OMG I am really starting to hate my Austroflamm Pellet Stove.

[RancherPacker]

okay.....it only popped the breaker when i wired those terminals direct...not any other time.
My schedule is slowing down now I will have time to pull the conv fan and clean it up and lubricate. I hope I can get it working properly again. I did order a new rebuilt control board from Joe on eBay so will have one on hand if or when needed. I want to get a good surge protector installed before I plug the new board in though.

 

[Mt Bob]

Okay yes I did unplug stove and here is a picture of the male /female terminals on my convection blower. The stove is burning when i took this pic and neither of the fans (that little black one or the large squirrel cage type) for the convection blower are turning. The exhaust one is working though.

Is the convection fan supposed to turn when stove is on low? because if I turn the stove up to high it will start running. However that is when stove shuts it's self off/down too. I jumped both snap disks and it still will shut off if on high.[/

Okay yes I did unplug stove and here is a picture of the male /female terminals on my convection blower. The stove is burning when i took this pic and neither of the fans (that little black one or the large squirrel cage type) for the convection blower are turning. The exhaust one is working though.

Is the convection fan supposed to turn when stove is on low? because if I turn the stove up to high it will start running. However that is when stove shuts it's self off/down too. I jumped both snap disks and it still will shut off if on high.

OK Reading the post I am replying to,you seem to think you have 3 fans.OK forget all this,Slight chance your air flow sensor is bad,but very slight.order a new/used,rebuilt control board and you will be happy.

 

[RancherPacker]

OK Reading the post I am replying to,you seem to think you have 3 fans.OK forget all this,Slight chance your air flow sensor is bad,but very slight.order a new/used,rebuilt control board and you will be happy.

Thanks for helping me, yes I did order a rebuilt control board from Joe on ebay. Will put a surge protector in before I install it though.

 

[Mt Bob]

Well I work on these part time,am an auto mechanic,have run one of these stoves for many years.I still run my original control board/but 2 years ago it screwed up,soldered in 3 caps and has been running still.Joe sold me the updated prom,works great.The two temp switches would cause constant problems,The airflow sensor is hard to diagnos,but goes bad rarely,mostky if you bummped it.dropped it etc.You have one of the best stoves ever made,take care of it and it will take care of you.

 

[RancherPacker]

Well I work on these part time,am an auto mechanic,have run one of these stoves for many years.I still run my original control board/but 2 years ago it screwed up,soldered in 3 caps and has been running still.Joe sold me the updated prom,works great.The two temp switches would cause constant problems,The airflow sensor is hard to diagnos,but goes bad rarely,mostky if you bummped it.dropped it etc.You have one of the best stoves ever made,take care of it and it will take care of you.

How did you know you needed to solder in 3 caps? By the 2 temp switches do u mean the high limit and the low limit snap discs?

 

[RancherPacker]

Just updating what is happening with my stove. I have one of Joe's rebuilt boards coming. I have hospital grade GTT Electronics Surge Supressor. Today I jumped the snap disc (again) that is at the convection blower = no change stove still went out after 30ish minutes. Then I left that jump on and jumped the snap disc nearest the exhaust blower = no change stove still went out after 30 ish minutes. Then I removed the convection side jump and stove ran as normal. (probably just luck) after a few hours I turned stove to highest setting and it went out after 20 minutes. Now I have the jumps all removed. Hoping to get the stove running on low again. Tomorrow I hope to remove the convection fan and clean and oil it up in preparation of installing Joe's rebuilt main board when it arrives soon.

I really appreciate everyone helping me with troubleshooting. THANKS!

 

[pinetop12]

Just updating what is happening with my stove. I have one of Joe's rebuilt boards coming. I have hospital grade GTT Electronics Surge Supressor. Today I jumped the snap disc (again) that is at the convection blower = no change stove still went out after 30ish minutes. Then I left that jump on and jumped the snap disc nearest the exhaust blower = no change stove still went out after 30 ish minutes. Then I removed the convection side jump and stove ran as normal. (probably just luck) after a few hours I turned stove to highest setting and it went out after 20 minutes. Now I have the jumps all removed. Hoping to get the stove running on low again. Tomorrow I hope to remove the convection fan and clean and oil it up in preparation of installing Joe's rebuilt main board when it arrives soon.

I really appreciate everyone helping me with troubleshooting. THANKS!

Hopefully this does not muddy the waters . Concerning the Convection fan. If you've yet to remove the fan ....Tracing the wire back to the control board is a painstaking hassle . Since you'll be taking the fan out once a year to clean ,... cutting the wires and reattaching with this or similar will save you some time and effort http://www.lowes.com/pd_136010-12704-770310_1z0yt4q__?productId=3363058&pl=1 At least that what I've done. Works for me. Hope this helps and good luck

 

[RancherPacker]

GOOD NEWS.......It appears entirely possible that my stove was in LOGIC LOCK. I ran across the posts about someone having an Austroflamm with Logic Lock and did the unplug it 30 mins to unscramble the analog computer. So I figured I would give it a try. Can' t hurt and easy to do. RESULTS = convection fan back to working as it should and no shut down on higher setting anymore. YAY. Now here's to hoping it stays fixed! I do plan to take the convection fan out today for a good cleaning as long as I have the panels off. And of course if it stays fixed Joe's rebuild board will be great o have on hand just in case.

Pinetop12's suggestion of splicing the wires is a great tip thanks to all

 

[Mark_ms]

Well that is great news.
I would put the new circuit board in when you get it from Joe and use the old one for backup. The new one would have the latest Eprom and your stove will run more efficiently.
If you use the terminals as Pinetop suggested put a male/female on the fan side and a male/female on the terminal side the. Do one wire at a time.

What is a little disconcerting is that it seems you did not unplug your stove when working on it. Had you done so you may have found the problem earlier.

 

[RancherPacker]

oh I don't know how you think that. .......I do unplug it every time, It just doesn't take 30 minutes to jump the snap disks which is about all i have done except the original cleaning last fall.

 

[RancherPacker]

Convection Fan removed cleaned to pristine with soft brush and vacuum then each fin with a Q-tip and vacuum. Oiled bushings both ends. Re-installed and fired up. Convection fan came on at 6 minutes nice and quiet. Stove burning with very nice flame set at Medium (12 0'clock). Hoping for no shut down as it was doing all last week until I unplugged it for 40 minutes last evening. Today it was Sunny and some what warm outside unplugged for over an hour while I removed and cleaned fan. I would like to know how to adjust the airflow and the pellet rate AFTER I get Joe's rebuilt board in and everything running normal.

 

[RancherPacker]

Oh man, I can't wait to get Joe's Rebuilt main board. My stove seems to be working, I mean both Fans run now, it starts up great, no unauthorized shut downs anymore. Soon as it gets through the start up the flame goes Lazy and week and too orange. I took the air sensor out very carefully and dusted it with canned air. I know how to handle computer parts I build my own gaming computers from scratch. I also vacuumed the air tube the sensor sits in. It seems worse though for the cleaning, all of the glass soots up black now instead of only partial glass going brownish. I hope the new/rebuilt board cures this.

 

[pelletpot]

UPDATE: Joe's Board came today, turned stove off cleaned whole interior, pot and all for nice clean start. NOPE new rebuilt board isn't doing any better than the original board I bought the stove with. What do I buy now?? AIR SENSOR?? This Austroflamm is giving me a head ache LOL seriously I would like to get it running properly. Still has TALL lazy dark orange flame soots up the glass in an hour. I turned the air up and down on the user control board so I know it is now all the way up. Turned pellet feed up and down left it at medium low. Both fans are on. I am not cold by any means I just know the stove is not performing right.

 

[smwilliamson]

Omg you're killing me!

1. Low limit, it's plastic, possibly brittle and when the stove gets warm, pin loosens and continuity is lost, stops feeding. Take the low limit off and jump the connection see if will run on all temps for longer.

2. High limit, also a plastic switch, sometimes the screws that hold it in are too big for the holes on the metal ring attached to the cap and the pin looses continuity, which will stop the feeding until the temp drops. You can jump that one too.

3. Are your tstat connections on the motherboard connected? Stove will start and run for 35 minutes then shut down.

4. Verify low limit is a F140-20 switch, verify high limit is a L200-50 switch

5. Auger bushing?????? Is there wood dust under the auger motor leaking through the bushing and slowing or binding up the feed?

6.digital optical sensor...got lint caught across the resistor?

My bet is on faulty low limit or tstat connection.

 

[smwilliamson]

Remove the air sensor and blast it with some mass air flow sensor cleaner from an auto parts store.

 

[RancherPacker]

Stove is not shutting down any more. Even before I replaced the low limit....Forgot to say I replaced low limit on the exhaust blower 2 days ago. have not replaced high limit switch but have jumped it. There seems to be no problem with pellet feed and no wood dust under the auger motor leaking through the bushing and slowing or binding up the feed. I don't think there is a digital optical sensor on and older Austroflamm. All the connections on the motherboard seem tight and fine to me. You will have to be more specific as to exactly which are tstat so I can make sure I am not missing something. Next rip into town I will get air flow sensor cleaner but I did clean it with canned air and a dab of alcohol . The problem is TALL lazy dark orange flame soots up the glass in an hour. That is not how it is supposed to be running. There is something wrong and I am just trying to get my stove working right. Thank you for taking time to help me.

 

[lakensea]

You're killing all of us that know about these stoves, and if you keep running it maybe yourself!

I think I read somewhere that someone sent you the service manual - it's a must have, yet you do not seem to be using it to troubleshoot. You just seem to be throwing parts at it. There also is no need touch the adjustments, especially to fix your problem - they are for fine tuning, and in 20+ years of owning these stoves I have never touched them. Use your manual and a volt meter, and get them back to factory specs.

Did you check the door tightness and gasket seals as I previously asked? Combustion blower gasket, rear air passage end cap gasket? You've never mentioned anything about your flue set-up - possible blockage?

This is an open flame heating device in your home - fix it right or not at all.

 

[RancherPacker]

Look I came here for help, I am not throwing parts at it other people have suggested everything and every part I have done with the stove . Who do I believe you or them or all of you. No magic mirror to see if I should do as they say or as you say. YES I checked the door tightness and the gasket seals and the dollar bill test, checked rear air passage end cap gasket. My flue set-up is one 45 degree elbow then straight out the wall with a 5' length with end cap. Just did the leaf blower trick also. If there is anything I have not checked it's the combustion blower gasket. I WILL fix it right as soon as I figure out what it is I need to FIX. I know about open flame devices I have heated with wood stoves all my life. I am just new to pellet stoves and having a bit of a time getting this Austroflamm working right. I have hear nothing but good about Austroflamms and I will see this through even if I am starting to hate it LOL

 

[skibumm100]

Look I came here for help, I am not throwing parts at it other people have suggested everything and every part I have done with the stove . Who do I believe you or them or all of you. No magic mirror to see if I should do as they say or as you say. YES I checked the door tightness and the gasket seals and the dollar bill test, checked rear air passage end cap gasket. My flue set-up is one 45 degree elbow then straight out the wall with a 5' length with end cap. Just did the leaf blower trick also. If there is anything I have not checked it's the combustion blower gasket. I WILL fix it right as soon as I figure out what it is I need to FIX. I know about open flame devices I have heated with wood stoves all my life. I am just new to pellet stoves and having a bit of a time getting this Austroflamm working right. I have hear nothing but good about Austroflamms and I will see this through even if I am starting to hate it LOL

OK everybody, let's settle down.

Does you door glass have flat gaskets sealing the glass everywhere except the top? Does the door latch offer some resistance as you latch it?

I had to adjust the trim pots on mine to get the flame right. I don't know if the PO messed with them but it won't hurt to turn your fuel feed all the way down and air flow all the way up to see if it makes a difference. Try it. You won't wreck anything. Refer to the manual on which way to turn them to get the desired result. One of the pots is not intuitive to me and I always need to check which way to turn it. You want max air and min fuel. If it doesn't make a difference then we look somewhere else. You either have air leakage "downstream" of the burn pot, restricted flue passages (probably not that based on what you've said) or the computer board is not commanding the fan to run fast enough. Bottom line, you need more air, less fuel.

 

[RancherPacker]

Thanks, yes that is exactly what I was thinking more air less fuel. I do have the air max and and fuel min. The door glass does have flat gaskets in perfect shape except none at the top.Door latch does have resistance and I did the dollar bill test. The computer board is Joe's rebuilt arrived yesterday. It didn't change anything except maybe lazy flames are not quite as tall now but still dark lazy and sooty. Which fan might not be running fast enough? Exhaust? Thanks for helping. The stove does not go out of control and burn to hot or anything it's just the lazy lazy dark sooty fire. I am only heating a small room at the moment so warm enough.

 

[Flammam]

My stove soots up the glass in the first couple of hours of running. Still heats great so I dont worry about not being able to see the fire. When mine is turned down below 1/4 the flame will be lazy because the eeprom regulates the air and feed at the same time. lower temp setting=lower feed rate and lower air flow.

 

[RancherPacker]

Okay going to crank her up to med-hi and see if the flame gets any better. Like you I don't really mind the glass being sooty its the slow lazy flame that bothers me. And it seems it is way dark orange from what it used to be.

 

[skibumm100]

You could try removing the end cap on the flue to see if that might be causing some back pressure, Sounds like you just need more air, less fuel.....but mostly more combustion air.You have the ash pan installed, right? I can't remember what that area looks like and I'm only about 1500 miles away from mine. I think the burn pot seals to the metal frame under the ash pan. On the pots, fully clockwise on the air, fully counterclockwise on the fuel.....be gentle. The only other thing I can think of is if it is still dirty in the passage above the burn pot where the flue flue gas goes to the front of the top area of the fire box and then goes toward the back of the stove and down around the tubes. I used to blow that area out with a compressor and ash gets hard and caked in there. Hard to reach without a small furnace brush. If that doesn't make it burn any better maybe you got a bum airflow sensor. After that, I'm out of ideas. My insert has a tall flue so I usually have plenty of natural draft plus the combustion fan.

 

[RancherPacker]

ok, those great ideas I will try that. thanks so much

 

[RancherPacker]

Yes there is an ash pan, I took the end cap off, no change. I turned the air clockwise all the way and the pellet feed counter clockwise all the way Gently. I do not have a furnace brush but I dusted, vacuumed and cleaned the passage above the burn pot where the flue gas goes to the front top area of the fire box and goes toward the back of the stove and down around the tubes.

I have noticed that on start up or shut down the flame is perfect. Bright active, short. Says to me the air sensor or the exhaust motor maybe? It's only when the stove is maintaining the fire that it is tall lazy wispy sooty dark orange. Stove does not do the shut down after 44 mins any more, hasn't for several days. I donno what cured that problem but starts up and stays on just the terrible lazy sooty flame now.