EbS-P
Minister of Fire
That’s been hotter than mine. Insulation wrapped around it would make a difference too. I’m probably babying mine a bit now that I have a damper.
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Operating temps of new lopi insert.
- Thread starter d.sebens
- Start date
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True and a very good point. I've only ever burned dense hardwoods in mine. Simply because that's what I have access to.
Just following up. I’m nowhere near a pro operating this insert but this is my findings.
I think this stove likes to run hot at the appliance connector. On a good full size load with fan on I am seeing temps 800-950 degrees during hard secondary off gassing. Sometimes a little higher. I’ve been trying to watch the temps but also read the fire. This is with the air turned back enough that the primary flames start to get lazy
If I pull air back anymore, primary goes away and insert cools down, but after a few minutes I start to lose secondary flames (even with saw dust bricks). I’ll have to take a video at some point but I think the fire box looks like a normal controlled fire during operation.
When the wood is offgasing hard I can see flames about the baffle board. There’s no way to slow it down to a point that it’s not sucking the fire up there without snuffing the fire.
My flue temps seem high but the fire looks normal so at this point I think I will assume that the temps are my new normal when measured at the appliance adapter.
I should note after all the outgassing the temps settle down to 700’s and slowly drop over the course of the burn.
I think this stove likes to run hot at the appliance connector. On a good full size load with fan on I am seeing temps 800-950 degrees during hard secondary off gassing. Sometimes a little higher. I’ve been trying to watch the temps but also read the fire. This is with the air turned back enough that the primary flames start to get lazy
If I pull air back anymore, primary goes away and insert cools down, but after a few minutes I start to lose secondary flames (even with saw dust bricks). I’ll have to take a video at some point but I think the fire box looks like a normal controlled fire during operation.
When the wood is offgasing hard I can see flames about the baffle board. There’s no way to slow it down to a point that it’s not sucking the fire up there without snuffing the fire.
My flue temps seem high but the fire looks normal so at this point I think I will assume that the temps are my new normal when measured at the appliance adapter.
I should note after all the outgassing the temps settle down to 700’s and slowly drop over the course of the burn.
EbS-P
Minister of Fire
So after 20 loads in my 1800i I agree that it runs hot. I will say I can run 100% air closed with really dry wood and a medium hot reload. I do think the air primary / secondary air balance is what allows for slower burn rates. Get the load just hot enough for consistent continuous out gassing that is burned at the tubes. Ideally I want a damper setting that allows me to operate the stove without needing to change damper position.
I am going to make the argument that if you have to run at full air, your damper is providing too much restriction. If firebox could keep high enough seconds combustion would continue. So you need the extra air to keep temps. If the stove ran well(subjective term here, clean efficient ect) this way they would do away with unregulated secondary air.
I’m getting the feeling that this stove drafts easy and will run hot exhaust gas temps at the collar. I would like to know how the gas temps drop say from the collar to 18” above.
I don’t ever think I’ve gotten flames up the collar. But i did see almost 1200 degrees temps. What I want to do is take my washer probe unit and measure liner temp under the insulation. It that will probably have to wait till next year. Flowers are up here. And mid-high 70s all week. Time to sweep, clean out and start stacking for next year.
I am going to make the argument that if you have to run at full air, your damper is providing too much restriction. If firebox could keep high enough seconds combustion would continue. So you need the extra air to keep temps. If the stove ran well(subjective term here, clean efficient ect) this way they would do away with unregulated secondary air.
I’m getting the feeling that this stove drafts easy and will run hot exhaust gas temps at the collar. I would like to know how the gas temps drop say from the collar to 18” above.
I don’t ever think I’ve gotten flames up the collar. But i did see almost 1200 degrees temps. What I want to do is take my washer probe unit and measure liner temp under the insulation. It that will probably have to wait till next year. Flowers are up here. And mid-high 70s all week. Time to sweep, clean out and start stacking for next year.
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