I'm surprised too Bill. Confusion like this is supposed to be prevented by the name change (which durock did) when changing their product. Hmmmm
Painted Durock (or hardibacker) for Heat Shield
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I'm surprised too Bill. Confusion like this is supposed to be prevented by the name change (which durock did) when changing their product. Hmmmm
Another thing that I have realized in my research is that I believe the New Generation Panels are just more profitable to USG. Something that I believe is true, but also something that they are not going to readily admit.
Bill
Bill
I can tell you for a fact first hand that I just installed Durock NextGen on the face of my Napoleon NZ3000 chase, above the fireplace. I had a decent fire going in it last night, kinda some "dry runs" for the fireplace before we install the stone veneer on it later this week. I used a digital thermal meter on it and the temps right above the fireplace, without the blower on, reached over 247 degrees on the durock that was directly above the shroud outlets. The area for several feet above the stove must contain non combustional material per code. Metal studs, non-combustible cement board, etc. Those temps prompted no combustion, no ill-effects (other than a couple of hairline cracks, which for those that use durock in areas that get warm know that durock has moisture in it, and when it dries out it will crack a little). The metal lathe and scratchcoat will alleviate that. No smoke, no combustion, nothing. Something just doesn't jive with what that guy told the caller.........
Tiny stress cracks are normal according to Durock and nothing to worry about.. Yup you will not burn this stuff! I recall a forum member tried to burn it over a hot barrel fire for hours with direct flame on it and it didn't burn..
Ray
GrampaDennis
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This is not an "official" test, but I tried to light the 1/2" HardiBacker with a MAPP gas torch. I could make it glow red, but it died right out when I pulled the torch away. The surface is some kind of fiberous stuff, but the interior of the board is more cementicious. Even though the cut edge had a little fuzz on it, I could not get the fuzz to burn when I took the torch away.
there were members on here last year making temporary baffles for their stoves out of it last year! Now, that is not recommended by any means at all, but just saying that it was done and it apparently worked.......
ScotO, you said that "the area for several feet above the stove must contain non-combustible material. Metal studs..." My Tradition CE manual states 3.4.3 Framing, Facing and Mantel
A. Frame the fireplace u sing 2 x3 or heavier lumber
B. Warning: "Combustible materials cannot be used in the space directly above the fireplace, except for the studs above the facade that support the facing and mantel. This area must remain empty for a height of 6'8" from the base of the fireplace.
Did yours say that, or did it specifically say that the studs used for the front of the chase had to be metal?
The reason I am asking, is that I want to do something similar to yours, on a smaller scale, and want a wood mantel. I don't think I could possibly attach a wooden mantel to those flimsy metal studs, so I planned to use a wooden "header" above the triangles on top of the stove so I can drill into them. If I didn't use wood do you have a guess how I could install a mantel there?
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