Overfire questions

[firenightdance]

OK, new issue. Embarrassing to post about since I actually did this once before (but didn't post publicly about it - the point is I didn't learn my lesson).

I had a pretty righteous overfire in my F45 v2. Ever since putting in screws in the primary boost holes, the stove has behaved beautifully. Long, controllable fires. I guess it got me lazy - plus ADHD - but anyway, I loaded in a bunch of wood on a hot coal bed the other day then got distracted. I smelled something and looked up from my work and noticed a light haze in the house, which was fairly terrifying. Ran in and it was RAGING inside the stove. Knew I needed to open the stove door (and our windows). I got the temp down into the 700s-600s pretty fast since it's cold here. When I thought to first measure the top (pretty soon after opening the door) it was 840F...so that means it was probably above that before I opened it up. Ouch...I hate to think what it was inside/flue temp. I didn't see anything glowing but we also had the lights on. I did notice the SS flue liner was bronze-colored after but I can't be sure it wasn't that way before.

SO...since this happened, our fires smother kinda of quickly on startup and are difficult to keep going. However, I don't want to immediately suspect the overfire because there are several other variables at play:
1) The day after the overfire, I tightened the door by removing a hinge plate, so the seal (and door) is much tighter...I actually have to use a bit of force to lock the handle down. Not a ton, but it's stiff.
2) I used up a palette of wood and went to a new stack that my wood guy says is the same wood, but when I press the tongs of my meter ALL the way in (approx a centimenter) it's reading high - 19- 25% moisture. Gonna get some kiln-fired wood to check it's not the stove.

So yeah, I'm not sure what's up...but I am curious what I should check on the F45v2 to make sure I didn't damage things.
1) What was the smoke? It was light and it smelled unlike wood smoke, more chemical - which made me think the high temp either brought a new level of curing to the paint or damaged the paint (no big deal if that's the extent of it). Or it was detritus on the stovetop or in the chimney.
2) The "secondary" holes baffles on top don't look warped or sagging.
3) Baffle blanket - could I have melted or damaged it?
4) Anything else to check?

The stove is located in an area where it's very hard to disassemble (and clean, which we haven't done yet) so anything I can just visually check with the thing intact would be particularly helpful. Thanks, long rambling post!

 

[Todd]

I bet you didn’t do any damage and it’s probably just the wood or draft. I doubt you melted the baffle blanket, that stuff is well rated over 2000 degrees. You may have loosened some flue deposits and they could have fallen down and are restricting the draft? Also check your chimney cap.

 

[kborndale]

You say the wood measures 19-25%. Right before you tested it did you get an ax and resplit the wood so that you were checking the inside of the wood? If not your wood actually measures 30-35% and is most likely the reason your fire won't stay lit.

 

[firenightdance]

You say the wood measures 19-25%. Right before you tested it did you get an ax and resplit the wood so that you were checking the inside of the wood? If not your wood actually measures 30-35% and is most likely the reason your fire won't stay lit.

I didn't split it but I stuck the probes way in on different pieces and in different locations, so I guess I am partway between your proper way to do it and the clueless way I used to (not sticking pins in deep enough).

My wood guy brought over some different stuff (all ash, but this is a different batch) and it's burning better I think. Perhaps the tight seal on the door restricted the airflow a lot and I have to relearn the stove a bit. Feel like I have to keep the air open longer until everything is pretty active, then shut down. On hot beds I used to have to shut down almost instantly...we'll see.

I agree the wood was probably moister than ideal...strange b/c we burnt a ton from the same batch and it was fine.

 

[kborndale]

Checking moisture content without resplitting the wood right before checking is useless. Your wood is too wet. If you are buying wood you need to be a year ahead. It's extremely rare to buy wood that is ready to burn. Your best bet is getting a year ahead. Buy next winters wood now and stack it. By next winter it will be dry enough to burn.

 

[firenightdance]

Checking moisture content without resplitting the wood right before checking is useless. Your wood is too wet. If you are buying wood you need to be a year ahead. It's extremely rare to buy wood that is ready to burn. Your best bet is getting a year ahead. Buy next winters wood now and stack it. By next winter it will be dry enough to burn.

We've had two entire cords now that burned beautifully, and about 1/3 of the last delivery which burned fine. It's 3 years' drying since cutting according to our guy, whom I trust, but I'm not sure when it was processed into splits. Something was definitely off with this last batch.

NB: this is ash which I was advised by multiple sources is ready to burn relatively quickly. I am parroting what I've been told though - I am not an arborist.