OAK condensing

[CtPaul]

Dex you are right.....not sure what I was thinking/reading. I was assuming he wasn't going to put his Oak intake in with the exhaust but never specified that . Well I'm almost done with my second cup of coffee so hopefully my comments will improve from here!!

 

[DexterDay]

Dex you are right.....not sure what I was thinking/reading. I was assuming he wasn't going to put his Oak intake in with the exhaust but never specified that . Well I'm almost done with my second cup of coffee so hopefully my comments will improve from here!!

No worries. Yours will absolutely work.

Dons stove is not a sealed OAK system, so sucking in CO would be bad. It would be bad, even if the intake was a sealed system.

Don, if your gonna do it, just go straight up. Have you thought about exhausting the boiler into the chimney, and using the area where your boiler vent is, for the Selkirk DT? Worth a look?

 

[ARGlock]

Say its 70° in your home and 20° outside (50° difference without taking into consideration of preheating any).

Do you honestly think that a fire (think THOUSANDS of degrees) Will notice a 50° temp?

So your flame went from 1,550° to 1,500°…



Add into the equation that the air is preheated (not even talking DT pipe) on all Stoves a little. Just coming in through the vent, then entering the path to the burn pot receptacle/area. Its prob nowhere near 50° temp differential.

My pennies

Great point DexterDay I would definitely have to agree with you on your thinking!

Thanks,

AR

 

[Don2222]

Don, Because your venting into a chimney, it will be sucking the Exhaust/CO right back in..... A Big NO NO.

It cant be used in a situation like yours Don. It would have to run All the way to the top of the Chimney. So the nozzle could expel the exhaust and suck feesh air.

CtPaul, running your OAK is possible. Because you have a full length liner.

What I was thinking of doing, is that before the pipe goes into the chimney, put the same adapter on the pipe as the one going into the stove. Then attach the flex OAK pipe to it and run it outside!

That way, I do not have to go all the way up the chimney and the air will really get some heat before going into the stove!

 

[UMainah]

There were 2 very rainy cool nights last week where I ran the stove all night on heat level 2. Most of the night it was fine but early in the morning where the moisture was quite intense on the 1st night the fire just about smothered out with the OAK connected.

The second night, I disconnected the OAK and under the same conditions there was no caked ash!

The oak is 2" in diameter and about 15 feet. Yes it is long.

The 4" pellet vent goes up 2' and 2' into the chimney, so I was thinking of using the Selkirk DT for the 4 feet to warm the OAK air after it comes into the house and before it goes into the stove?

Any more comments?

My first thought. Is the diameter of the OAK large enough for a 15' run? Seems like it might be too long a run for just 2" pipe and your stove is struggling to move enough air into it.

 

[UMainah]

What I was thinking of doing, is that before the pipe goes into the chimney, put the same adapter on the pipe as the one going into the stove. Then attach the flex OAK pipe to it and run it outside!

That way, I do not have to go all the way up the chimney and the air will really get some heat before going into the stove!

I'm not entirely sure how the Selkirk works since I've never handled it myself, but wouldn't that mean you'd be trying to attach two male ends of the pipe together?

 

[DexterDay]

I'm not entirely sure how the Selkirk works since I've never handled it myself, but wouldn't that mean you'd be trying to attach two male ends of the pipe together?

Im thinkin the same thing. Its directional pipe (all venting is) and cant put two of the same ends together.

A 15' run is to long for 2". IMO. Plus, you are eliminating the OAK by doing what you said above. At least now your using an OAK. With a 15' run its gotta be preheated some.

 

[Harvey Schneider]

Say its 70° in your home and 20° outside (50° difference without taking into consideration of preheating any).

Do you honestly think that a fire (think THOUSANDS of degrees) Will notice a 50° temp?

So your flame went from 1,550° to 1,500°…

Assuming it is 0 degrees outside it will take approximately 1 BTU to raise the temperature of one cu ft of air by 50 degrees. Assuming the blower moves 60 cfm (I don't think it is that much) it will take 62 BTU to heat the combustion air. At 8200 BTU per pound of pellets it takes 0.007 lbs / minute to heat the air. If the stove ran non stop for 24 hours that would be 0.18 lbs of pellets. I spill more than that refilling the hopper..
I don't think anybody will notice a loss of capacity in the stove or the consumption of pellets.

 

[DexterDay]

I like this guy ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ !!

Harvey, I love your #'s..... Makes my simplistic approach sound terrible

 

[Don2222]

I'm not entirely sure how the Selkirk works since I've never handled it myself, but wouldn't that mean you'd be trying to attach two male ends of the pipe together?

Good point. The piece below is the extra piece I was thinking of buying, but then I would need a Selkirk DT straight pipe with both ends the same.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Assuming it is 0 degrees outside it will take approximately 1 BTU to raise the temperature of one cu ft of air by 50 degrees. Assuming the blower moves 60 cfm (I don't think it is that much) it will take 62 BTU to heat the combustion air. At 8200 BTU per pound of pellets it takes 0.007 lbs / minute to heat the air. If the stove ran non stop for 24 hours that would be 0.18 lbs of pellets. I spill more than that refilling the hopper..
I don't think anybody will notice a loss of capacity in the stove or the consumption of pellets.

Hi Harvey,

Actually combustion blowers can move quite a bit of air (the Bella for example moves up to 100 CFM, several of the larger BTU units also top out over 100 CFM) Now while you are slip sliding with the EE version of your Picket try this as well.

When you draw that same amount of air from inside the house you are removing all ready heated air and banishing it to the outside and requiring the same amount of cold air from the outside to be drawn into the house that then must be heated.

Further it might not be the case that colder air has a negative effect on the flame's temperature (cold air is generally denser and more oxygen rich) then you have to figure out what the heat exchanger makes of any change in the flame temperature.

It is well known what poor air flow through the burn pot does to things and frequently inside air isn't optimal even when there is a sufficient volume.

An exhaustive search through reports done at the national labs might answer the question (pellet units have been tested by them for various reasons).

 

[St_Earl]

Assuming it is 0 degrees outside it will take approximately 1 BTU to raise the temperature of one cu ft of air by 50 degrees. Assuming the blower moves 60 cfm (I don't think it is that much) it will take 62 BTU to heat the combustion air. At 8200 BTU per pound of pellets it takes 0.007 lbs / minute to heat the air. If the stove ran non stop for 24 hours that would be 0.18 lbs of pellets. I spill more than that refilling the hopper..
I don't think anybody will notice a loss of capacity in the stove or the consumption of pellets.

then add the amount of pellets needed to make up for cold air infiltration through the house caused by a non oaked stove sucking in combustion air from any and all paths. and then the amount of pellets used to heat the air (that the stove has already heated once) which the stove is then sucking back in for combustion and blowing out the stack.

 

[heat seeker]

It's deja vu all over again !

 

[St_Earl]

It's deja vu all over again !

oakception.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

It's deja vu all over again !

You know it