top at the opening in the picture. When I tried a magnetic thermometer the left and right sides of the top plate were definitely cooler than the center of the unit.

 

[deborita3]

I was impressed with the free standing unit and as far as efficiency or lack of creosote they both were fantastic.
I hear some on here rave about their inserts. The 3100i ACT was the only insert I ever used and we weren't satisfied. The guy who uses our old insert now loves it. I guess our houses have very different needs.
I see the heat output of inserts as obstructed by the exterior trim and not as free flowing as a free standing unit.
With quality wood and a good draft that stove will crank some heat but you need to keep feeding it since the Fire box is under 2cubic feet. That is why we ended up using it on the weekends because during the week our schedules would not permit keeping it stoked and after it cooled, even though there were coals inside, it took too long to heat the space again.
Get some dry wood and give it a whirl.

I agree with you. The insert was here when we moved in. If I had to choose I would probably get one like yours. Without the blower on hardly any heat comes out. My thermostat down the hall is only registering 62 and the bedrooms are a little chilly. Not what I was hoping for especially when it gets really cold out.

 

[deborita3]

I think this stove has a convection deck lid. (VirginiaIron please verify) If so, the temperature in that location is not going to be lower than the actual stove top temp. Try moving the thermometer to the front face of the stove above either door corner and see what it reads.

Temperature began to drop when I placed above the door corner

 

[deborita3]

The PE Cruises at 600 F, the 13 also.

My magnetic thermometer that the chimney sweep guy gave me says 600 is too high.

 

[Dix]

My magnetic thermometer that the chimney sweep guy gave me says 600 is too high.

It's an insert, reading on the face. You have to figure 100 - 200 F hotter in the box.

 

[VirginiaIron]

My magnetic thermometer that the chimney sweep guy gave me says 600 is too high.

I'm not sure what to tell you about that aside from the manual never stating, that I remember/observed any temperature recommendations. I think many other stove operators on here run close to those temps.
My present stove thermometer says 300 is the minimum burn temp to prevent creosote. These last days I have run mine at the minimum temp and I can definitely see creosote forming on my cap- after the recent cleaning.
We got our thermometer from TSC. I also understand there are differences between pipe and stove thermometers. Your thermometer looks very small and might be less likely to show your temperatures as they progress.
** Either way, read and understand your operators manual for your correct model and know positively how to operate it AND shut it down**.

I keep a Rutland fire suppression stick nearby- just in case.

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[VirginiaIron]

Page 16 from my 3100i ACT manual

"... The story of the Three Burning Stages . . .
It helps to know a little about the actual burn process, which entails three discernible burning stages. The first stage
is called the kindling stage. During this stage the fuel reaches the boiling temperature of water, 212°F, evaporating the
moisture found to some degree in all wood.
Because the process takes heat from the insert during this initial drying stage, each new load of wood reduces the chances for a good, clean burn. For this reason it is always best to burn dry, seasoned firewood, and operate the controls properly.
The control on the right side of your insert is called the Start-Up Air Control and is used primarily during this first kindling stage of burning.
During the secondary stage, the wood gives off flammable gases which burn above the fuel with bright flames. These flames above the fuel must be maintained until the third stage to insure proper burning. During this stage you may adjust your insert for a low burn rate. To achieve a low burn rate it is necessary to close down the air while still maintaining some flames. If the flames tend to go out, the setting is too low. The Primary Control, located in the center of the insert beneath
the ashcatcher, will assist you in adjusting the insert for a low burn rate.
The third stage of burning is the charcoal stage. This happens when the flammable gases have been burned and the charcoal remains. The coals burning with hot blue flames is a naturally clean portion of the burn. It is very important to reload your insert while enough lively hot coals remain in order to provide the amount of heat needed to dry and rekindle the next load of wood. Open up both controls for a short while before reloading to liven up the coal bed. You should also
break up any large chunks and distribute the coals so the new wood is laid on hot coals. Leave both controls open until the new wood load is burning well enough to maintain the secondary stage of burning and then set controls to your desired heat output setting..."
Keep in mind you will only get about 10k btus (maybe only 80% of that) of heat at the low setting, so this setting is really good after you have brought the space to desired temp. or if you are supplementing your regular house heat.

 

[VirginiaIron]

I think this stove has a convection deck lid. (VirginiaIron please verify) If so, the temperature in that location is not going to be lower than the actual stove top temp. Try moving the thermometer to the front face of the stove above either door corner and see what it reads.

Yes.

 

[deborita3]

Page 16 from my 3100i ACT manual

"... The story of the Three Burning Stages . . .
It helps to know a little about the actual burn process, which entails three discernible burning stages. The first stage
is called the kindling stage. During this stage the fuel reaches the boiling temperature of water, 212°F, evaporating the
moisture found to some degree in all wood.
Because the process takes heat from the insert during this initial drying stage, each new load of wood reduces the chances for a good, clean burn. For this reason it is always best to burn dry, seasoned firewood, and operate the controls properly.
The control on the right side of your insert is called the Start-Up Air Control and is used primarily during this first kindling stage of burning.
During the secondary stage, the wood gives off flammable gases which burn above the fuel with bright flames. These flames above the fuel must be maintained until the third stage to insure proper burning. During this stage you may adjust your insert for a low burn rate. To achieve a low burn rate it is necessary to close down the air while still maintaining some flames. If the flames tend to go out, the setting is too low. The Primary Control, located in the center of the insert beneath
the ashcatcher, will assist you in adjusting the insert for a low burn rate.
The third stage of burning is the charcoal stage. This happens when the flammable gases have been burned and the charcoal remains. The coals burning with hot blue flames is a naturally clean portion of the burn. It is very important to reload your insert while enough lively hot coals remain in order to provide the amount of heat needed to dry and rekindle the next load of wood. Open up both controls for a short while before reloading to liven up the coal bed. You should also
break up any large chunks and distribute the coals so the new wood is laid on hot coals. Leave both controls open until the new wood load is burning well enough to maintain the secondary stage of burning and then set controls to your desired heat output setting..."
Keep in mind you will only get about 10k btus (maybe only 80% of that) of heat at the low setting, so this setting is really good after you have brought the space to desired temp. or if you are supplementing your regular house heat.

Thank you! Very helpful. I have read the manual to my stove and watched some videos as well. Starting to get the hang of using the controls. Have maintained a fire all day today. I have been setting some wood in front of the stove to help it dry and it seems to have helped.Current temp.

 

[Rickb]

My magnetic thermometer that the chimney sweep guy gave me says 600 is too high.

Do you have any new construction near you? I take the kids and we get 2x4, 2x6, 2x8 construction scraps to use as kindling. They just trow them away. And as posted earlier you can get some compressed blocks. I bought a pallet of them and use them when its to cold/snowy to get to my stacks.

 

[deborita3]

Thank you! Very helpful. I have read the manual to my stove and watched some videos as well. Starting to get the hang of using the controls. Have maintained a fire all day today. I have been setting some wood in front of the stove to help it dry and it seems to have helped.View attachment 231881Current temp.

I was wondering how long to keep the blower on. The chimney guy told me not to put it higher then medium. When I turn it off not much heat comes out but really don't want to be running it too long and use alot of electricity.

 

[deborita3]

Do you have any new construction near you? I take the kids and we get 2x4, 2x6, 2x8 construction scraps to use as kindling. They just trow them away. And as posted earlier you can get some compressed blocks. I bought a pallet of them and use them when its to cold/snowy to get to my stacks.

The scraps don't have to be seasoned? I would like to try the compressed bricks. How much is a pallet and how long does the pallet last?

 

[Rickb]

The construction scraps are pine and usually kiln dried so they are very dry. I think I paid 200 for a full pallet but I have been using that pallet for 3 years now. I mix it with my other wood. If your wood is marginal you might be able to mix to get through the year.

I usually buy wood in the spring for the fall 18 or so months in the future so I know its been drying for a while. That seems to keep me in the 16% - 19% range that my stove really works well with.

 

[Rickb]

You can also go to home depot and lowes and buy scrap wood pretty cheap or free sometimes. They have cut offs they have from customer cuts and broken/defective wood. Just make sure its clean and has no paint or stains on it and is real wood not plywood/mdf.


shoulda seen me driving down the road with my ford focus loaded up with crap wood from lowes once time. my wife was laughing so hard she fell over when I pulled in the driveway.

 

[deborita3]

The construction scraps are pine and usually kiln dried so they are very dry. I think I paid 200 for a full pallet but I have been using that pallet for 3 years now. I mix it with my other wood. If your wood is marginal you might be able to mix to get through the year.

I usually buy wood in the spring for the fall 18 or so months in the future so I know its been drying for a while. That seems to keep me in the 16% - 19% range that my stove really works well with.

I know now for next year to buy the wood ahead of time. I thought the wood I bought was ready to go. Is wood from pallets good to use for kindling? I always see posts for free pallets?

 

[Rickb]

I know now for next year to buy the wood ahead of time. I thought the wood I bought was ready to go. Is wood from pallets good to use for kindling? I always see posts for free pallets?

Depends on the pallets. As long as it is not painted or stained should be fine.

 

[begreen]

My magnetic thermometer that the chimney sweep guy gave me says 600 is too high.

That is a stove pipe thermometer, not a stove top thermometer. The ranges are different. Just go by the temperature. Try it on the stove face over the door.

 

[VirginiaIron]

I was wondering how long to keep the blower on. The chimney guy told me not to put it higher then medium. When I turn it off not much heat comes out but really don't want to be running it too long and use alot of electricity.

I do not think it burns a lot of electricity. I felt as long as the air was hot or warm it was beneficial.
If your wood is stacked, probably the most beneficial investment might be black plastic over the top third of the stack to help it heat and dry. There are some people here that use homemade kilns to dry their wood. Anyway, next years wood is best covered now.
Maybe a neighbor is willing to trade some dry wood for your undried wood or just help you out.

 

[VirginiaIron]

I had a small pile of uncovered wood that has been split almost two years, it felt dry but it did not burn well. Some say it is not necessary, I say cover your wood. When we lived in CO. At 8900 feet, we didn't need to cover the wood since it was a different environment and things dried out quickly. Here in Virginia, even the leaves seem to have a higher moisture content.

 

[deborita3]

I do not think it burns a lot of electricity. I felt as long as the air was hot or warm it was beneficial.
If your wood is stacked, probably the most beneficial investment might be black plastic over the top third of the stack to help it heat and dry. There are some people here that use homemade kilns to dry their wood. Anyway, next years wood is best covered now.
Maybe a neighbor is willing to trade some dry wood for your undried wood or just help you out.[/QUOTE

My husband has it covered now. Are you suppose to leave some of the wood exposed so it gets some air?

 

[stovelark]

Holy Toledo- The 3100I ACT had two air controls, the startup on the right lower, the main control in the center. Air controls on quads are like accelerators, pushing them in gives more gas. The startup is left open (pushed in) until the stove gets going, then its pulled out (closed) and your burn rate is adjusted with the center control. Adjust it for your comfort and burn temp. I don't like the big rutland thermometers, I find them unreliable. That quad is an easy to use, extremely reliable burner, it will heat the heck out of 1200 sqft with good dry wood. If you're having trouble, its prob the wood. I do think the 3100I had a top plate to read the temp?? The blower is only manually controlled with that stove, no snapdisc to turn it on and off. A nice, reliable heater- if used with seasoned wood.