Non insulated liner?

[begreen]

Insulating the liner will keep it cleaner

Unfortunately given the size of the flu (6”) anything more than just the stainless liner won’t fit unless we get an oval. Pricing that out today but I read it’s significantly more expensive.

This is not so, there are solutions. It's why oval liners are sold or fabricated on site if the installer has the proper equipment. There is also a prefabricated, insulated liner called DuraLiner that is made for this type of installation. Its OD is 4 5/8" x 7 5/8" IIRC.

 

[retlaw]

I believe NFPA 211 is the one to look at for fire safety.

Anyway, bholler has the certifications. begreen is uptodate too.
I've just learned some things.

Thanks! I will see if I can find that one.

 

[JamesH]

Spoke with another company today who said even an oval insulated liner won’t fit and the only option is to chop out the clay liner for an additional 4k.

So either my husband can do that himself (he’s in construction we just have no time for these larger projects right now) or we let go of the wood dream and move on to a pellet stove which can accommodate an insulated liner easily.

I appreciate each of you very much, this information is so valuable to me! Thank you for helping to keep my kiddos safe.

 

[bholler]

No. The example in "the code" shows an exterior masonry chimney and specifically points to combustible trim 8" from the liner.
However, this does not apply to interior trim.
Maybe Im looking at the wrong code? 2018 International Residential Code.

Yes trim can touch the corners of the chimney. You can usually flex vinyl just channel enough to see if there is clearance to the wall behind.

 

[begreen]

This can be done DIY using DuraLiner. It's a system that has all the parts needed. They make it in oval and round 6" pipe. Just be sure that the chimney is fully cleaned first and that stainless steel pop-rivet are used to join the sections.

DuraLiner® | Duravent

Consistently the first to market with new innovations in venting systems, DuraVent has captured a leadership position in emerging markets.

duravent.com

 

[retlaw]

On top of being required by code and making the installation safer, insulated liners also perform better, you will have better draft and you will produce less creosote (the substance that causes chimney fires) with an insulated liner. On top of all that, my opinion is peace of mind is priceless.

I couldnt agree more that an insulated chimney is the best for safety and operation! But let's be careful, or at least specific, with "required by code". Certain conditions, not all, WILL make an insulated liner a requirement.

 

[kborndale]

I couldnt agree more that an insulated chimney is the best for safety and operation! But let's be careful, or at least specific, with "required by code". Certain conditions, not all, WILL make an insulated liner a requirement.

As I said in my first post in this thread, in most instances it is required by code. It is rare that a masonry chimney is built with the proper clearances.

 

[bholler]

I couldnt agree more that an insulated chimney is the best for safety and operation! But let's be careful, or at least specific, with "required by code". Certain conditions, not all, WILL make an insulated liner a requirement.

Well if you can show me a liner system that has been tested to meet ul-1777 for use with wood without insulation i would agree. But I talk to lots of manufacturers and have yet to find one that has tested their liner without insulation. And if it hasn't been tested in that configuration to that standard it can't meet the listing and can't meet code.
So while I agree technically there could be instances where insulation is not required by code. In reality those conditions simply don't exist.

 

[Wood Rat]

I have 12 feet of selkirk 6" stovepipe to install in an exposed through the wall set up on my small cabin and I'm wondering if I should wrap the last 4 feet of pipe with some form of insulation to help maintain flue temperature to the cap? I've seen others wrap the last section of pipe and wonder if it works in an exposed set up. Thoughts? Insulation suggestions? Perhaps there's a self stick insulation that I can wrap the last section with before install. Or, it might not be necessary, idk, thus the question. I'm not concerned with how it might look, more so if it might help reduce creosote buildup?

 

[kborndale]

Stovepipe can not run thru the wall, I'm assuming you mean class A?

 

[Wood Rat]

Yes

Stovepipe can not run thru the wall, I'm assuming you mean class A?

Class A sorry.

 

[stoveliker]

I'm not sure what is needed in your location, but class A is already insulated.
I have never seen added insulation to class A. But maybe that's something in the cold North?

 

[jimmyjabjames]

i'm here to try to find answers about liner insulation as well.. the owner/mason of a reputable, WETT Certified local company told me that insulation isn't required, and that it's "usually only a US thing" (i'm in NS, Canada). i saw a comment from a Nova Scotian mason on another Hearth.com forum that insulation is used/recommended by him. Currently i have a brick chimney with a clay liner (8x8). The local guy said the liner (6" ICC rigid liner) wouldn't fit inside the clay liner, so it'll have to be busted out. Should I push for the insulation?

 

[bholler]

i'm here to try to find answers about liner insulation as well.. the owner/mason of a reputable, WETT Certified local company told me that insulation isn't required, and that it's "usually only a US thing" (i'm in NS, Canada). i saw a comment from a Nova Scotian mason on another Hearth.com forum that insulation is used/recommended by him. Currently i have a brick chimney with a clay liner (8x8). The local guy said the liner (6" ICC rigid liner) wouldn't fit inside the clay liner, so it'll have to be busted out. Should I push for the insulation?

Yes you absolutely should