Newbie Questions!

[Squisher]

I see you're in Canada and the direct vent option you showed a manual picture of is not approved up here.

 

[fishing_ninja]

I see you're in Canada and the direct vent option you showed a manual picture of is not approved up here.

Thank you, that's what I was looking for.
Does that mean I won't be able to make an alcove and vent out the existing chimney with a rear exhaust stove aswell.

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[fishing_ninja]

Just because it was not used does not mean the weather has not gotten to it or that it was installed properly to begin with. We see way to many that were not installed with proper clearances to begin with. How did you inspect it? Did you pull the chase cover and look down the chase to look for proper clearances did you pull the top and bottom vent covers and check for deterioration?

I have inspected everything I can see and I see no signs of corrosion or deterioration. No leaks around the chimney pipe that I can see.

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[bholler]

I have inspected everything I can see and I see no signs of corrosion or deterioration. No leaks around the chimney pipe that I can see.

ok that is good how about proper installation? Did you check for that? I am not pushing this issue to be a pita. I have just seen way to many that did not meet the installation requirements and if you will now be running a stove through it which will burn at higher temps for much longer periods of time it can be a real serious safety issue.

 

[Squisher]

If you run through the ZC fireplace to that existing chimney you will need a full flue liner top to bottom as per ULC S635.

If you're ripping the existing factory built fireplace(ZC fireplace)out. Then you are I believe somewhat starting from scratch. And you may be able to re-use the class a chimney pipe you have if it's in good shape and appropriately sized, proper clearances, etc etc.

 

[fishing_ninja]

ok that is good how about proper installation? Did you check for that? I am not pushing this issue to be a pita. I have just seen way to many that did not meet the installation requirements and if you will now be running a stove through it which will burn at higher temps for much longer periods of time it can be a real serious safety issue.

Not being a pita at all . I appreciate the concern. Safety is #1 I will check dimensions shortly.
I

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[Squisher]

The reason you will need a full liner if you go through the existing fireplace is because direct connect installs aren't allowed and if venting through a existing ZC fireplace you are not allowed to modify it except for exterior trim pieces and removing the damper to accept a liner.

 

[fishing_ninja]

The reason you will need a full liner if you go through the existing fireplace is because direct connect installs aren't allowed and if venting through a existing ZC fireplace you are not allowed to modify it except for exterior trim pieces and removing the damper to accept a liner.

Thank you! This is all info I don't have you guys are awsome!!
Either way I need a new fireplace so I'm gonna need to figure something out.
If I were to run a liner and connect it to that stove would it be o.k?
I can run a liner if I have to, if that makes the most sense and is the safest option.
What's does 25' of liner cost roughly?Canadian dollars [emoji6]

I can handle a complete removal aswell that's not a problem. I have lots of time!

 

[Squisher]

I think it's doubtful that it would be worth it to install that stove through the ZC fireplace or that it would be allowed. You would need to secure the full manual for that stove and ZC and see if the manufacturers approve it for installation into the factory built fireplace. If it is, there should be specific instructions in regards to how.

A little copy pasta for you.

Can I install my wood insert into an existing factory-built, zero-clearance fireplace?
It is possible to install a wood insert into an existing factory-built zero-clearance fireplace. However, there currently exists no UL or ULC standard specific to that type of installation. The first thing that must be verified is that the factory-built zero clearance fireplace is listed (it must be certified by a competent certification body such as Omni or Warnock Hersey). It must be suitable for use with solid fuel and nothing in the owner's manual must specifically prohibit the installation of a fireplace insert. When in doubt, check with the fireplace manufacturer. The installation of the zero-clearance fireplace MUST be thoroughly inspected by a professional in order to ensure that it still meets the manufacturer's specs and code conformity. The chimney must be of at least 1" (25 mm) larger in diameter to accommodate a required continuous stainless steel liner running from the flue collar to the top of the chimney termination. Never remove parts that serve to insulate the zero-clearance fireplace from combustible material. Only readily detachable parts that are easily replaced, such as damper parts, screens, and doors, are to be removed from the fireplace. These parts must be stored nearby and available for retrofit if the insert is ever removed. Removal of any parts which render the fireplace unfit for use with solid fuel requires the fireplace to be permanently labeled by the installer as being no longer suitable for solid fuel until the removed parts are replaced and the fireplace is restored to its original certified condition. Furthermore, any air vents, grilles, or louvers that serve to create an air circulation pattern around and outside the zero-clearance fireplace shall never be removed.

25' of flex liner is going to run you about $370cdn on the cheap end to $600 plus for a high end liner. That's rough retail pricing on the liner alone, there are flex and rigid liners. Also you're going to need a toplate and storm collar and cap as well as some form of appliance adapter/piping on the bottom.

 

[Squisher]

Thx. The label says it right up front - install in masonry fireplace only

Looking back, it looks like your last question has already been covered early on.

 

[fishing_ninja]

So an install through the ZC is probably not an option.
So if I remove it completely, what must be done to the opening to have it suitable for a free standing or is that even an option?

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[fishing_ninja]

Looking back, it looks like your last question has already been covered early on.

That was for a different stove.
Scrapped that idea allready.

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[fishing_ninja]

I'm not set on any stove in particular. Just need some options.

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[Squisher]

Ahh. I see. So first thing. You would want to confirm with the manufacturer of the existing ZC that installing a insert into it isn't prohibited.

 

[Squisher]

So an install through the ZC is probably not an option.
So if I remove it completely, what must be done to the opening to have it suitable for a free standing or is that even an option?

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It's very possible that an insert will not be allowed in the ZC fireplace. Look in the manual to see. If that is the case then another option would be to put a rear vent stove in front, extend the hearth and hook it up to a full liner up the ZC chimney.

 

[begreen]

If you run through the ZC fireplace to that existing chimney you will need a full flue liner top to bottom as per ULC S635.

If you're ripping the existing factory built fireplace(ZC fireplace)out. Then you are I believe somewhat starting from scratch. And you may be able to re-use the class a chimney pipe you have if it's in good shape and appropriately sized, proper clearances, etc etc.

It looks like the chimney pipe may be 7" class A HT. Unfortunately the 24" high opening is the controlling factor for a rear-vent wood stove there.