How tall is the chimney? What size is the liner is it insulated? Does opening a basement window or door fix the problem? What temp is the box at when you shut down the air? Will it burn with the air wide open? Will it die down on its own with the door open?
No Draft
- Thread starter Cockshutt
- Start date
-
Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.
We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.
We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
- Status
Draft is failing. A complete description of the chimney would be helpful. That is the engine of the stove. What is its height? Does it have a stainless liner sized for the stove or clay tiles? If clay tiled, what is the ID of the chimney?
The chimney is, I believe 19' extending 3'-4' above the peak of the roof. It is masonry with a new 6" uninsulated stainless liner. New flashing. New cap. New tee. New thimble.
Interesting.....I found that trying to start my Osburn 2200 (cold) with the kitchen hood exhaust fan running was a recipe for smoke city!! However, once my draft is established, it's rock solid. It's strange that your stove peters out after 20 minutes of use. It SHOULD be hitting it's stride about then.
The basement install is not helping. Also, if the wood is not fully seasoned the fire will go out with insufficient draft.
I suggest the temperature difference between in and out is not enough for good draft to be established
![[Hearth.com] No Draft](/talk/data/attachments/140/140161-6866c482be7782ff9dcd269561c6aaf3.jpg?hash=ruu7bb01Kd)
![[Hearth.com] No Draft](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/140/140162-242d0f9ab37b2e5754fa349b5adb750d.jpg?hash=KhHju7PMsS "[Hearth.com] No Draft")
At what setting is the air control? Are you sure the wood is dry? Maybe it has not been stored protected from rain at the lumber yard?
To address the smoke spillage, try the following. Before opening the door to reload (you shouldn't be opening it for any other reason), open the air fully for a few seconds. Crack the door for a second or two before slowly opening it more. If smoke is still coming out of the door, slowly open a basement door or window and see what happens.
Lastly, as others have said, this is the worst possible weather for draft, when outside temperatures drop below 10C, you'll see a big improvement, above that temperature, you really won't want to run that stove hard anyway.
I would be reluctant to make any expensive modifications such as an OAK, or extending the chimney, until you have seen how it burns when it's colder outside.
TE
Lastly, as others have said, this is the worst possible weather for draft, when outside temperatures drop below 10C, you'll see a big improvement, above that temperature, you really won't want to run that stove hard anyway.
I would be reluctant to make any expensive modifications such as an OAK, or extending the chimney, until you have seen how it burns when it's colder outside.
TE
Heatsource
Minister of Fire
removing the knock out:
take a closer look at the stove pedestal, and tell me why removing the knock out would improve the stoves draft./...
Osburn only wants the knock out removed if installing the OAK, you can check the manual or call them directly if you want..
take a closer look at the stove pedestal, and tell me why removing the knock out would improve the stoves draft./...
Osburn only wants the knock out removed if installing the OAK, you can check the manual or call them directly if you want..
8ball
New Member
Sir,please tell us how and where does this model Osborn normaly get it's air from if an OAK is not being used
And then explain what changes in the stove when the knock out is opened and an OAK is installed
Lastly I am very familiar with Regency stoves and this brand requires the knock out to be opened with or without an OAK
At first blush it seems to be counter-intuitive to have a "knock out" that is "required".
Step one to install the fresh air intake kit (from the manual).
1.)
Remove the knock-out on the
pedestal back panel with cutting
pliers.
The verbiage clearly supports the idea that it is NOT required to remove the knock out unless the fresh air intake kit is going to be used.
Step one to install the fresh air intake kit (from the manual).
1.)
Remove the knock-out on the
pedestal back panel with cutting
pliers.
The verbiage clearly supports the idea that it is NOT required to remove the knock out unless the fresh air intake kit is going to be used.
Last edited:
My 24 foot exterior insulated 6" liner drafts before the fire is even lit, even on a 60 degree day.
My 16 foot exterior insulated 6" liner puffs smoke back in the house in any weather until the firebox gets good and hot.
Liner length is a big deal.
My 16 foot exterior insulated 6" liner puffs smoke back in the house in any weather until the firebox gets good and hot.
Liner length is a big deal.
Well, I'm new to woodstoves, I was offered a suggestion by two people. I removed the knockout and the woodstove was then able to maintain a fire. 6hrs. I understand the intent of the knockout is for the OAK but removing the plate it has apparently improved the flow of combustion air. As far as the draft control- it has been wide open the whole time. The construction cutoffs are dry my cordwood is not. Yet.
What wood did you burn in the pic above? Because for the air fully open that looks pretty abysmal. It is even weirder that you seem to get some secondaries. Maybe it's the stove but mine would have no secondaries at that stage with the air fully open. How does the wood burn with the door open? Do you see a lot of smoke; are the pieces "hissing"? Have you started a fire and after approx. 15 min with the door still open taken a look outside at your chimney whether smoke is coming out of it? (Have your wife stay with the stove.)
It sure does, but if knocking out the panel is required for an OAK, and there is no mention of closing the original air source, why would air 'bother' to use the OAK if there already was an open air supply? Perhaps the knockout is just kept in place to keep dirt/mice etc. out during manufacturing/storage? Perhaps there are two available knockouts, one for oak, one for inside air?
TE
Theoretically if there is a negative pressure issue the "least resistance" would be getting air through the OAK.
Heatsource
Minister of Fire
the pedestal is where the air comes from, the front and back are not air tight. feel free to drop by our shop sometime and i'd be happy to show you in person
the oak just dumps air into the pedestal, and it is never sealed air tight.
you may well experience cold air infiltration at all times when the oak is used because the pedestal is not air tight..
8ball
New Member
Thank you. It seems the Osburn is designed like the Regency nothing is very tight around the pedistal to stove joint. The OP has said his stove is now working after opening the knock out which is what I suggested and you told us no.
If he has to run it wide open all the time he is not near experiencing the heat potential of the stove. It's either poor draft from too mild weather and possible negative pressure, or poor wood. Or both.
Heatsource
Minister of Fire
he actually said it was still smoking
I phoned sbi and their tech told me the knock out should only be removed if the oak was installed.
"Ok... Sorry A1, my installer told me to remove the knockout. It did nothing to stop the spillage"
I'm not looking for an argument, was just trying to be helpful
i'm out, good luck with the smokey stove OP
Grisu, at that point I believe there was a 10" 2"x4", 2 10" 1"x 3"s and a 4" maple split. The softwood was dry. The maple was in front of my dehumidifier for five days. The draft was wide open. There was smoke coming out of the chimney. The door could be cracked with no smoke spillage. But even opening very slowly from there would allow a lot of smoke to escape. Out of curiosity could it be the cap?
- Status
Similar threads
