Operating temps of new lopi insert.

[d.sebens]

I’m getting used to operating this insert and have some questions. I have a washer probe for my at200. With a full load of elm on a warm stove I am seeing 900-1080 degrees at the appliance connector with the air shut down all the way.

My start up is as follows, load on coals, door,air,bypass open until wood catches fire. Shut door and run until about 250 degrees, close bypass. Run until about 400-500 degrees wood is starting to really off gas, crank air back to almost closed about 80%. At 600 close the air all the way. Temp slowly rises as secondaries start to warm up and take off. Around 800 degrees baffle and secondaries start to glow and are really putting in the work. Temp will continue to climb until its ready to stop(some where between 900-1080 so far). With air all the way down you can see secondary combustion flames wrapping around the baffle and running a little up the insert exit( you can see the flames through the bypass rod hole)

I know the bypass sits fully shut as it was visible before liner install.

After the wood out gas slows down temps will creep down to a comfortable 700 and slowly drop as wood is consumed.

The wood is 2 year old siberian elm, some random dead wood that feels a little light and saw dust bricks to fill the gaps.

Insert is brand new Lopi large flush, 6 inch insulated liner 15ft tall chimney. I haven’t seen any glowing on the stove and ir readings through the face plate (if it’s accurate) haven’t been higher than 650.

I plan on moving the sensor as up the liner ss as possible should be about 10 inches from the exit I think.

Any insight on this?

 

[BrianVA]

I also have a Lopi Large Flush and an Auber AT 210. I have the washer probe tucked into the flue collar where the flue connects to the insert. My temp readings are no where near that high. But it could be because my probe washer is positioned in a way to cause a lower reading. I will typically see 500 - 550 F max. Perhaps others can tell you if those temps seem too high (or if mine seem too low).

I can share that my reload procedure is a little different:

-I rake the coals to the left side and load so only the ends of the new logs are being lit (at least initially). This helps light the new logs faster, increases burn times, and makes it a lot faster to get the unit burning clean again.

-I close the bypass as soon as I close the door. The bypass is really just for making it easier to keep smoke out of the house and to help establish draft on a cold firebox. Closing it sooner will get the unit back to clean burn mode quicker.

-From there, I judge the fire and close the air down in increments. It usually takes 3 or 4 adjustments over the course of 30 to 45 mins. I do look at the temp readings, but I'm mostly judging by how the fire is burning, how much wood I loaded, how long of a burn am I looking for, etc. Very rarely do I pull it all the way out.

Question: Are you 100% positive you're getting the bypass fully closed? For my unit, I have to close it with a quick motion with some authority behind it. I wouldn't say I'm all out slamming it, but I'm definitely not being gentle with it. If I try to gently close it, it will leave a 1/4" gap still open. This could cause high flue temps.

 

[d.sebens]

I also have a Lopi Large Flush and an Auber AT 210. I have the washer probe tucked into the flue collar where the flue connects to the insert. My temp readings are no where near that high. But it could be because my probe washer is positioned in a way to cause a lower reading. I will typically see 500 - 550 F max. Perhaps others can tell you if those temps seem too high (or if mine seem too low).

I can share that my reload procedure is a little different:

-I rake the coals to the left side and load so only the ends of the new logs are being lit (at least initially). This helps light the new logs faster, increases burn times, and makes it a lot faster to get the unit burning clean again.

-I close the bypass as soon as I close the door. The bypass is really just for making it easier to keep smoke out of the house and to help establish draft on a cold firebox. Closing it sooner will get the unit back to clean burn mode quicker.

-From there, I judge the fire and close the air down in increments. It usually takes 3 or 4 adjustments over the course of 30 to 45 mins. I do look at the temp readings, but I'm mostly judging by how the fire is burning, how much wood I loaded, how long of a burn am I looking for, etc. Very rarely do I pull it all the way out.

Question: Are you 100% positive you're getting the bypass fully closed? For my unit, I have to close it with a quick motion with some authority behind it. I wouldn't say I'm all out slamming it, but I'm definitely not being gentle with it. If I try to gently close it, it will leave a 1/4" gap still open. This could cause high flue temps.

Yes I close it fast. When the stove is cool I will look up to make sure.
I haven’t checked my door seal or window seal, but with the air shut down it looks like almost all the air is coming from the secondaries. Mine definitely runs with the air pulled out all the way. I’ve double checked by pulling the air control out fast and it feels like it’s hitting the stop correctly.
Maybe I need to take the face off and see if I can see the action to make sure it’s closing all the way.

 

[EbS-P]

Where exactly is the washer? How tall is the liner?

 

[d.sebens]

Washer is installed on the appliance adapter with a sheet metal screw and cpu thermal compound (just cause I had it around). So about 1.5 inches from the exit of the stove.

 

[BrianVA]

Yes, check the door and window seal to be sure. Maybe you're just waiting too long to start closing it down?

It sounds like the air control is working if you have no primary flame with the air closed all the way down. Once the fire is hot, the secondaries will continue to fire so long as there is smoke to burn off.

I like to have a little bit of primary flame to make sure the burn stays clean, which is why I rarely fully close the air.

 

[EbS-P]

Washer is installed on the appliance adapter with a sheet metal screw and cpu thermal compound (just cause I had it around). So about 1.5 inches from the exit of the stove.

That’s really hot! I thought my insert was running hot and I just have a nice straw colored adapter now. Flue gas temps at the adapter almost touching the damper peak now at 950 degrees after adding a damper. Before damper temps were 1150 on a not full load.

My experience with washer probe is that it is slow to respond at that location. But again I don’t have a cat stove. With my IR gun I don’t see any temps above 550.

Do you have a cat probe?

 

[EbS-P]

Washer is installed on the appliance adapter with a sheet metal screw and cpu thermal compound (just cause I had it around). So about 1.5 inches from the exit of the stove.

15’ doesn’t strike me as excessive draft.

What color is the adapter now? Can you see any temper colors running across it?

 

[d.sebens]

That’s really hot! I thought my insert was running hot and I just have a nice straw colored adapter now. Flue gas temps at the adapter almost touching the damper peak now at 950 degrees after adding a damper. Before damper temps were 1150 on a not full load.

My experience with washer probe is that it is slow to respond at that location. But again I don’t have a cat stove. With my IR gun I don’t see any temps above 550.

Do you have a cat probe?

It’s a tube stove with no temp readings.

 

[EbS-P]

It’s a tube stove with no temp readings.

With a bypass ??

 

[d.sebens]

With a bypass ??

The bypass is for reloading mainly. The door is huge and it is easy for the smoke to roll out.

 

[BrianVA]

The bypass is for reloading mainly. The door is huge and it is easy for the smoke to roll out.

View attachment 291769

Great looking setup! I like the brick. Is that the natural color or did you whitewash it?

 

[d.sebens]

Great looking setup! I like the brick. Is that the natural color or did you whitewash it?

Thanks! We whitewashed them. It was clay brick with other colors. The other colors really show through the whitewash, i feel it helps keep the depth of the brick.

 

[d.sebens]

15’ doesn’t strike me as excessive draft.

What color is the adapter now? Can you see any temper colors running across it?

I need to take the face and surround off to see. The face mounts on the surround. Though now that I think about it, it might actually mount in the same place the surround mounts. Ill have to see about that.

 

[EbS-P]

The bypass is for reloading mainly. The door is huge and it is easy for the smoke to roll out.

View attachment 291769

Ok that makes much sense I didn’t think they where a hybrid but didn’t really know. My apologies for not reading closer. (Trying to multi task) Does the blower speed make any difference on temps?

15’ of liner on a tube stove make me think you are waiting to long to turn down. We are assuming the temp reading is correct. At that skin temp you basically have flames going up the adapter. 650 stove top through the grill sounds better. Did you double check settings for the correct thermocouple?

Try a top down fire if you haven’t . If I have dry kindling I can light latch the door and come back in 8-10 minutes and set air at half. Until it needs turned down and the rest of the way. I run my starts hot to clean up my exhaust to keep the neighbors happy.

If you taking the surround off and you have a screw hole I’m really liking my probe vs washer. It responds instantly to air changes.

 

[EbS-P]

The bypass is for reloading mainly. The door is huge and it is easy for the smoke to roll out.

View attachment 291769

I should have done a flush insert but I was too cheap. That looks great.

 

[d.sebens]

Ok that makes much sense I didn’t think they where a hybrid but didn’t really know. My apologies for not reading closer. (Trying to multi task) Does the blower speed make any difference on temps?

15’ of liner on a tube stove make me think you are waiting to long to turn down. We are assuming the temp reading is correct. At that skin temp you basically have flames going up the adapter. 650 stove top through the grill sounds better. Did you double check settings for the correct thermocouple?

Try a top down fire if you haven’t . If I have dry kindling I can light latch the door and come back in 8-10 minutes and set air at half. Until it needs turned down and the rest of the way. I run my starts hot to clean up my exhaust to keep the neighbors happy.

If you taking the surround off and you have a screw hole I’m really liking my probe vs washer. It responds instantly to air changes.

I turn it down based on the fire. I let it rip to warm up and then aggressively turn down. I’mall the way closed in less than 15 minutes. I think I close down a little too fast. You see it start to smoke in the firebox quite a bit before the secondaries light of. It’s when they light off that it sky rockets the temp.

 

[EbS-P]

I turn it down based on the fire. I let it rip to warm up and then aggressively turn down. I’mall the way closed in less than 15 minutes. I think I close down a little too fast. You see it start to smoke in the firebox quite a bit before the secondaries light of. It’s when they light off that it sky rockets the temp.

15 min is fast how big are your splits and how tight are you packing them. Big and tighter = slower burn.

 

[d.sebens]

These splits range from 3 inch pie shapes to 5 inch. I am putting saw dust bricks in any openings to fill the gaps. Basically as tight as I can. Stacked up to the secondary tubes.

 

[d.sebens]

I took the surround and face off. The insert connector is a solid beautiful brown color lol. I checked that the bypass was shutting fully. I removed the cover for the air damper, it is a simple sliding plate design, the bottom that it slides on was a little bowed so I bent it back straight. The door and window gasket looks to be correctly installed. The door pulls tight when latched. I noticed that I could squish the window a little in 2 corners. I carefully tighted the window clamps until I couldnt compress the window into the gasket anymore. I called the owner of the place I got it from to run it by him, he has been very helpful with the process. He's not saying the window couldnt of caused it but he thinks my wood is too dry for this stove. I split a fresh piece after sitting inside over night, it reads 15%. He says that this stove doesnt turn down as much as other stoves and it's possible its running away from the wood being too dry. I know this is kind of a hot topic, but it's easy enough to test since I have 20% ash also. I will run that and see what happens.

 

[BrianVA]

I took the surround and face off. The insert connector is a solid beautiful brown color lol. I checked that the bypass was shutting fully. I removed the cover for the air damper, it is a simple sliding plate design, the bottom that it slides on was a little bowed so I bent it back straight. The door and window gasket looks to be correctly installed. The door pulls tight when latched. I noticed that I could squish the window a little in 2 corners. I carefully tighted the window clamps until I couldnt compress the window into the gasket anymore. I called the owner of the place I got it from to run it by him, he has been very helpful with the process. He's not saying the window couldnt of caused it but he thinks my wood is too dry for this stove. I split a fresh piece after sitting inside over night, it reads 15%. He says that this stove doesnt turn down as much as other stoves and it's possible its running away from the wood being too dry. I know this is kind of a hot topic, but it's easy enough to test since I have 20% ash also. I will run that and see what happens.

I'll definitely be interested to hear your test results. I have burned plenty of 15% red oak and not had any problems with it.

 

[d.sebens]

I'll definitely be interested to hear your test results. I have burned plenty of 15% red oak and not had any problems with it.

My Siberian elm is nowhere as dense though

 

[EbS-P]

If it’s brown it wasn’t 900 degrees I don’t think. If it was that hot it wouldn’t have a color. I could be wrong.

Just got to thinking how long a screw did you put in. Did you just create a temp probe. If so temps are a bit hi but fine.

 

[d.sebens]

That’s carbon steel. What about stainless? Its just a short 1/4 sheeter. Burning the ash has made a difference. These splits are much larger and slightly higher moisture. Running on low I see 700-750 at its peak. The peak also lasts much longer.

 

[d.sebens]

Here’s a picture of my appliance adapter.