Nbroyer, you said when you drained some water, and reset your expansion tanks air pressure, your tank was 130 degrees at the top, and 120 degrees at the bottom, At that temperature, you have boiler water that has expanded quite a bit already. When your system is shut down for the off season, when the water cools and the storage tank gets to its lowest temperature, you might have the problem of way too little or negative pressure, and whatever might come from that. I'm not sure what would happen to your system then, but wouldn't want to find out. Maybe only air would get sucked in through the auto air vents, I don't know. So like Maple1 says, watch your system pressures when your system goes cold.
You should reset your system's psi when it's water is at it's coldest probable off season temp, let's say 50 degrees. If the highest temp you can achieve is 180 degrees, then you allow for how much your 500+ gallons of water will expand in volume going from 50 to 180 degrees = 130 degrees. In practice, if your system is filled to its proper psi at it's coolest temp, you will know if you have enough expansion volume the first time you heat the system up the full 130 degrees. Right now, because of the draining, you don't know if you have the right amount of water in your system. With too little water in your system, it might only appear you have enough expansion. I temporarily drained some water off to get that effect.
When I knew I had insufficient expansion and needed another expansion tank, I let the system cool down as close to 50 degrees as it would go. Then starting at my system preset of 15 psi, I added the new expansion tank. If you don't have auto fill and a pressure regulator valve, that's when you would add or subtract water yourself to get to whatever your system's startup psi is. Then I fired the system up to 180 degree to see if I now had enough expansion to keep the psi no more than 20 which is what I was shooting for. You could do the same to figure out if you needed an extra tank or not.
Mike