ok! I know how to get hold of the people at yukon,also Keith is always willing and ready to help to help. About psg caddy, how can you get hold of factory support.Is there any factory support.
PSG Caddy vs Super Jack
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http://www.psg-distribution.com/contact-us.aspx
Follow the links to get ahold of them. They are out of Canada. I deleted their information from my e-mail. I needed some parts and they took care of things. Even called me personally when I couldn't contact them.
Follow the links to get ahold of them. They are out of Canada. I deleted their information from my e-mail. I needed some parts and they took care of things. Even called me personally when I couldn't contact them.
Great. Thank you very much laynes69. I am emailing them to find out about the dhw coil. If it is available, and will not interfere with the warranty of the unit, I will buy a caddy.
I'm sure this causes some real problems with the warranty, but any DHW loop would work, just put it in the back panel, and it looks like from their video that there is plenty of room. OR.... get a superjack that has a DHW loop that would not void the warranty.
mike1234 said:
Note also that putting a DHW coil in a stove designed for secondary combustion COULD also cause some burn problems - they go to a great deal of effort to get the firebox up to secondary burn temperatures, and that DHW coil is going to work like sticking a big ice cube in the middle of the works... It could very easily cause loss of secondary combustion with resuting efficiency loss and creosote buildup from the now unburned combustion gasses...
Gooserider
even if installed in the primary fire box? you think it would impact the secondary burn? I wonder how it works in the yukon then. It has the DHW option, and a secondary burn. But then I was thinking that the caddy was a more advanced, and efficient system, and that was the reason I was leaning toward it.
cenzino said:
Sometimes being more "advanced and efficient" also means being more sensitive to changes as well - look at cars for instance, you used to be able to do a tuneup almost by ear, and if you were off a bit it would still run just fine, while getting 12mpg... Nowadays cars get far better mileage, but it takes a far more sophisticated setup to tune them, and if everything isn't spot on they run like crap...
I haven't studied the Caddy in detail, but I suspect that if the designers didn't account for the possibility of doing a DHW coil in it, you might very well have it cause problems w/ secondary burn.
Gooserider
I think you want to stay out of the primary firebox. The video for the caddy shows the "filter box" (their words) and on the top the heat exchanger, both of these areas don't effect the fire in any way, they are the heat transfer areas. I would think a DHW loop in either of those areas will work to make hot water, but it will rob a certain amount of heat from your house, but I guess any DHW loop in any wood furnace would do that same thing.
cenzino said:
cenzino said:
When you are making all 8000 btu's per lb on your wood and exchanging all of the btu's...how can you get any more advanced?
It's not all about the reburn.You have to be able to exchange the heats your making.
Then there's durabilty & longevity to consider.
The Hot Rod we make does not effect the reburn in our furnace.It will generate 18 gallons an hour with an 80 degree rise.We have a long history of very satisfied customers and heating contractors.
In our line of 6 furnaces I'm sure we can match you up with one that will do exactly what you'll need it to do so that your liquid fuel bill is a thing of the past.
Mike is right, all the secondary combustion is done by the time it hits the top of the firebox before it enters the secondary heat exchanger. In no way would it affect the combustion of the furnace. I've considered doing it on my furnace, but I don't want a potential bomb in the basement. If I ever thought of a more efficient way to heat water, I would look at some of the new water heaters. You place a hot water coil directly in the firebox, and it will effect combustion. PSG makes a furnace called the MAX Caddy. I has the option to add a water coil. I think the coil is between the secondary heat exchanger, and the top of the firebox. For a left or right installation. But its too big.
I know what you are saying Keith. I am not counting out the yukon just yet. My old jensen is a little undersized for my need,and eats a lot of wood, but it works ok therefore it is giving me the opportunity to look at all that is available, efiiciency and all that. I like the looks of the Caddy and the fact that it meets EPA, but it does not offer DHW. I also looked at the Max caddy wood only, and it does, but I do not think it meets EPA, or uses the same burning principles as the regular caddy, and it is in the $3300.00 range. Having said all that, I am still undecided.
From what I have read, the Max Caddy does have the same combustion technology in the furnace as the Caddy. It meets canadian standards for their clean burning, but in order for it to meet the US standards for certification it would need a 20+ hour burn. This had came from an employee that worked for the company that built the furnaces.
Thats the problem keith. People do that and you see it in their stacks. Do you think its okay to buy a furnace, stuff it to the gills and damper it down where it smolders not producing much heat for 20 hours? I can say that when I'm burning, I'm producing alot of heat for a long time. If somebody did that I would hate to see their chimney. Thats where upgrading to a modern woodburning appliance has its perks. No more smoldering, creasote, low heat output. I get more heat from less than half the wood than I did with the old furnace stuffed and a longer clean burn. A 20 hour burn, please.
Why do you keep referring to the Jack furnaces as outdated? They have a secondary burn just like your Hotblast don't they?
The secondary burn on the Jack furnaces is 20% of the air that comes into the firebox through the forced air draft blower. It's 80% below and 20% above. That is according to the website. The secondary air is directed just above the firebrick toward the middle of the firebox. At least that's what the pictures lead you to believe. Perhaps I'm wrong on this, Kieth will be here shortly to correct if I am wrong.
Is that better or worse than the Caddy though? I don't run either of them nor have I seen them in person.freeburn said:
True ikessky.....our dear freind layne is trying to build up his choice in funaces like is has something to do with who he is as a person.
Been seeing this for months now and it's getting old.
Layne......getting some build up in a flue is going to be always there when burning wood. It's the nature of the beast and therefore some resposibility will always be there when someone chooses to burn wood instead of high priced liquid fuel.
To think you'll never brush out a flue is ridiculus.
I brush mine out once a year.
I also run my stack temps up high periodically over the coarse of the heating season to help burn out any small amounts of dried creosote deposits.
There will always be some labor when you are looking for the big payback.....nobody can sit at home all week doing nothing and then expect a guy to stop by on fri. with a paycheck for him.
Now as to the 20 hour burn times.
Here ya go assuming again Layne....which is all to normal for you.
I get 20 hour burn times when I need them like when I go 2 hours away guiding a ice fishing trip and I could be gone that long.
I refuse to pay for liquid fuel, so I'll set up my Big Jack to give me that burn rate.I must admit it's great to have that option.
My furnace does not load up either.
If I did that day in and day out I could see where my pipe would see a buildup of creosote,but I don't. My normal 12-15 hour burn times are just fine.
I can load it in the am and pm and it run 24/7 that way .I never have to re light my furnace and like I said before I clean out my flue once a season.
We are also American Made not Canadian.
Been seeing this for months now and it's getting old.
Layne......getting some build up in a flue is going to be always there when burning wood. It's the nature of the beast and therefore some resposibility will always be there when someone chooses to burn wood instead of high priced liquid fuel.
To think you'll never brush out a flue is ridiculus.
I brush mine out once a year.
I also run my stack temps up high periodically over the coarse of the heating season to help burn out any small amounts of dried creosote deposits.
There will always be some labor when you are looking for the big payback.....nobody can sit at home all week doing nothing and then expect a guy to stop by on fri. with a paycheck for him.
Now as to the 20 hour burn times.
Here ya go assuming again Layne....which is all to normal for you.
I get 20 hour burn times when I need them like when I go 2 hours away guiding a ice fishing trip and I could be gone that long.
I refuse to pay for liquid fuel, so I'll set up my Big Jack to give me that burn rate.I must admit it's great to have that option.
My furnace does not load up either.
If I did that day in and day out I could see where my pipe would see a buildup of creosote,but I don't. My normal 12-15 hour burn times are just fine.
I can load it in the am and pm and it run 24/7 that way .I never have to re light my furnace and like I said before I clean out my flue once a season.
We are also American Made not Canadian.
Let's save the flames for inside our respective favorite heating appliances folks... Seems like this is starting to get a bit more towards personalities and less towards the hardware, and that makes me start wanting to do mod stuff...
Gooserider
Gooserider
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