Oldman47
Minister of Fire
When a top opening exists in a warm space you basically have turned the whole yurt into a chimney. That reduces the driving force for your chimney itself so it doesn't draft as well.
You don't want to run it at 50%. Way too much primary and secondary air. Even at 2 notches above 1/4 it is considered a high burn rate. You will have more success slightly under 1/4.
Close the bypass and slowly bring it down in stages to about 1 notch under 1/4. The box will go black and you should notice more heat coming out the front and top. Later in the burn you may get some secondary activity. Adjust it more or less as you desire.
I do know that above 1/4 you start eating wood much quicker.
I can't remember if you have had a cat stove before or not. You might resist the urge to turn it back up when the fire goes out. This time of year my IS burns primarily with a black box. I try to adjust so there is just the smallest flame possible but it will go completely dark, the temp will settle somewhat, and then an hour later the secondaries are back and the stove top temps rise. This is normal IS "low burn" behavior.Every time I set it to 1/4, it seemed like the fire went out and the front did not significantly rise in heat, in fact, it eventually went down. Well, two nights of tinkering is not a lot, but that was my experience so far.
I can't remember if you have had a cat stove before or not. You might resist the urge to turn it back up when the fire goes out. This time of year my IS burns primarily with a black box. I try to adjust so there is just the smallest flame possible but it will go completely dark, the temp will settle somewhat, and then an hour later the secondaries are back and the stove top temps rise. This is normal IS "low burn" behavior.
Yes, that makes sense. The same thing can happen in a house when you open an upstairs window. The exhausting warm air creates negative pressure down below.
I can't remember if you have had a cat stove before or not. You might resist the urge to turn it back up when the fire goes out. This time of year my IS burns primarily with a black box. I try to adjust so there is just the smallest flame possible but it will go completely dark, the temp will settle somewhat, and then an hour later the secondaries are back and the stove top temps rise. This is normal IS "low burn" behavior.
The stove sounds like it is in a weak draft situation. My guess is this is due to a short chimney with a couple 90 turns and a too long horizontal pipe. An OAK is not going to improve this. In a yurt install with a short chimney you want to do everything you can to aid draft, so that the stove works well at 40F. At 20-30F it should be working great.Looks great Jafo!
Yes but that negative pressure should have little effect on anything, unless this was maybe before the OAK install? With an OAK and chimney, the stove should be isolated from any interior pressure differences. Unless the large amount of exhausting higher pressure air is great enough to cause a higher pressure in vicinity to the chimney cap? Speaking of he OAK if it were me I'd seal that up with high temp silicon at the joints (if you didn't already) and wrap it with some pipe wrap or other insulation. Don't want to create drafts or have condensation dripping off it.
It isn't normal for the temperature to go down when you reduce the draft and set your burn rate. It sounds like a cat stall. When it does that go out and check for smoke.what is your stovetop temperature when it does that?
Are these 36" or 48" chimney sections?
I was guessing 12' outside with about an 21" rise inside. Trouble is the two 90 deg elbows plus the long horizontal effectively reduce the height by about 3-5 ft.. To make it work as best as possible switch to double-wall connector inside, soften the interior 90 with 2-45s and an offset, reduce the horiz length by at least 6". 12" if possible would be better. That should improve performance notably during 30-40F weather.
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