pipes frozen

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J, turn off the feed valve from the boiler to the zone, for now. Atleast until you find the freeze up.

Ask me how I know this. The flood was epic :mad:
 
Ok, fixed thanx for all the advice. Borrowed a jet? Heater from a friend and that got the crawl space to what seamed like 90 degrees in no time, a friend and I took some torches to some trouble spots (un-insulated) and boom heat is on.

Re-insulated every pipe, some with the really good rubber stuff and praying this doesn't happen again. I'm now so invested in this wood heating I need a few trouble free years to recoup my spending.

Again thanks for all the help and advice!!!
 
Glad it worked out for you.
It may be overkill but you can also apply some thermostatically controlled heat tape to the pipes before installing the insulation. You don't even have to connect them to power at this point but can connect via an extension cord if you have problems in the future.
 
Actually I want to know what I just used, I didn't look at the brand but he said it took kerosene or diesel fuel.

I gotta get me one, what are they called? I see a lot that are kerosene but not diesel.
 
Torpedo heater?
 
Around here they always called them "salamanders". Glad it all worked out.

I think the heat tape is a good idea. You might also look at sealing up any air infiltration points where outside air can draft on pipes.
 
Didn't a member around here sell a little unit to attach to your boiler that would energize the circulator for a little while every x hours, to avoid freeze-up for woodburners?
 
OK , mister English teacher. Thanks for the correction. Just like my wife.;)

I expected you to mention using a torch sometimes ends up with a visit form your guys.:ZZZ


Sorry Flying Cow . . . couldn't help myself.

And yeah . . . torch often equals a visit from us . . . did a story yesterday with the ABC affiliate and a local country station down here on that in fact.
 
Didn't a member around here sell a little unit to attach to your boiler that would energize the circulator for a little while every x hours, to avoid freeze-up for woodburners?


Bridgerman . . . Bearmountaindesign.com . . . think that's the guy you're thinking about.
 
Around here they always called them "salamanders". Glad it all worked out.

I think the heat tape is a good idea. You might also look at sealing up any air infiltration points where outside air can draft on pipes.

I'm working on sealing any drafts today, there are a couple minor ones. I'm also going to replace some of the old insulation with new, considering it only cost around $1 for a 6ft length.

I'm not going with the tape, too much pipe to cover.
 
There is a new product for protecting water pipes down to -30 degrees called Ice-Loc
http://www.iceloc.com/How_To.html

Also on about.com are 8 pages of some good tips on frozen pipes in your home.

http://homerepair.about.com/od/plumbingrepair/ss/thaw_frzn_pipe.htm

From Page 5 of 8
Preventing Frozen Pipes
There are a few things you can do to prevent the problem of freezing pipes from occurring again.

* Leave the faucet drip slightly as a trickle. The dripping water will keep the water in the pipe from freezing.
* Open kitchen base cabinet and let room air circulate.
* Open kitchen base cabinet and place a small portable heater near or in it to heat the pipes
* Wrap the problem pipe with electrical heat tape.
* Insulate the problem pipes with foam insulation wrap, especially those that run through unheated spaces.
* Temper the currently unheated crawlspace by placing a heater in the crawlspace. You just need to elevate the crawlspace temperature to modestly above freezing, about 40°F.
 
Glad it worked out for you.
It may be overkill but you can also apply some thermostatically controlled heat tape to the pipes before installing the insulation. You don't even have to connect them to power at this point but can connect via an extension cord if you have problems in the future.

Good idea, its not overkill at all - all the insulation in the world won't help those pipe since they never get any warm water circulating through them ever.

This is why I hate it when builders put mechanical systems in uninsulated vented attics and crawls. And outside walls too. If all system where build inside the thermal envelope of the building we would never have these problems!
 
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I'm not going with the tape, too much pipe to cover.
Just to be clear you wouldn't have to wrap pipes with tape. You just run it linearly along the length of the pipe under the insulation you're installing. The small amount of heat added by the tape would be held in by the insulation preventing freezing.
 
or you could just put a little timer on your boiler to circulate for a couple minutes every few hours.
 
or you could just put a little timer on your boiler to circulate for a couple minutes every few hours.
With a thermostatic control set near freezing so that you're not wasting pump or fuel energy.
 
Good idea, its not overkill at all - all the insulation in the world won't help those pipe since they never get any warm water circulating through them ever.

This is why I hate it when builders put mechanical systems in uninsulated vented attics and crawls. And outside walls too. If all system where build inside the thermal envelope of the building we would never have these problems!
+1
 
yup: http://www.bearmountaindesign.com/

that is the one I was thinking of. Seems like the ultimate insurance, rather than guessing where to put tapes.

Thanks Guys,

Homebrewz, a ThermGuard on your thermostat will prevent the problem in the future. You can program it to turn on your boiler for a couple of minutes every few hours and your pipes will never freeze again. Installs in 5 minutes. A pretty simple solution once your pipes are thawed of course! I'm glad you were able to get them goin' without a mess in the basement. My basement flooded since I wasn't home to turn off the refill valve. The water kept coming until the well drained. Lucky for me I have a poor producing well :-)

John
 
Salamander or Torpedo heaters that run on Kerosene are less "stinky" than running on fuel oil, hot a big deal in an emergency but if you want to use one for temporary shop or garage heat it makes a difference especially if you have sensitivity to isocrynates(sp?).
 
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